5.9 clutch
 

I have a 02 dodge 5 speed. I need a new clutch. I got 160k out of the old one. Most of the time not hooked to anything. I tow, though not very frequently. Range from 300 to 12,000 pounds, with an occasional load over 16. Like during the fall, I may go haul 6 loads of round bales. But its mostly a few four wheelers or maybe 10 head of cattle. Do I need a 13? Or can I go like a step up with a valair 12? I plan on keeping it for as long as I can.

If you're going single disk, I don't think there's much of a price difference between the two sizes of clutches. Are you running at stock power, programmed, or what?

It seemed like it was 280 for the 12 & it seemed like it was a step above stock, maybe organic something? The 13 was 650 maybe & it came w a flywheel. Stock right now, considering a diablo pwr puck. 50 hp.

we have had good luck with the sacs ceramic 12" replacment clutch, holding fine in 12v's with "100" plates slid forward

You're going to have to put that last sentence in English. Me no comprende. I was with you until after 12v.

I thought we didnt like ceramic clutches for towing because of how hard they catch?

Basically he's saying that the clutch he is referring to is holding between 100-150hp over stock on a 12v.

Two different questions. On a clutch, you are more worried about hp than what you're towing ? To rule out the slave/master cylinder, my transmission guy said he couldn't see the rod actuating. He had it in the air. Is this something you should be able to see or feel or is something in the way?

not what i ment at all, the ceramic's dont wear as fast, can take more slipping, and have a higher friction coeficient, as a result they can hold more power

if you had a slave/master cylinder issue then probably the clutch wouldnt release, so if it is slipping then thats probably not the issue

i've been towing with single and dual disk 12 button ceramic clutch's for years, now the 6 button ones thats a whole different ballgame they act more like the southbend Con-Fe clutchs which have the feramic side to the disk, i dont recomend those for anything, if you need more then a 400hp clutch, go with a street dual and be done

True. And I went back and checked his first post and he said he rarely tows. I guess I saw the weights he listed and assumed he towed often.

This is whats going on. I can step on the clutch, start it, and it won't go in gear. Sometimes, on the way to the shop, the clutch would let me switch into 1st from a stop. A couple times, I had to kill it to get it to quit pulling. Stepping on the clutch had no effect . So, more times than not, the clutch would not let me out of gear. As far as I can tell, when it is in gear it's not slipping. The fluid is not dirty in the reservoir , & the pedal does come out when I step on it. So, I dont know if it's the clutch or slave/master. The guy at the shop said he thinks it's the clutch but he's not sure. He also said he had it in the air & could not see the
Rod engage or disengage. He could not see it. I guess something was in the way. Pumping the clutch numerous times has no benefit.