jgstudios |
07-16-2012 05:12 PM |
Quote 1: The drain back in the injectors is letting too much fuel pass. I had H&H diesel test it and both sides were over spec but one side was worse so they changed four injectors on one side for now. It now starts fine and I plan to change the other side later for money reasons as it is not a cheep repair.
Quote 2: exactly, this is the reason hot starts are more difficult. due to the fuel getting hotter while sitting in the lines it thins out and more will leak by. this drops the rail pressure and starting becomes hard
OK, this poor starting problem is finally taking it's toll on me. I'm having the same issue. Why is this so problematic to diagnose? It seems that this forum and others have many posts relating to bad starting that all kind of point to the injectors...maybe. I've read a ton of them, and it's been going on for a very long time. But even the "pros" who get paid to do this, who are trained and certified and have all the high end test equipment don't always know what causes poor starts. There are several things that can cause long and bad starting. Why don't the testing procedures narrow it down enough that they can be certain of the true cause. I've read many posts where people have paid dealerships several thousands $$$ for injector replacement or other parts and still the problem persists. Here's an interesting link I found last night:
FUEL INJECTION !!!!! (EDUCATION) !!!!! - It's Free! : DMAXSTORE.COM, Your Duramax Diesel-Only Shopping Resource
Some more interesting info to think about. But, it still seems nebulous, and no real solid way to diagnose for those of us without a professional shop at hand. I'm inclined to believe Groovyagain73 and 2004LB7 about their diagnosis, and I think that injectors are the real issue, but from my viewpoint it's a mighty big roll of the dice. I mean, we're not talking about whether it's a battery or an alternator (relatively less expensive parts to experiment on) we're looking at upwards of $ 3000 or $4000 or more, even to do it yourself depending on the kit you buy. For such an expensive, invasive and time consuming fix, the pros should have far more solid testing procedures so we know what is causing the $5000 problem. I'd rather do it myself, but I still have no real certainty that it's injectors. What if you tear open your engine and replace all your injectors and the problem persists? There must be a test process to follow to discover what the actual issue is. Is there, or does this poor starting issue all finally end up as an educated guess? :argh:(my apologies for whining)...JG
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