99 CTD Blue Smoke, Loss of Power
 

hey all, just wondering if anybody has any info on what may be going on with my truck.

I have intermittenly experiencing a loss of power in 5th gear. It has been getting worse now and has happened a couple times today. You will be cruising along and go to give it throttle and it will be very "flat" for power. If I downshift into 4th and give it throttle everything returns to normal.

The other problem, which is probably related is twice I have had tons of blue smoke pour from the exhaust and the truck actually "stumbled". It cleared right up and on my way I went.

I was thinking maybe APPS, but not totally sure

any insight folks? Let me know :w:

Thanks

Scott

I bet someone will be around soon to answer this fer ya! :pc:

Blue smoke is generally a lack of fuel. I see you have a pressure gauge installed, so what kind of pressure are you getting at idle and WOT.

If it is an APPS problem it is usually, but not always periods of dead pedal and momentary loss of Tach.

You also need to run it by an Auto Zone or someplace to have the codes checked. If you maintaining Lift Pump pressure the next likely culprit is gonna be the Injector pump. Makes sure you don't do any power upgrades until after you have increased fuel flow to much more then a stock pump is going to provide. The stock fuel supply in these trucks is far from adequate even in the stock powered truck.

What does the fuel pressure guage say?

Are you sure that isnt white smoke? How about hard starting when warm - does it do that? White smoke, dead pedal, hard starts when warm are all classic signs of VP-44 failure.

My initial guess is APPS or VP-44.

Have you scanned it for codes?

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You could reset the APPS and see if that helps. Heres the easy APPS reset:

"Resetting the APPS causes the ECM to 're-learn' where the throttle is at all times when something happens to cause the ECM to not understand what the APPS is telling it like a dirty spot or something like that. What you do is disconnect BOTH batteries (yes you will need to reprogram your radio), turn the key on and wait for atleast 10 minutes, then turn the key off and hook up the batteries. Once that is done turn the key on but don't start it yet. SLOWLY and steadily push the throttle to the floor and SLOWLY and steadily release it. Turn the key off and then you can start it. You have now re-set the APPS. Normally when you need to do this your APPS is in the process of failing but you bought some more time for it."

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Heres the more accurate method:

"This is different than resetting it. I did it to mine today and it made a nice difference. Boost comes up faster and smoke is down. You have to measure the voltage that the APPS is putting out then compare that to the voltage that it's supposed to be set at. For example. My apps was putting out .450 volts and it was supposed to be putting out .584 volts. I went and adjusted it and now I'm putting out .580 volts. It's not a major difference but it is nice. I've only put maybe 5 miles on it so far but come wednesday I'll be doing 500 miles a week so I'll give yall a better idea on how it drives.

Instructions:

Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.

* You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
* You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
* Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
* At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference

TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK

Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.

Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!

You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).

On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.

* After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
* The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly."

At idle the truck has 16psi, WOT - is between 13-14psi

I have never lost my tach, but I am experience periods of dead pedal

I pulled the codes from it a little while back after it happened the first time and nothing was stored - I guess I should do this again - I was going to be looking into a Smarty in the next month, but I guess that's on hold as of now.

any other info let me know

Thanks
Scott

Youe fuel pressure definitely is good - but the IP can fail with good fuel pressure. Not the norm, but it can happen.

I would get it scanned for codes, try the first APPS reset and see what happens from there.

Good luck with it.

Maybe someone that knows more than me will chime in with some suggestions.

If the VP had a period of low or no pressure before this (maybe different owner) than it is likely that it is just had enough and is starting to go down.

P0216 is what you will see. Along with the code for low voltage at the injection pump - I can't remember that number. You'll have a 1693 companion code as well.

I would guess you are looseing the VP, old friend of mines did the same thing two years ago going to Terra Haute. It was dead when he got home. Shut her down and it would not start again.

Andy

as a few said bfore its most likly going to be the vp-44. but i would not put apps
aside as the culprit. my apps did the weirdest things before it thru a code and went totally dead. from going wide open at a stoplight, to complete dead pedal. i tried cleaning it etc. nothing

I've never seen an apps cause blue smoke though, I have seen a VP do it.

Andy

Doc - It is definetely blue smoke and not white, FP is fine now but this was originally an issue when I bought the truck. Hard starting is not a problem yet.

Thanks for all the input folks, I kinda new this problem would show. I bought the truck in oct of 06, put a fuel guage on it and it had about 9 psi at idle and you could pull it down to 0 very easily when you drove it, that's why I put the new fuel system on it. I guess it's time to shell out some $$$.

thanks again

Scott

I wouldn't buy a new Injector Pump yet. Next question is where is your Pressure guage hooked in at. Before or after your fuel filter.

I would also recommend changing the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the VP44. This is nothing more then the Banjo Bolt for the fuel return line on your Injector Pump. It has a spring loaded shut off in it that is designed to keep the internal pressure of the pump at 14psi. If this spring is weak it will let fuel flow right through the bypass in the pump and back to the tank not sending anough to the injectors. This would also cause your smoke. This is a $14 part from the dealer that you should replace when you install a new pump anyway. So you got nothing to lose by trying it. In talkin to a local Bosch rebuilder here, they told me they have received a good many cores through the years that worked just fine, this bolt was just bad. So they spend $1000 plus instead of $15 to fix their truck. Takes 10 minutes to change out.

That info helps Scott. I wouldnt buy a VP-44 yet either. If the FP is good I would drive it to see if its going to get worse or until some codes show up (P0216 or P1688)...try resetting the APPS first. Costs nothing and may make a difference.

wow, more good info - thanks guys, I'm gonna try resetting the apps and also check into the fuel return on the IP.

FYI - the fuel pressure guage is tapped into the fuel canister

any other insight - let me know

thanks
Scott

One fitting on the cannister is fuel coming in from the tank and the other is fuel going out to the IP. If the guage is mounted on the fitting that is going into the filter, it could just be a clogged filter. If it is mounted on the outgoing fitting then it is an accurate reading of the fuel pressure going to the IP. If you have an algae problem or got some dirty fuel these two sides could have completely different pressurse going. Something so simple could be making a big difference here.

very good point, something else I will check. If I remember corectly, I put the FP guage into the test port which is before the filter - I will definetely be checking this out also - thanks

scott

Well, I put up some big numbers tonight

P0216

I pulled the codes and shed a tear:booo: This would explain my problems!!!

I double checked my FP guage setup - the guage is after the filter. I remembered changing it after I put the "big line" from the fuel filter to the vp44 since it had a port on it.

Thanks for all the help guys, I do appreciate it, and hopefully these post with all this info will be helpful for someone else

Next:

Anybody know the best deal on a VP-44? Does a new vp-44 come with a new regulator or should I also purchase one of those?

Thanks again

Scott

Better luck next time. A few places will send the regulator with it but not many.