My 92 YJ OM617 swap
 

I'll start off by saying a bit about my rig. I started out with a 92 YJ originally with a 4cyl. I bought it without the engine/trans/t-case.
My Old truck was an 86 Toyota Pickup. It was on the road up until last year, and I was planning on swapping the 617 into that. But plans change, and I wanted something that was a bit more road legal.

I started by swapping over my Toyota axles, sprung over and I used the 5 speed and Transfer case from the Toyota as well. The adapter is from 4x4labs.com I got one from the first run that Luke made.
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The Engine is in now. But I'm still stuck on a few bits

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I still need to figure out the intake, all of the electrical, and the vacuum tubes.
I don't know what this is either? do I need it? can I remove it?
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what the easiest way to shut down the engine? I bought the engine already pulled, so I don't have a downer car to pick parts off of. And I've read things from syringes to vacuum actuators

that is the cruise control. I have yet to find the answers for the other ?'s. I am just starting to put my 0m617 into a 92 cherokee. I'm keeping enitre jeep drivetrain(ax-15), and using the adpter kit form Koch enterprises.

to shut it down you need a 12v normally open sol valve hook that up to the factory shutoff and plumb it is so that when you shut off the key the sol goes to its de-energized state and lets vacuum go to shutoff if you can find an overboost valve that is what most of us are using

thanks guys,
so I need to find me a 12V sol valve. Shouldn't be too hard.

Also, I used the stock fuel take/pump. and Didn't do change anything. Do I need to do anything to the stock return line? and Can I run the stock pump in the tank?

I run elec lift pumps on all I have so I think it will be ok I am going to do it on my s10 the screen in the tank might be a problem but that is all I can think of

now the solenoid it has to be normally open you want it so that when energized the ports are blocked and when de- energized the ports are open then hook it up in your vac circuit and you are good to go

fuel lines
 

for my fuel lines I drilled holes and ran 2 steel lines into the tank next to the sending unit both reaching to the bottom i only kept the sending unit for the fuel gauge sender . the stock pump is for efi which runs above 40-50psi and the stock mecanical lift pump spikes around 15psi so i pulled the fuse for the f/p. also for a return ive heard from sevral people not to run it just to the top of the tank. run the steel line reaching to the bottom so it is dumping at the bottom . without running it to the bottom the fuel gets airated from just dumping back into the tank. and can cause issuses. we had problems with it on my friends fummins

so what the problem with the efi pump? just too much pressure?

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also, I've been looking for a wiring diagram for the glow plug relay and I cant seem to find one that shows what pins do what. Only wire colors, and I'm without the harness for that side of the relay. anyone have a good pick of what pin each wire connects to?

:humm:I would think it would be too much pressure but never tried it to find out. maybe someone else has tried and would have insight on how it worked for them.

you could put on a fuel pressure regulator you only need about 7-10 psi

so....... I'm trying to get the motor started. and I can't even get it to budge, not even a bit. Tried breaker bar on the crank and rocking the Jeep in gear, and it wont budge.
I had it moving before I had the trans and t-case on, not a lot, about 45* I'd say just to make sure it was still good. Now nothing.

Any suggestion?
or should I start looking for a new motor? :argh::argh::dang:

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also, if I found a Non-Turbo 617 can I swap the turbo intake onto the engine?