If I wanted to replace a 6.5 with a rebuilt engine, what would be a good choice?
 

After looking into the 6.5 I see it is a problem child. If I were to get a used diesel engine to rebuild, what would be my best choice? is there any issues with putting a non computerized older engine into the body? Thank you all who help!

You need to define that a little better.

Are you looking for the cheapest price?

Are you looking for the most reliable block?

Daily driver?

heavy towing?

etc, etc.......

You can drop any 6.2 into a 94+ truck.

You will need to swap over a few things like the crankshaft reluctor, harmonic balancer, etc and a few "gotcha's" like the 6.2 NA injectors are different threads (in the head) and lengths than the 6.5's, oil cooler lines are different sizes depending on years, etc......

6bt 12v cummins :D

I am thinking of a good old block, daily driver. Like a 300 Turbo Diesel. I think I might rather have the strait 6 inline 300 & do some mods to make it work. What would a good year be for that? Would it be possible? I want to get away from the computer also by using older block. What combo block & heads would be good? can you mix & match like on gasoline? I had a 327 with 305 heads in an old 4x4. This is my first diesel & I want to stay with diesels. I like the look of the 96 extended cab also. So I wouldn't mind getting an old engine to rebuild. I hear the 300 inline has a good power-band so I thought it would be a good choice. Maybe put a twin turbo on it to max out a smaller engine? I am not looking to tow, but would it be possible with a 300 inline 6 twin turbo? Just in case?

a mercedes 300?

So you want to swap a non gm diesel?

Easy enough, everything from cummins 4/6bt's to isuzu 4/6 diesels have made their way into the gmt400 chassis.

Can't say about a mer though. Bit anything can be done with enough time, money and determination.

Only things I can think of off the top is a way to run the 4l80e (can be done with a standalone controller for around 500 bucks), sourcing hyd power for the hydroboost brakes (power steering pump) and a mating adapter for the engine/transmission.

Other than that, it's just good old hacking and fabbing bits and pieces....



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Well, What would be a good choice for a some what easy drop for for my truck? I want to stay with a smaller engine & have a turbo or 2. Also on my truck on the fuel filter housing where on the side there is probably a water sensor, when I cleaned the filter housing I took it off & put it back on, can these get air through them? Do I need to replace the o-ring? Thanks for all your input!

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Cummins Diesel Engine For Sale, item number 876 - diesel engine motor.com
What about something like this?

None are "drop in" easy.

You're mating an engine and chassis together that were never designed to be.

That being said, "easiest" would probably be a 4bt/6bt since it's reasonably popular swap.

Things like mounts and adapters can be bought ready to use. But you'll still have lots of fabricating to do. Those conversion parts you can buy aren't cheap either.

Are you talking swap here because you have a non running 6.5 with air in the lines?

If so, I'd fix the 6.5 rather than go through the misery of a swap....especially if your not experienced at that sort of thing.

Swapping engines is not an easy or inexpensive job.....

300 inline 6 cyl diesel ? I think you're confused on that one :humm:

That would be a turd even if it had 4 turbos:td:

Could I put the turbo from my 6.5 on a 6.2?
the problem was not air in the line but the lift pump not pumping enough. Rewired the lift pump, way more fuel, but still only ran a couple of miles before dying. I did restart & drive about 50ft. then drained batteries trying to restart. could it be bad fuel injectors? it ran fine until i put the used fryer oil in it mixed with kerosene. then i keep having the same problem. I can start it every few days & it will idle fine. Tear up my lawn fine, drive up & down the street fine. after I stomp on it every-time it cuts out the same way. It is a mystery to me.

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If I put some long trips on my new pmd would it cause it to die early? I do have a new one on from a chevy dealership, but have made a few 800-900 mile round trips on it. The pmd would get so hot sometimes it would heat the wires on the pmd relocater, it is in the cab now. Could this be due to an overworked pmd?

If you don't have the pmd mounted on a very large heat sink with the proper thermal pad, you may be experiencing a failing pmd.

You shouldn't have it mounted in the cab It needs to be outside, out of the engine bay, and in some relative airflow for enough temperature delta to strip heat from it.

A properly set up pmd and heat sink will only be slightly warm to the touch at the worst of times.

Iirc, Stanadyne rated the original pmds for 85c max sustained temps, the newer redesign for 125c. That's internal temperatures, not what you feel with your hand. It needs a proper heat sink to strip the internal heat away quickly.

Your symptoms do sound like a failing pmd.

Pull your obd codes....


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Back to the original question I have a 6.5 stock block with 231xxx miles its time for overhaul but could i drop something better bigger stronger in this truck is just for play, im looking for pure 100% power i always thought a cummins engine with an allison stick trans would be nasty any thoughts on combos that would work in a 98 k2500 chevy?

:hijack:

[QUOTE=great white;888410]If you don't have the pmd mounted on a very large heat sink with the proper thermal pad, you may be experiencing a failing pmd.

You shouldn't have it mounted in the cab It needs to be outside, out of the engine bay, and in some relative airflow for enough temperature delta to strip heat from it.

A properly set up pmd and heat sink will only be slightly warm to the touch at the worst of times.

Iirc, Stanadyne rated the original pmds for 85c max sustained temps, the newer redesign for 125c. That's internal temperatures, not what you feel with your hand. It needs a proper heat sink to strip the internal heat away quickly.

Your symptoms do sound like a failing pmd.

Pull your obd codes....



Thank you, I did take mine back to the dealer. I also took the lift pump back to Orily as it was not working. I did have trouble before it went out with the truck cutting out & having to pull over & let it cool. There has been alot on my plate since then & had forgot about it. It was sounding like a failing pmd to me also. So, how can I best set up my remote pmd? Do I just drill holes in bumper to put screws through? I want to make it the best for it. Thanks!

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Took my pmd back to dealer that is. got a new one & will test out truck monday.

Buy a Heath diesel PMD replicator kit.

Around 500 bucks.

7 year warranty.

He has sold a truck load of them and hasn't had any failures that I know of except for one Bill told me about that finally failed at 10 years of service.

Basically; Never worry about it again.

That's what I did.


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6.5 or 6bt for unaltered power

6bt

Was that a typo? is it a replicator or a relocater?

Arrghhh!

Damn iPhone!

"Re-locator"


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