i just let it run for about 10 minutes completely cold. about every 45 seconds or so i squezeed the upper radiator hose. 0 pressure at all i can squeeze it shut with two fingers. i did notice there is no air hole in any of the thermostats. im going to drill a tiny little hole in it and see if it works

That might help it some. The hole doesn.t have to be too tiny. A little water bypass won't hurt anything. 1/8 to 3/16 is probably a good size.

well i just now found my lazer probe after looking for it for 3 months. even though everything was ohmed out to the gauge and a new sensor and all i THINK my gauge was lying to me!!!!!!!!!!!! when it hit 260 on my gauge, my little thermometer said 179.6 and then bam the thermostat opened. im thinking after all this time that was the case. im going to install an autometer water temp gauge and see where were at then!

That is a lot better news than an engine problem.

yes it is. but its stupid how something so dumn can cause me this much headache:argh::argh::argh:

if only i found my thermometer months ago. who wouldve known it was bad with a brand new sensor and all new wiring and whatnot. guess its a chevy problem. my wifes tahoe runs at 190 all day, but the gauge will tell you it runs about 145 or so. damn chevys. as soon as my new gauge gets here ill install it and let you guys know what happens

It seems like you have had more than your share of strange problems lately. First the brakes that someone put the calipers on upside down and now a bad gauge. At least they didn't cost much to fix.

well its officially fixed! got ym autometer temp gauge in today, and the thing runs right at 180* on the money and my electric fan never even turned on once. even sitting in traffic it was great! now just to get my heater to get warm these damn diesels dont run hot enough

I don't know if you solved this problem yet but if not maybe this will help. Part of my business is radiators and cooling and very seldom is it a water flow problem. It sound like an air flow problem to me. Clutch fan ran hot at idle because of low air flow and cold down when air flow raised. Elec. fan ran cool at idle because it was moving more air and then got hot because it blocked the air flow. The electric fan is not as powerful as the clutch fan hundreds of horsepower power the clutch fan and only fractional power the electric. The first question I have is was the fan shroud in place with the edges fitting tight on the radiator a small gap around fan and about 2/3 of the fan in the shroud? That would be might first choice over a electric fan. If you want to go electric you probably need two fans. Mount the fans as close to the radiator as you can. I don't recommend using ties through the radiator seen too many leaks caused. On a electric fan you have to leave open holes in the shroud for air to pass through at moving speed if not they will block the air and cause it to heat up at speed. Always run 50/50 coolant coolant neutralizes acids in water that will eat aluminum and watch the flush it is a acid I don't ever recommend it in alum. radiators. Hope it helped if you haven't fixed it by now.

its all fixed. it was just the temp gauge being innacurate.

i drove about 200 miles today. didnt even have to turn my fan on a single time, sitting in traffic for a long time the highest i saw was maybe 195 if even that high