another om617 into 98 jeep tj
 

hey guys, im well on my way to getting this thing installed. i would consider "phase one" to be complete as the motor mounts are complete, frame notch for saab alt complete and the motor is installed with the mercedesdiesel4x4 adapter.

a little back ground on the jeep

a 98 Sahara, 4.0, 5 speed. 190,xxx miles. 4" lift, 35" tires, ford 8.8 rear with 4.56 gears, lunchbox locker in the front, mustang gt rear brakes, etc. engine ran so smooth but 13 mpg was killing me. but wasnt giving up the jeep i waited 40 years to buy.. so in goes a diesel

bought an 84 300td wagon for $500 and was able to hear it run before i towed it home. inside of the engine is soooo clean, its crazy. main bearings are perfect. during the install, im installing a t3/04e turbo, fmic, and my IP is on its was back from Sveden getting 7.5 elements. also 3" exhaust and custom intake manifold.

so heres a few pix as ive been working thru the challenges. i have to give credit to this page and its write up (sorry, cant think of the screen name of the guy with the red xj, but damn, that looks factory. cudos)

im on to the wiring recently, starter is done, ordered some fuse boxes for the glow plug and working thru the saab alt wiring. ill be sure to update as i go

the fuel pump seemed pretty simple a piece of 3/8" stainless tubing took the place of the fuel pump perfectly. hope it works... and as you can see, the saab alt, in my set up, was a little too close to the frame rail:scare2:

Looking good! I'm on to stage 4 of my build. Keep us posted.

I'm a little concerned about your engine mounts transmitting alot of vibrations.

Possibly. They are meant for use as motor mounts, however. I'll give them a shot. If nothing else ito gets my engine in and running and if I have to make changes down the road, no big deal

Been doing a bit of Internet looking good at saab alternator wiring and it seems to be as simple as hooking it up to the battery and one wire for the dash light. No field or exciter wire needed

although the Saab AL129X is "self exciting" you will really have to rev it to get it going (2700-3300rpm) and your ECM will throw the charge light by then if you're still using it. The field line is the way to go. If you haven't already bought the Saab alt I have found a much better option.

Yeah I got the Saab but would love to hear your other option

so received my IP back from dieselmeken. might get it on this weekend. ive finished the "manual" glow plug relay. basically a 100a circuit breaker, to a starter solenoid, to a same fuse box, one 30a for each plug. (pix to come), turbo and ext wastegate are about done, wiring is cleaned up and secured. this weekend will be, mounting the remote oil filter and tstat, reinstalling the grill, IP and associated hoses n shit, interior wiring from glow plugs....and fabbing intake manifold....

ok. an up date
exhaust is 98% done. 3" stainless, beautiful
fuel is 99% done just need boost signal line from manifold to IP
one day ATPturbo will send me a v band clamp for the wastegate THAT FITS and i can finish that side of the motor.
intercooler is mounted, smaller than i would have liked but couldnt find what i wanted.
wiring is, mostly done. boost gauge and new coolant temp gauge installed in pod ($8 from amazon), i drilled and tapped the factory coolant temp sensor for the new one. just need to extend wires to crank and oil sensor
intake manifold is done, need to start making IC pipes
and the stainless braided hose you see there, im using the hole on the pass side of the block for heater hose return instead of running it all the way to the driver side. the SS hose is cause it wrapped in around the exhaust and turbo. btw, block heater threads are 1" NPT

getting pretty close to starting this thing. just need to finish getting the oil cooler lines sorted. another week till the fittings i need arrive. meanwhile, im finishing up the turbo side of the engine. got a couple couplers for the intercooler pipes today and did a little more wiring. soldered wires onto the engine kill solenoid, did a bit more figuring on the heater core hoses and dropped the ps hose off to get it remade to my needs. also made a blank off plate for the suspension oil pump this weekend.

shes running!!!:jump: and driving.:rocking: and yours (and mine) concern for the motor mounts turned out to be for naught. the vibrations arnt bad at all. even with the ic pipe off, its got some good pep :tu:

tach dont work :sad: need to investigate this further

the one time i looked, the alt was charging, ill have to watch it more

need to bead roll my ic pipes, popped one off

needs a muffler....

the solenoid i used for the engine kill works perfectly, except it holds the vacuum when i go to start back up and wont allow it to start. need to figure out how to vent that.

Congrats on the driver, Burn a tiny hole in the vacuum fitting...
it might not be the coolest way to shut down a benz, but I used the jeeps OE vapor canister purge solenoid, and then I burned a very small hole in one of the rubber vacuum connectors, in the shutdown side, The vacuum overcomes the leak to shut down, then bleeds off to restart. that works, but still takes a second or 2, too both shut down; and to bleed the shutdown vacuum for a restart.
there are lots and lots of different styles of solenoid vacuum valves, There are some that are exactly designed to work and vent, with no calibrated bleed orifice required, I did my best to buy the correct style, but I got it wrong, so I used what was in the shop.
for the tach, are the rest of your instruments working? do you have any kind of a a cam signal? crank signal?.
have you seen the beaders that people make from heavy duty wire crimpers pliers?

congrats on the driver again
have fun

speedo, oil pressure and fuel gauge work normally. i installed aftermarket gauge for water temp and boost. i only have the crank sensor hooked up, havent spent any time playing with the cam sensor yet.

a buddy came over this am with his bead roller so that problem is fixed. ill work on some of these other problems later today. dad wants to go see fate of the furious

i just finished reading your build thread front to back and didnt see anything about this in it. can you elaborate for me? im afraid im not the electrical wiz...

i had to really pay attention to the vibrations from the motor mounts today, cause they arnt noticeable over a stock engine. so, happy with the motor mounts. also installed the new wheels and tires today, and fixed a couple clearance issues.

and i think i missed it, you started with a red xj and ended with a bluey one...what happened to the red one?

Try this check valve on the diaphram side of the shut down solenoid, I was going to get one this morning to verify if it would work, but didnt get a chance. It's only $4 bucks, so if it doesnt work, not much money lost. Leave the vacuum side of the check valve open, and on the two port side, one goes to the shutdown vacuum accuater, the other coming from the load side of the solenoid. That way you should be able to get full vacuum to the shutdown, yet allow the diaphram to release once the vacuum is cut off by the solenoid.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...3598ed5ffa.png

the solenoid i used for the engine kill works perfectly, except it holds the vacuum when i go to start back up and wont allow it to start. need to figure out how to vent that.[/QUOTE]

you using the wrong vac solinoid, I just figured this out this morning myself and posted on my question thread. :s:

I used the vac switch on the left , and it initally worked on my MW pump, but did not work on my M pump, I switched this morning to the metal round vac switch on the right and it works great!
the green thing on the right is a mercedes vac check valve there are lots on the car,

hpe this helps
:c:

you using the wrong vac solinoid, I just figured this out this morning myself and posted on my question thread. :s:

I used the vac switch on the left , and it initally worked on my MW pump, but did not work on my M pump, I switched this morning to the metal round vac switch on the right and it works great!
the green thing on the right is a mercedes vac check valve there are lots on the car,

hpe this helps
:c:[/QUOTE]

Seems like I read he is not using the Mercedes solenoid, but the Jeep vapor canister solenoid, I think it is a normally closed instead of normally open valve, so it has to be denergized while the engine is running. I have read others have just put a pin hole in the line to allow it to leak down, but I think the three port check valve will work better because your not loosing vacuum from the intentional leak.

what i found was just by switching the vacuum lines, it works perfect now

so a couple notes after a week of driving.

for some reason my gas gauge doesnt work the same as before, so i ran out of gas. seems you need to re bleed the lines after an event such as this.

and besides that, this thing runs amazing and is a blast to drive. i dont have accurate fuel mileage yet as im waiting for the new gear for the speedo. however im pretty sure i could easily do 90 on 35"s. i installed a 3" magnaflow on this weekend and im so happy with it over no muffler

There seems to be two different sending units used, I'm still running my gas 4 cyl in the Jeep, and when the fuel pump went bad a couple of years back, the replacement had a new sending unit with it. You can fill the tank all the way up, but the guage never goes all the way to full. Mine has the small tank, so I figured the parts house gave me the pump and sending unit for the big tank. I don't drive it far after the light comes on!

i was looking at things wrong. the gas gauge is not incorrect, the way i moddified the fuel pick up is apparently not as low as it could go, so ill have to drop the tank again and work that out. the ps return line has been a leaking thru the hose. just old i guess so a new hose will go on monday

and as far a crankcase ventalation, i have just a little k&n looking filter on the valve cover but its spewwing fumes and oil droplets er`where. i tried routing it to the oil pan (like mercedesdiesel4x4 suggested) and it caused too much positive pressure and my valve cover gasket stared spewing. so ill need to put a catch can on. i guess ill be routing the outlet to the turbo intake and the drain back to the oil pan. gonna use that damn -6 port i just pulled the pan to install last night!

my vacuum pump too a complete shit on me yesterday, so i pulled it again a disassembled. found some random parts in the intake tube before the first check valve :humm: whatever. pulled them out and reinstalled, good so far.

and last, i have a random "runs like im towing a refrigerator" issue. runs like a dog, takes forever to spool up vibrates like a mo-fo. then next time i get in, runs liked a raped ape :WTF:

may need a new rack damper bolt.

whatever that is, i would hope the guys in sweden put one in.


so, the saga continues. mother effing oil leaks, omg. still working my way through them. i figured resealing everything before i but the engine would be good enuf. nope

also, monday, one of the dowel pins, from the engine to adapter plate, fell out and into the area between ap and flywheel. all kinds of banging around. just got done pulling everything off to get it out. i would suggest to anyone using the md4x4.com adapter, to peen the holes on the transmission side so they cant vibrate out

So far, I've been lucky on mine, no leaks other than the fuel return lines between injectors. I'm going to run it a while on the stand before I drop it in. Sure is a whole lot easier to fix leaks while its on the stand! LOL!

so an update. the oil seals in my t3/04 turbo finally gave up the ghost. looked like i was fogging for mosquitos. it was so bad i was scared it was going to catch on fire. i had a rebuild kit coming so saturday i pulled it and rebuilt. was doing great for a day and not the smoke is getting a little worse each day. wondering if the center section is just toast and its time for a new one. vavle cover seems to be leaking like a mo fo, so i guess i need to fix that. again. about two weeks ago i noticed a major oil leak and found a crack in the oil pan i got from md4x4.com it was in the side, near the dipstick hole. nothing hit it that i could see and i havent even taken it off road yet. pull the pan, again, and have my buddy weld it. reinstalled the front crank seal since i guess i knocked it out of place putting pan back in at some point. still need a ps pump pulley puller to reseal that guy. oh and im on my second muffler cause the first glass pack filled up w soot and sounded like shit in two days. so i installed a flowmaster 50 series, which is better, buti dont love it.

on to the good. this thing hauls ass

I was thinking about using a diesel tractor muffler on mine, So far I haven't had any leaks from the Mercedes 4x4 pan I have. Sux about having so many leaks. If my buddy will go over to his mechanic and pickup my turbo, I will probably go ahead and build it while I got it off, but I have a feeling he must owe the mechanic money, because he has been in no hurry to get it. Hopefully in a couple of weekends I will have mine in.

so i guess its time for an update.

cocksucker still runs hot idle-195ish interstate 215-ish. fuck if i know
added a boost controller and pushing 20 psi. just WOW!
just started rebuilding a set of injectors, with new nozzles, need a couple fittings for the pop tester then im a go
i still think my head gasket is leaking. ill set up some time to knock that out
my lift pump took a poop on me thursday so had to swap that out with a used one and rebuild kit has been ordered.
have started installing an electric vacuum pump so i can ditch the engine driven unit. have to work some mojo with the engine kill solenoids so there isnt a constant vacuum leak.
wish i could find a quieter muffler
throw out bearing is getting noisey
alternator charges flawlessly.
i swapped out the stock rubber trans mount for poly, since the engine mounts are poly. the vibes were a bit worse, but i bumped the idle up about 100 rpm and fixed that.
buying new piping to reroute the lower rad hose. goes right in front of the crank pulley and is just in the way.
i dont have the fuel mpg i want yet. hopefully i see some improvement after the injectors and vac pump delete. been thinking about and electric fuel pump also and bypassing the lift pump. thats a few hundred $$ and ill need to be convinced its worth it.
last time i went of road, i smoked the shit out of the luk clutch. its working ok now but im curious how much life i took off it
still need to reroute and clean up the engine bay.

Update
 

I swapped out the injectors for rebuilt units And it's been nailing real bad since I've gone as far as putting the old ones back in, still nailing. Idk

Got the electric Vac pump, from an audi, installed and working flawlessly. Motor driven Vac pump will be gutted soon.

Took her to "jeepin with Judd" last weekend and got on the trails and obstacle course and the little diesel did amazing Walked around, barely off idle on the advanced trails..

The oil filter reallocation plate from md4x4 kinda sucks with the 1/2 npt threads. The fittings bottom out on the block and end up leaking I welded some jic fittings on a new plate I made and will be swapping that out soon

Routed the valve cover vent to intake before the turbo, using 1/2 line. Seems to be doing the job

Still happy with the swap

since i couldnt find a cause of the nailing i was getting after i changed the injectors, i wanted to pull the head and make sure there wasnt any engine damage happening. so pulled the head, and thankfully there is no engine damage. i replaced the valve seals while it was off and rolled in a new timing chain after reinstall. old one was stretched about 5 degreess. I have 4 rebuilt injectors and one old. Had one that was making a bad sound, almost like a rod knock. did some rerouting of the oil cooler and hoses and the lower radiator hose. also installed an electric fan off some sort of hyundai. i found it sitting all alone in the jy and thought it looked like it would fit its bigger than my FAL and has a shroud. fits pretty well and works as it should. jeep now goes like stink. finished the exhaust out to the back and things are a lot quieter now. i have 3" thru a hush power then a super 50 flowmaster. sound great not too loud at all. still fiddeling with things here and there but overall, im happy and its all done but the clean up

havent done too much to it lately, which is a good thing i supposed. had to replace the alternator as it started charging at 16.5 volts. it had less than a year run time on it, which is pretty shitty. and how tight it is and covered by ic piping and misc stuff, took like 2 hrs to get out. the oil cooler was re mounted to in front of the the battery, its a DeRale with two 5" fans, and mounted to pull air thru openings i made in the hood. now it doesnt block the radiator and is much easier to access if needed. Im assuming that the minor "running hot" issue is due to the engine driven water pump running about 600 rpms lower than it would in a stock 300d. might have found a viable replacement pulley, thats much easier to source than a smaller mb pulley. should bring water pump rpms back up to 3063. ill follow up after its on and running.

best news of all. now getting over 18 mpg, on 35" tires and 4.56 gears.

i know .... Old thread... anyway..... its best to get clarification in existing threads than to start all new ones...

sooo where did you (or anyone else who did a 617 TJ) put your remote oil filter? Ended up with the dual filter recommended by Doomesday DIesel.

did you solve this and how.. (I know old as shiat thread) mine does same thing.

drat... 2 years since posted in here
 

Drat.. Ruktard has not posted in last two years..

Anyone else got input on where to put dual remote filter on a TJ ..... and about the overcharging alternator? (two questions I just posted above)