Wix full flow spin on oil filter conversion. This style filter disengages from the base within 3/4". The base retains all the good functions of the factory unit. This also makes more room for IP changes and adjustments. It also opens up many options as this base type has many adaptor options. As soon as I'm done testing this unit I will run a batch to sell.

 

I made good progress on the York OBA. I'll post pictures of the finished product soon.

 

hey evenglass. how do you feel about having your oil filter upside down??? I would think Gravity is not your friend here. do you have any kind of anti-drain back planned, is there a check valve in there somewhere?
every time you shut down it looks like your filter will empty? then every time you start, you will have oil pressure delay until the filter fills up, and that is a freakin monster filter.
The air is not aircon, just compressed air? that would be nice. what is the cfm of that compressor compared to the mid size portable electrics?
I have been using a slime branded little 12v air compressor for years now, it is a little slow, but it has never let me down, I added a 30 foot extension cord to it, and it can reach all the way back to the rear axle on my trailer
looks like fun

 

Some filters have check valves built in, but I looked at the specs, and this one does not, but since the original filter is also upright, I would assume there is a check valve built into adapter.

 

Most of the aircraft's I've worked on have inverted filters as do alot of machinery and modern automobiles. The Mercedes housing only ever stays full upto the stand pipe. My filter mounts just above that pipe.
The York compressor is for air. The only electric compressor that even comes close to it's output is the Oasis unit at $1800 which uses a modified York head. The York 210 is 10cfm per stroke dual piston unit rated for continuous output. I can run an impact directly.

 

Nice! I built a compressor similar to that about thirty years ago for a carpenter friend of mine, he had a 20 hp kohler engine and a belt drive refrigeration compressor. I used a cvt drive on the motor and compressor, pressure switch tied to an idle solenoid, so when the pressure got down, it would throttle the motor up and start turning the compressor. He used it for several years, I think he blew up the motor though, didn't keep a check on the oil!

 

hey are you an A&P too. that was a long time ago for me. for me, most of those engines started out with screens, not filters, then there was a STC modification to add canister filters, and the adapters have check valves. it just seems that with the filter upside down like that it will always leave stuff in the engine/plumbing instead of the bottom of the filter can.
but hey if it makes you happy also the mess at filter change,
I am not saying its not an improvement from having to move your engine to change your oil. I hate to think about a water pump change with my setup
It looks like you might have swapped a giant pain in the a$$ for a little oil spillage.

Is your souped up pump holding together?
I am home building a Frankenstein pump for the Kubota, I have a few doubts if it will work, but if all goes well, I might get a whopping 6% more fuel.
Are you building a new engine there, or just playing with an old one?

 

A&P apprentice many years ago, lots of oil changes. As far as the filter not holding debris the inverted canister will actually hold more in the filter than the factory cartridge style due to the pleat design. As far as being messy, it should be cleaner than the factory cartridge. The housing drains back to the height of the stand pipe in the housing, the spin-on is just above this pipe. Basically the only thing that I changed was the actual filtering element, all functions remain exactly as factory even the vertical filter.
6% is 6% you will definitely feel it. No issues with the super pump at all. I have 3 engines, all of them run. One I use for mocking stuff up, the other is getting all the really good go fast goodies(head studs, ported head, more boost, better water pump, OBA) then it goes in the jeep.

 

Man you are rocking it .
I managed to get my OM 617 into my scout 800 last winter just before we got dumped on with snow .
I just couldn't wait any longer and had to drive it around the block last weekend even though I had not change the 3.73 gearing out yet.
as expected she fell flat on her face in 3rd gear . but I knew that would happen .
so now I'm getting ready to doing the gearing Everglass.
thus my question.
Refreshed info . Stock OM 617 , 700R4, NP 208 TC
after crunching the numbers I'm really thinking I'm going to go 4.88 gearing vs. 4.56 with 31/10.5R15's
the numbers look reasonable . but my question is that without doing any major mods of yet whats you opinion as to
what to expect from your experience with me doing mods to come later ?

 

4.56-4.88 is right on I think. Make sure your stall speed is high enough.