Yeah, but if you mount it that way it won't do anything - the pitman arm will be in about the same position. You're going to have to make a mount to put the horizontal part of the box beside the rail just like the stock unit in order for the pitman arm to be lower and clear the oil pan...

Nope! I beg to differ.You will see when I get it all finished. I had to go to work so I need more time to finish, will post pics. The steering rods are under the pan with lots of clearance throughout the suspension travel. All that is done, just finishing up the track bar.

Looking forward to seeing it....

P/S box swap
 

So here are some pics of the p/s box upgrade

OK, so now I see. You didn't mount it with the box inside the rail, BUT you didn't mount it with all of the original bolts through the "frame" horn like the stock setup either.

You kind of compromised and made a dropped mount below the frame for a couple of the bolts and only put one mounting bolt through the frame.

Looks like you ended up with about 3" of pitman arm drop. From the second picture (with the oil pan in the background) it looks like that will be enough to get you the clearance you need?

Looks nice and strong too - the braces are a nice touch.

Yea, the box is also farther back than the stock location to give more room for the radiator and oil cooler. I'll get some pics of the tie rods and trac bar installed as soon as I finish with the bump stops and crossmember and get it all back together for the last time (hopefully!) I also need to make drop brackets for the sway bar.

Well I finally finished the steering overhaul.

NICE! Not to be a gloom and doomer, but you may find that you have a bit of an issue with what is known as "bump-steer".

It is a common issue with Cherokees when the track-bar and steering drag link are not pretty close to being parallel. When you hit a bump that compresses the front suspension, as everything moves up and back down the track-bar and drag-link swing through different arcs and the positions of their ends (relative to the steering box) changes. This can result in the front wheels getting pushed (steered) a few degrees to one side and back. Hence the name "bump-steer".

It can make the vehicle feel kind of "squirrely" when you hit a bump (like the expansion joints at each end of a bridge) at high speed.

IF you find that you have that problem (and with the frame end of the track-bar 3"-4" higher than where the drag link connects to the pitman arm, I'd say the odds are about 2 to 1 that you will) there is a fairly simple solution. Fabricate a new track-bar bracket that drops the frame end of the track-bar down until it is nearly parallel with the drag link, and modify the track-bar (take the bend out of it and make it straight), and that will solve the problem - guaranteed.

I currently own 3 Cherokees and just scrapped a 4th one. Of the 4, 3 are/were lifted (and the 4th one will be too once I finish my diesel swap), and I've seen this issue MANY times. Not just on my own rigs but on lifted Cherokees owned by others as well.

Nice clean looking fab work though. If you end up with bump-steer, I'm sure you will be able to make the necessary modifications with no trouble...

Looking good!!! Next time i'm at the pick-a-part, i'm gonna get me a Ford steering box!!!!

John

Maybe you haven't noticed but the steering looks nothing like a factory cherokee now! I fixed the "bump steer" with the tie rod set up being more like a full sized 4x4, ie the right side and left side are now conected with one solid tie rod, unlike the scissor effect of the stock set-up.Yes the track bar mounts are not on the same plane but you would have to hit some HUGE bumps to get any squirlly steering. The factory setup sucked because the toe was constantly changing(bump steer) when the suspension traveled normally, now the toe stays set reguardless of the suspension travel. I have used this setup before with no issues, durring normal driving the axle side to side movement is minimal and not even detectable from the drivers seat.

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Thanks John. Yea the box worked out real nice, plus it gives me more room for the radiator. Did you use a 4.0 rad? I am using the benz one but it gives me the option of using an aftermarket crossflow aluminum(I have one for my mustang and it will fit perfect now). Although I can't use the stock benz p/s pump because the bracket hits the p/s box, I could have cut off some of the lower portion of it (the ac mounting points) but it just took up way too much room, so I am using a p/s pump with a remote resevoir mounted low and my a/c pump will mount above. Working on all those mounts now. Are you thinking about hooking your a/c up? How are you progressing?

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BTW Cheeper Jeeper, as I recall you told me the f150 box would'nt work either, but as you can see it turned out as I had planed. If you have any doubt about my fabrication skills, I suggest you take a look at my thread "Rolling Vengence" in the Ag and Lawn equiptment section. I may not know as much as you, but I tend to hold my criticism untill I have all the facts. Then again I could be wrong about this too! Just sayin.

I used the 4.0 radiator. I cut out the radiator support to make room for it. I mounted the stock Benz electric fan behind the radiator and removed the clutch fan from the engine. I was thinking of hooking the AC up, but was going to try and mount the AC compressor above the power steering pump (where the cruise control pod used to be) I'm not sure if there is room or not. I got the trans/transfer case back in. Started staring at the shift linkages. I may take the floor shifter and linkages out of a Blazer to make it easier. Tonight i'm going to run the cooling lines for the trans and play with the shift linkage for the transfer case. Looks like you're getting close!!!! Keep up the good work.

John

No, I didn't notice that you had replaced the original "inverted Y" steering setup with an "inverted T" setup. The picture is dark enough that I didn't see it until you pointed it out and I was actually looking for it. And you are 100% correct, that type of setup doesn't have the bump steer issue of the setup that comes stock on a Cherokee.

Actually, what I said was that if you bolted the Ford box through the frame rail, putting its 3 mounting bolts where the stock steering box bolts were (more or less), it wouldn't lower the pitman arm enough to provide the clearance you needed. And you proved that to be correct by mounting it with 2 of the 3 bolts a couple of inches belowthe frame rail - in order to lower the pitman arm enough to clear the oil pan.

Dude, re-read my posts. I have done nothing but compliment your fab skills, and try to make helpful suggestions on anything I see that might be a potential problem (just in case you might have overlooked something). If those kinds of suggestions and comments (as opposed to criticisms) aren't welcome, then fine, I'll just keep my comments to myself!

I have the t-case shifter and linkage from the s10, it bolts on top of the trans tail housing.I'm not sure but I think it is right where the e-brake ass is. It might be possible to use a combo of the two. How did your drivelines work out? I am looking at putting the a/c compressor in the same location, but I removed all the factory brackets so I'll have more room. Looking foreward to you getting yours on the road!

Now that the trans and case are where they are going to be, I need to measure the front and rear driveshaft length. Then I can go to LKQ and measure a S10 front and rear shaft. Hopefully they will work!!!! I am anxious to get it back on the road, I enjoyed it for the short time I had it going!!!!


John

Well I finally got all the brackets&mounts for the p/s pump and a/c. I also lowered the front crossmember to make room for a larger rad. I still have to relocate the oil cooler, plus still trying to decied between the benz rad or an aftermarket alum. crossflow. Spending WAY to much time on all the little crap!

Looking good!!!!

WOW! So you're going to have AC and everything! The 84 I'm doing my swap with didn't come with it, and even though the 4.3L motor did, I'm not ambitious enough to try to get working AC out of the deal too...

Nice work.

Thanks! I figured I might as well go ahead and fab up the a/c mounts now while the front end is off, but it won't be until later when it gets hoses, condenser, ect. I needed to fab the mounting bracket anyway for the fuel filter and dipstick tube bracket. All that was part of the stock p/s mount. I got the oil cooler mounted (inside the bumper, will cut out for airflow) and extended the flex hose with new 5 BUCKS A FOOT!!! O well it looks factory. I'll get pics up when done.

Hey FTE, I just noticed for the first time that you're in Vancouver WA! My best buddy lives in BattleGround, and one of the first short road trips I'll be taking in my 4.3 Cherokee will probably be to his house. We'll have to get our two projects together and compare...

That would be cool! I hope to get it done before too long, how are you coming along?

I was hoping to have it done by the first of May, but after the torque converter setback (1 week delay) I'm actually thinking I should shoot for the first of June...

As the saying goes " It will take longer than you think and cost more than you think" ! I am at least 2mo behind of where I thought I'd be!

Oil cooler
 

Finally finished the oil cooler, here's pics. Almost done with the radiator, back to work, so it'll sit for a while.

Clever idea putting it in the bumper. Are you gonna put a screen or expanded metal or a grill or somthing over it to protect it from rocks and road debris?

Yea, I already did but the pic doesn't show it very well. I used heavy screen, like the stuf they use in fireplace sceens, formed it to the contour of the bumper then installed it to the inside of the bumper before installing the cooler. By lowering the front crossmember, allowed free air flow through the cooler and radiator.

I kinda thought the cooling fin pattern of that cooler looked a little bit dense. Know what I think would look really cool? Make grill inserts out of the same material so that it matches...

A little this & that
 

Here's a little update, got alot of the little pesky this and that finished. Most of the under the hood stuff done, made a fan shroud, cold air intake, put the front end back together. All I have left is the exhaust, drivelines, lift the rear, clean the fuel tank, wire up the trans.

Good work!:tu:
Thats one of the best air filter locations I have seen so far!
Aren't you afraid of rain water getting into it?

Looking good!!! Your paint is the same color as mine, but mine has the wood grain vinyl.
What type of radiator did you use? It looks like it fits nicely.

John

Ditto. Here in the great NorthWET where it rains an average of 190-200 days a year, I'd be afraid of that filter getting soaked! Are you planning on putting any kind of shroud or splash guard around/in front of it?

Nice looking fan shroud BTW...

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Is yours one of the Wagoneer models with 4 smaller headlights instead of 2 larger ones? Or is it maybe a BriarWood model? Both of those were "upscale" trim levels that came it the "wood-look" exterior trim. They are a lot more rare than the Laredo or the plane-jane base models...

Thanks! Once I get it all sorted out I plan on putting a "splash" shield in front of the filter. By the time I actually get it all finished and insured for the road it will be July, so usually no rain for a few months. Plus the set-up is designed so the air has to go up before heading to the turbo, hopefully preventing any water from getting down there. I might also box the filter completely from the engine compartment, but hat will be later also, due to the fact that I am spending WAY too much time on this stuff and I want to get it on the road as soon as I can, knowing full well there will be "bugs" to be worked out!

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Thanks John, yea my body and paint are fairly nice, just a few "wows" in the pass doors that I think I can massage out. The int. is a little worse for wear, I picked up a pair of late model front seats late 90s I think, so that helps but the headliner is trash so I will have to fix that. I used the benz rad. It took some creative work to make it fit, I had to take off the a/c compressor to clear the top hose, no biggie cause I wasn't going to get the a/c sorted out until next summer anyway but all the brackets are there. Also with this rad I didn't have any room for the condenser, so my plan is to get a custom rad later so all the a/c stuff will fit and retain the motor driven fan. I didn't want to spend the money now, I guess I'm too cheep. My plan was to use as much as I already had on hand, get it on the road, sort it all out then fine tune so I dont waste too much money, I have more time than money!

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Thanks! I had some aluminum diamond plate left over from another project so I figured it would be good to have a shroud due to the fact that the rad is a little farther away from the fan due to the necessary fitment issues. The benz shroud would't even come close! I thought about converting it to the later style hood latch system, would have solved some fitment issues, but later with the custom rad it won't.

I figured you probably already had something in mind, since the rest of the build has been so well thought out and executed... Sounds like you and I are on about the same schedule - though you appear to be a bit farther along than me. How about a little motivational wager? Something like whoever finishes first drives his rig to the other guy's location and then the "loser" buys the "winner" dinner? A nice dinner (not Space Needle nice, but not Denny's either).

You up for it?

I'm in!! I still have nightmares about something seriously going wrong and I have to start over! So we will see. I don't know how many times I have "re-engineered" something while I am driving to Boise. (I get some of my best work done while I am cruising down the road) I am getting dangerously close to seeing it (hopefully) move under its own power! It's those pesky loose ends that are keeping me down!

Hmmn I may have stuck my foot in it! You now are sounding like you're almost there - whereas I took your July forcast to mean you still had a long ways to go!

Ahh, that's OK. Of course the winner will no doubt drive the looser to the restaurant to collect on the bet, and it would be worth loosing just to see it in action and go for a ride in it! Besides, ready to move under its own power and ready for a 200 mile road trip can be two entirely different things...

I do most of my re-engneering when I'm falling asleep at night. Fortunately I haven't had to do TOO much of that with this project so far, because since daylight savings time started I've been getting up at 5:00 AM to go in to work earlier so I can get off early enough to get a little work in a lot of evenings. When I'm not doing Scouts or baseball or whatever else my kids have on their agenda. Getting up that early means I don't spend much time staring at the ceiling waiting to fall asleep most nights... :w2:

May I ask if you used rubber mount between the oil cooler and the mount?
If not you should do so- vibrations will break the cooler off. I wouldn't use hose clamps for the oil cooler hose, get them crimped, your engine oil will be out under load before you recognize the "oh,sh!t lamp"
It's a painful (expensive) experience if that happens.

I mounted the oil cooler with the benz mounts, the clamps are not your typical hose clamps, I got them at the hydrolic supply shop. They couldn't do the crimp deal like I wanted to so these clamps apply as much or more as the crimp, so they say(I guess I'll find out!)

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Your exactly correct, moving under its own power and on the road are two different deals! I seriousy don't see it being ready to become my dd until mid summer, it seems like the nice weather is stealing shop time! Was working on the shift likkage today before I have to go to work and it looks like I might be able to get one more shift point for 1st by moving the stop and easing the plastic trim!

I'd like to see more of a close up picture of those if/when you're working on it and have your camera handy...
Does your 86 have the rod-style linkage with the pivot bracket welded to the bottom side of the tranny hump?

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I had a question for both Benzer1 and FTE.

How are you guys planning on dealing with the vacuum controlled fuel cutoff valve to shut the engine down? Replace it with an electric solenoid? Install a valve to control vacuum to the original vacuum pod? Something else?

I stripped the HVAC vacuum solenoids out of the donor car (300SD). I wired one of them up to the ignition switch (used to be the distributor wire) As long as the key is on, no vacuum to the IP. Shut the key off, solenoid off, it shuts down. I had to put the vacuum line on a different port on the solenoid to make it work, but it works good.

OK, I see. The 300SD (W126) series must be different than the 300D or 300CD (W123) then. From what you're saying the vacuum to the IP in the SD has an electric solenoid. The D and CD don't. They actually have vacuum lines running to a valve built into the key switch and turning the key opens/closes the vacuum port directly.

Just in case you're wondering why I've been following these Mercedes/Jeep swaps so closely and asking so many questions, I have a spare motor and tranny from a 300D that I may be swapping into a Cherokee one day. Things like this will be good info to have when that day comes - I now know I can get the shutdown parts from a 300SD and make it work without trying to come up with a way to re-invent the wheel ;)

The SD is the same, the vac is built into the key switch. I used a vac solenoid that was originally for the heating/AC, it's one of the solenoids that move the doors when you switch from defrost to floor, etc......... There were like six of them in the car.... I took them all out when I stripped the SD.......

John