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1993 Jeep YJ Kubota Swap

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  #51  
Old 04-18-2018, 05:28 PM
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After months of fiddly farting around I've made a whole bunch of progress. The engine is bolted to the trans, which is bolted to the transfer case. All I'm missing is the flywheel adapter, which I'm almost done designing. I had the flywheel housing redrilled for an AMC bell housing bolt pattern and I had two dowel pins made to keep everything aligned. As for my transfer case adapter, two pieces of 1/2" steel with a bunch of holes drilled in it. Ford didn't make it easy on the transfer case side, none of the four holes were in line with each other, and the bog center bore wasn't in the center of the pattern. I also learned how to 3D print during the process since I knew I would end up measuring something wrong, and who doesn't like making useless trinkets for fun?
 
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  #52  
Old 04-18-2018, 05:31 PM
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One question, does anyone know how far the crank sticks out of the back of the block on a 4.0 or 258? I know dieselxj said the flywheel friction surface is 1.555" from the back of the block, but the crank stickout makes setting up the adapter that much easier, at least for me anyway.

Joe
 
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  #53  
Old 11-06-2018, 03:02 PM
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what your calling the high idle solenoid , what your looking at is the run /shutdown solenoid ,one wire black goes to ground one wire goes to crank hot and the other wire is hot with key , when you crank the engine ,the solenoid pulls in when you release the key to run position it holds the solenoid in snd when you turn the engine off the solenoid spring pushes the fuel rack rearward and shuts off ,hooking this up any other way the solenoid will burn out and stop working soon , Having said that as a no start condition , i believe your problem is not priming the fuel pump turn primer pump counter clockwise until it pops up, turn the bleed screw counterclockwise .pump pump and pump some more , i hope your running a filter because injector nozzles holes are small , while pumping the primer pump you should feel the pump become hard , turn bleed screw clockwise, push pump plunger down and turn clockwise , try starting , still no start, crack injectors line loose at injector ,to bleed the air out of the lines, turn engine over you should see raw high pressure come out of the lines wear glasses beware high pressure fuel can hurt or worse .if you still have no fuel, pump needs to come apart and looked at by a professional . also the run stop solenoid can be eliminated can use a cable to the lever run stop .and make a plate to replace the solenoid. most V2203 kubotas i build have been sitting for years and years , the fuel pumps are dry and stuck if after all this you dont have fuel at the injectors , your problem is the pump . still confused Message me and ill walk you through the process .
 
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