Diesel Bombers - Replacing Duramax LB7 Injectors 01-04 tips and hints

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- - Replacing Duramax LB7 Injectors 01-04 tips and hints (https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-duramax-01-04-lb7/25030-replacing-duramax-lb7-injectors-01-04-tips-hints.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainediesel (Post 456767)

I am currently tearing down my '01 LB7. When I removed the upper valve cover, I found most of the fuel inlets to the injectors caked in crud. One was so caked, I'm sure there was NO fuel getting to the cylinder. Is this a sign to replace the injectors? (obviously the fuel filter died at some point in the truck life)

that crud is corrosion built up from injector lines that break off and fall into the fuel inlets when you remove the injectors, you can look at your injector lines and you see the same crud built up on them and its very tough.

you will have to glass bead blast it if its bad or replace them. and they arent cheap

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainediesel (Post 456767)

more info about it.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-...r-service.html

Great site and a great post on this topic.

I think I am going to tackle this in the next few weeks but I have some questions......

1. should I purchase the injector removal tool?
2. Is it best to drain the coolant first?
3. Is there a diagram of what injectors are on what side? I have been told that #6 is leaking (-4.1 mm3) and was going to start with that one or should I just bite the bullet and do them all? 2001 with 120K on it. One of the injectors on the drivers side has been done before, but I have no idea which one.

Thanks

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

One more question.

How do you and should you bleed the pressure from the fuel system before you start the process of removing the fuel lines?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinman (Post 459735)

Great site and a great post on this topic.

I think I am going to tackle this in the next few weeks but I have some questions......

1. should I purchase the injector removal tool?
You shouldnt need a removal tool for the injectors, i have always used a prybar using a head bolt as a fulcrum point
2. Is it best to drain the coolant first?
Yes, if you happen to pull an injector cup the coolant will go in you cylinder
3. Is there a diagram of what injectors are on what side? I have been told that #6 is leaking (-4.1 mm3) and was going to start with that one or should I just bite the bullet and do them all? 2001 with 120K on it. One of the injectors on the drivers side has been done before, but I have no idea which one.
#6 would be on the driver side third on back

Thanks

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

One more question.

How do you and should you bleed the pressure from the fuel system before you start the process of removing the fuel lines?
There isn't enough pressure built up in the lines to do any damage when you remove them when the truck is off

my replies are in green

Bump for a nice right up...........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111

So I planning on doing this in the upcoming weeks and was wondering.....

I seem to only have one bad injector (#6) and was wondering if there would be any issue with only replacing that one instead of doing all 4 on that side? I know that since I am in there it would be good to do, but at $300 each I dont want to replace a an injector when it really does not need to be replaced.

Any comments?

How can you tell which injector is leaking? Will it throw a code? Only code mine is throwing is the fuel press reg......however, I am getting fuel into the crankcase.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ekms377 (Post 468187)

How can you tell which injector is leaking? Will it throw a code? Only code mine is throwing is the fuel press reg......however, I am getting fuel into the crankcase.

balance rate test or a fuel return rate test will have to be done to see what else is going on.

when my injectors first went out i had a p0087 also

So do you see any issues with replacing only the ones or the one (#6) that fail the balance test and not the others?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinman (Post 468579)

So do you see any issues with replacing only the ones or the one (#6) that fail the balance test and not the others?

no problem with that, you have to make sure to vacuum out the corrosion thats flakes off of the contact points in the high pressure fuel lines and collects in the high pressure inlet of the injector. spend extra time on trying to vacuum them up cause it is alot of work to have something mess up and for you to dig back down there again.