Surging Around 80-100 KM's An Hour
 

so driving to work and am going like 80 -100 km/hour and it starts revin 100-200 rpm higher off and on .so i start thinkin this tranny from b-d aint so shit hot.so i call them they tell me to try a couple things,i do but i dont have a scanner for tranny.no engine codes. took to tranny shop they test her out and no tranny codes,but tps is fluctuating a little to much.now before i go spend 400-600 on this part has anyone had this happen?i have read on here about setting and possibly cleaning them,true or false.

thank's,derek-albertacummins:humm:

What are the specs on your turbo? Some of the aftermarket ones surge bad...

it is a bd turbo,it has just started doing it and i have had it on there for almost a year.

better check your lift pump, thats what my 2001 did when the pump went out. Turn the key to on, you should here the lift pump fire up.

You could try the APPS reset as well.

the lift pump is a fass 150 it starts when i cycle key,apps reset? i think i seen that on here before cant remember where thou.going home last nite and coming in this morning it never acted up friggin electrical

APPS reset procedure - give this a try - its free:

This procedure has shown to help 24 valve ISB engines. It is basically teaching the fly by wire accelerator on these trucks to reread the position of the pedal and it's limits. Most complaints this will help with is poor acceleration, improper shifting, bucking in 5 and 6 speeds. Has been known to increase fuel mileage in some instances.

1. Set parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries
3. Turn ignition key to run(to drain any remaining capacitors)
4. Let truck sit for 30 minutes( this is the recommended minimum)
5. Return ignition to OFF position
6. Reconnect both batteries and secure, not a timed event
7. Turn key to run position(not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor
8. Allow pedal to return to top position slowly
9. Turn ignition switch OFF
10.Release parking brake

There is a more thorough and accurate procedure that involves a multimeter and more time.

thanks will give it a go

Now, if we can determine that the APPS is shot - there are guy up here that sells a replacement that costs a fraction of what a dealership one costs. I will have to search for the info though.

Have you scanned for codes - Im not talking about the key/on off thing I talking about using a Smarty or a OBDII Scanner.

yes i even had trans shop test drive with there scanner on.the only thing out of ordinary he said was tps sensor voltage was fluttering around he said prob not enough to set a code yet.

Ok...that does actually make some sense. There is amore accurate way to adjust the APPS (aka TPS). I will post it if/when I can find it.

ok. Heres the info:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...ting-apps.html

Instructions for adjusting the APPS (TPS):

Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.
You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK

Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.

Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!

You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).

On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly.







Try that and see what happens.



Thanks for posting Luke ! :c:

Okay, I don't know where 80-100 km per hour translates to American mph, but if it is around 38 to 40 mph I will bet it is going in and out of lock up. That is a very typical thing for the 2nd gen 24 valves to do. It should go away either above or below that speed, and there are guys that have fought it for years. If you try all the apps mods with no fix, you can buy a Commander from ATS and that will take care of the problem when you set it to keep the Torque Converter locked below 35 mph. I have been running it for years and the only time I get the "shuttle shift" as we call it is when I dial it up about 45mph.
Good luck.

5/8 of a mile in a kilometer that would make it 50-65 mph

Ok, well that doesn't fit the symptom. Nevermind. :argh:

ok thanks

Did you get this resolved?

HASNT ACTED UP AND I HAVE HEARD FROM MORE THAN A FEW PEOPLE ABOUT THE COMMANDER FROM ATS SO WILL TRY THAT,THANKS TO EVERYONE:c: