HELP GOT A 12VALVE THAT WON'T START
 

ok bone stock 12v stuck at my house.. i have no idea where to look first... turns over no fire like there's no fuel.. my buddy replaced the fuel filter a couple months ago... is there a lift pump on these and will it do the same as a 24 valver and fry the ip if the lp goes out... help thanks guys

Hey Cameron, I moved this in here so that it would get immediate attention since the truck is sittin dead. Good Luck to ya.

thanks Uncle Budda

look at the battery on the driver side and on the positive terminal there should be a blue wire with a fuseable link on it..... that is the power for your fuel shut off solonoid. if the solonoid goes bad it'll burn out the fuseable link or burn the wire into. look at the back of the AFC housing (to the front of where the fuel filter is) and there is a solonoid with a few wires coming out of the top of it and it plugs in to the harness right around where the fuel filter is. make sure it is plugged in good. look for any signs of the solonoid being "burnt" as mine did when it went bad. if it is bad you can wire tie that lever in the up position to make the truck run. and you have to make the lever go down to shut the motor off. i'll get some pics if i can to point out the solonoid.

Attachment 1858
check this relay too. this is where that blue wire goes too. it should be to the left of the brake booster.

Attachment 1859
here is where the fuel shutoff solonoid is.the top where the wire is coming out is where mine burnt up.

with the ignition on reach below the solonoid and slide the rod up into the solonoid. have someone try to crank it while you hold it up. if it cranks and you can remove your hand and the truck still runs then half of the circuit is bad rather it be the solonoid, relay, or burnt blue wire at the battery. if it'll run until you remove your hand you can tie the arm up and it'll run until you untie it or until it falls off while going down the road. hope this helps out....





have you "give: or did u figure it out yet?

thanks for the response guys we got in there tested the solenoid tested good... someone recommended priming the hell out of it cracking the injector lines and cranking it... well had no wrenches to crack the lines but we did prime the hell out of it and started right up after about 20 seconds... what would be causing the issue... the truck has 265,000 miles on it and not sure on the up keep so where should we start thanks again guys :up:

it's getting air in the system. prolly from the lines at the fuel preheater screen thing all the way to the injection pump..... start looking for leaks.... you can pressurize the fuel tank to help aide in finding the leak..... others should chime in now.... i've never had to deal with that problem..... knock on wood.....

If you have never replaced your fuel lines before - its time. What happens is that the rubber developes very small pinholes - small enough to not leak, yet it lets enough air into your fuel system to allow you to lose prime. So, it would be a very good idea to replace your rubber fuel lines...there is 2 at the tank and 2 at the front of the truck.

A good source for the line is this guy:

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

Good diesel rated fuel line is NOT cheap. Make sure you use lonly maring grade diesel fuel hose (not the regualar fuel hose at your local parts house). This is not a fun job, so you dont want to do it too many times.

Also, what does the truck idle at after it starts (in gear with the AC on)???