Cherokee OM617 steering questions
 

Hey FTE and some of you others who have successfully completed this repower. How much of a drop pitman arm and associated trackbar drop bracket are needed to clear the OM617 front oil sump with the stock steering setup? Could I use this Trackbar Drop Bracket and Drop Pitman Arm without adding a lift? It says the new parts are designed for 5" to 6" of lift. Can I lower these steering componets without adding the lift and everything still work? From my readings, it appears the key to avoiding bump steer is for the attachment height of the drag link to the pitman arm to be the same height as the attachment point of the track bar to the track bar bracket? If so, it appears there may be a ready bolt on solution that appears to have been custom work on most all the repowers I've seen?

What would happen if I re-shaped the track bar to avoid the oil sump but kept the same frame attachment height?

Is there an easy way to modify the steering such that the tie rod goes from wheel to wheel instead of the tie rod attaching to the drag link itself? Same as the older models used to do it?

On my set up I used a different steering gear box with a longer pitmam shaft to get the tie rod lower, it also allowed for more room for the radiator. I re-shaped my trac-bar as well and relocated the frame mount to a lower position. I also changed the steering to a "crossover" style, not only did it help with clearance but I belive it is better with a solid axle in front. The key is to keep the trac bar and steering rod as parallel as possible. You will also have to relocate the stablizer shock. I did everything myself so I don't know what kits will work, you may have to just do the trial and error method most of us swappers do to get the desired results. Alot depends on where the motor ends up and how the ride hight ends up, I used the stiff Benz springs so I probbably didn't have to get it so high, but better safe than sorry. If your Jeep has worn bushings up front, it will death wobble after the lift, so better to just replace them while you have everything appart, I used the poly ones and they were super easy to swap. I also lowered the frame mount on the lower controll arm, it made it ride alot smother after the lift.

FTE - thanks for the info. I've read your build thread several times with how you utilized the F-150 gear box to get the pitman arm lower. While a drop pitman arm is pretty pricey, would it not accomplish the same as your F-150 gearbox? I didn't see in your build thread where you re-shaped the trackbar. Did you just heat it up good and bend it to the desired shape? Do you think its safe to cut it and splice in some additional length if needed or would it be smarter to make the track bar drop bracket such that the mounting point is a little farther inside the frame to fit the length of the newly shaped trackbar? Also, is it necessary to lower the track bar mounting point if you are re-shaping the track bar?

What did you do to the passenger side hub to be able to mount both the drag link and tie rod in order to get the 2 wheels tied together? Did you utilize another model Jeep parts or something custom?

Based on your thread, I saved the MB springs for any lift requirements. Are you happy with the ride they provide in your Cherokee or do you think there're too stiff?

I used two trac bars and cut and spliced them together to get the desired shape/length. I also used two sets of steering links and mixed & matched and welded together to grt the desired set up. Every splice was butt welded,and sleaved to maintain strength(most everything I do is way over engineered) I used the F150 box to accomplish two goals, clear the pan and gain more room for the radiator. My Jeep is an early one with the old style rad, so I planed on using the Benz rad, it needed more side room. My box sits on top of the frame rail instead of beside. I didn't care for the drop pitman arm, too much leverage and it didn't get it far enough down for me anyways. I didn't do any mods to the pass side hub, I just re-aranged the stock tie rods to get the desired results. BTW I have NO bump steer and NO death wobble and it steers and drives perfict on all raods and surfaces. The Benz springs are a little stiff but not too bad for a Jeep with a 3in lift and heavy motor. Mine came out of a 300sd so they are a little stiffer than the 300d's. I had the v6 in the jeep so those springs were way too weak even with spacers, not sure if 4.0 springs with spacers would be ok. I try and use what I have, hate buying more crap.

I'm following you on everything except the above. I'm familiar with the older style solid front axle steering setup where the tie rod runs between the 2 hubs and the drag link runs from the pitman arm to the passenger hub. I didn't see a picture in your build thread such that I could determine how you accomplished it. What exactly is going on at the passenger hub with the tie rod and drag link? I like the logic of your setup better than the stock setup with the tie rod intersecting the drag link.

I'm with you on not buying stuff when I can recycle something I already have. I'd have to buy an F-150 steering box if I went that route. I follow your logic on the leverage of the drop pitman arm. If a drop pitman arm would work with the Jeep gearbox in its current position that would make it a much simplier?

In my case, the drop arm did not get the desired clearance with the Jeep box. As for the steering link, I used the portion of the stock link for the stablizer shock on that end, like I said I did ALOT of mix & match, so I'm not sure what I did exactly, but the f150 is similar.

How many inches of drop was the pitman arm that didn't work for your application?

The longest drop arm they make wasn't enough to clear my set-up, 5 or 6 in I think.