stanadyne frenken pump rebuild
 

Well, It's about time, no one seems to want to touch these things. I have messed with far more complicated equipment "vw diesel pumps" and got them back together without any problems. I will post all that I have learned, and know, here with LOTS of pictures. What I plan to do is take the e-pump out of my 6.5, and replace the internals of a 6.2 pump with the internals of the 6.5 one. I am buying a seal kit and new lines, so as long as the clearances are good, I should be good. These pumps are less complicated than most carburetors, so I really do not understand the fear factor. I do understand the stanadyne folks wanting to keep the genie in the bottle, but this is old tech now. I am also trying to track down an old timer motor transport Marine to help me in rebuilding my pump.

Sounds good, but whats the difference between the 6.2 and 6.5 internals? Is it worth the swap, power improvement etc... looking forward to seeing this:tu:

What I can tell you from experience, is that clearances will be tight. I know that there is a difference between the 6.5 and 6.5 forced induction pump internals, if nothing else it is a setting. I also know that the 6.2 pump plungers are smaller, and the line internal dia. are smaller from 6.2 to 6.5. This may already be common knowledge, however, there are probably some who do not know this. I will probably pull the pump tomorrow, to inspect the rotating assy. I also looked at several pumps today, besides many of them being roosa master, and not upgraded, older 6.2 pumps, and those present with seized shafts, there were a few of interest. I stayed away from the stanadyne pump. I will explain. The 6.9/7.3 uses a stanadyne pump as well, the gear driving mechanism turns the opposite direction, the the advance works that way as well. so that was out, also, in case you have trouble identifying the pump, the 6.2/6.5 ones have a very distinct orientation. with the lines facing forward, the linkage connector is on the left side, this is becasue of the gas pedal being also on that side, where the ford pumps face the other way so it is opposite. I thought about pulling it anyway, in the event that there was something I could learn from it, like operation, plunger size, advance feature etc. I have a feeling on how this works, and I just need to pull a Sylar, and get one apart to fully understand; but here are the basics. A ve style pump has separate chambers for each cyl. to pressurize and send, and fire in a consecutive order based on pressure, only one chamber getting pressure at a time. the ve pump is highly dependent on fuel viscosity for timing and pressure regulation. the stanadyne have a much different process. The reason size/weight is kept down is because there is only one chamber for fuel to pressurize, it is simply a consecutive process as to which cyl gets fuel/pressure next. a spring loaded advance is used, as rpm's increase giving more advance as engine speed rises. I am not sure how it will work with higher temp, maybe someone can explain this? By regulating temperature from cold to hot more efficiency/power/better emissions can be achieved. timing, and advance can be adjusted I am sure, but certainly not on the fly, at least not with an mechanical pump. The true advantage to an e-pump, would be the ability to change these things with a programmer, as they are controlled electronically by the PCM, and TCM. giving too much fuel at any engine speed will produce coke, and black smoke tuning your pump so that this occurs is detrimental, black smoke is cool to look at but is bad news for your pump. Although it could also mean a problem with your turbo "not enough air" black smoke may be produced with larger plungers machined/installed, also important, the rollers play an important role in fuel delivery, advance, to the best of my knowledge, is controlled solely by an advance ring which turns as the motor turns to a certain amount. An example, the rotor turns at lets say 1000 rpm's the advance ring will slightly move advance, at 2000 it will move a bit more advance, but doesn't rotate entirely. If you pull your pump apart, or remove from the engine use a marking tool "my pocket knife worked" to mark the rotors position on the case and in relation to installment. Also have a "very" clean location to tear it apart. I am not saying clean room here, but the object is for it to not have any dust, dirt, sand, hair etc. get into the inner-workings of the pump. having some alcohol, acetone, diesel, or other clean solvent around will be good, I use paint thinner, and have it in a shallow aluminum pan with a lid "for fumes" you can disassemble, and drop these parts in for cleaning and inspection. I'll get more to that later. Also dust free rags or lint free cloths are an excellent idea. Till next time.

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The simple answer is yes, so far. The 6.5 pump will work on a 6.2, N/A it will probably have some smoking issues, because of too much fuel, and a difference in advance/timing. you could also use a 6.2 pump on a 6.5 with problems with it running too lean, directly related to plunger size advance/timing. remember, the 6.5 flows more air and some are forced induction making them more volumetricly efficient. less fuel from smaller plungers in a 6.2 pump coupled with smaller inner dia. lines is a rather big fuel restriction in diesel terms. The rotor should bea able to be taken from an e-pump 6.5 turbo diesel, and put into a pump from a 6.2 and work, and that is what I am here to prove or disprove. Also to give more insight into how these illusive things work/how to tune them. Clear as mud???? good!