The only company I have heard of doing an emission complaint LML kit would be Duramaxtuner. I'm sure doing something like you said keeping everfything intact on a LMM would work! If you have the ability to fabricate and weld doing your own kit would be an avenue to go down. If you end up doing it provide pics!

Thanks. That the same company i heard of too.

I am thinking of contacting one of the manufacturers and maybe getting a part or two and fabbing up the rest. The oil line and turbo mounting bracket are easy. The exhaust is a little harder and the cold side the hardest as it will be the most visible. I have all of the tools to weld steel but not aluminum. Seems like many make their cold side out of aluminum, so i couldn't get one of those if i wanted to. I was thinking of modifying one to mount the turbo in a little different spot.

I will definitely take some pictures if i do this. It will likely be a year or more out as i will need to save up for it all.

so, i did another little mod to my truck yesterday.

i relocated the fuel filter and added another one in parallel to the stock one for double the life and less resistance to fuel flow.

mounted. now i need to plumb them in
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...66a66e926f.jpg

hooked the fuel lines to the original location and ran them down to the filters now mounted on the frame
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...78ebd9bb6c.jpg

removed the stock filter housing. now i have more room under the hood. and maybe a mounting point for a turbo:choochoo:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...0e37315dd0.jpg

in the process i mounted a 1/4 ball valve to the bleed port on the filter housing to make bleeding the air out so much easier. they should be like this from the factory
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...b289c9ea87.jpg

all plumbed in. now i just need to clean it up
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...67d6b4218d.jpg

should make changing the filter so much easier and less messy. i just need to get me some of those water-in-filter sensor delete plugs

what do you think?

you can bleed out the air up to those filters, but if your fuel has drained out you still have to suck up all the fuel from the filters up out to the cp3 pump which is a good length of fuel that has to be sucked up whenever u change out the filters. are you running a lift pump now? that looks like a real pain to prime those filters no using the primers on the top as well since they are right there.

your filters will also last a little bit longer by adding a pump since their service life is also dependent on the amount of restriction they have using a lift pump will allow you to use your filters longer since fuel is being pushed though them and they are no longer usable whenever your fuel pressure drops below threshold under a load.

by the looks of it it looks light u mounted those on the passenger side too

yep, passenger side. because of the old filter location and where the fuel lines were, it was easiest to mount them there.

yes i have a lift pump. Raptor 160. (need to update my signature) makes priming a breeze. in the photo with the ball valve it has a push in tubing fitting. i have a short length of tubing running down the side between the filters. i place a pail under the tubing and open the ball valve. i then turn on the lift pump and a few seconds later all if the air is out. truck starts the first time.

if each filter is supposed to last 20k miles and i have two of them and a lift pump i think i could get 50~60k miles between changes. i will likely change it long before that but getting stuck on the side of the road with bad fuel may be the thing of the past :choochoo:

next thing is to install a fuel pressure gauge in line after the filters

or just wait for the reduced engine power and change filter massage in the DIC :tttt:
how reliable are those things anyways. i did change the filter life in the tune so it wouldn't go off prematurely unless it actuality got plugged up

a gauge would be nice though

it would be super easy to install since you already have enough free hose available. i recommend an electronic gauge.

im more partial to analog gauges. i am thinking something liquid filled.

McMaster carr part number 38545K17 looks good. i can probably connect it to the test port next to the alternator.

a digital gauge would be nice if it recorded the minimum and maximum readings. if i could find one cheap that did that i would go that rout.

the sending unit is electric. the readout will still be analog. it just leaves out having to bleed out the system and run a line of fuel inside the cab.