95 6.5l stalling out an shuts off about 30 min
 

i need some help here about my 6.5l! let me know what ya think is wrong with her. heres what all ive done to it. ive replaced pmd with 6ft harness and cooler brand new,#9 resistor, brand new lift pump, new op sensor,new coolant temp sensor,new intake air temp sensor,new boostr control sensor/switch, brand new harmonic balancer,new crossover pipe, new water/fuel filter and new fuel lines,new air filter. o.k. heres what it does. ill start it up and drive ta town which is probably ten minutes and while im in a store or gas station ill leave it running. ill get it in it and take off and it spits and sputters and smooths out. now! if i go for a 30-40 minute drive and i stop somewhere wether i leave it running or shut it off and start it up and take off it starts fine and when i take off itll start buckin and spitting and sputterin and if i ram it to the floor shell shutoff eventually! i could use all the help i can get. im pretty good mechanic but this ones got me stumped after replacing everything but the injection pump! im just wondering if that is what it is before i go and buy it and it just be a hidden sensor somewhere? i know one of you diesel guys can tell me exactly if that is what it is! please help!!

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today i pulled the intake manifold off and pulled the old pmd off of the injection pump put it on the heat sink plate under bumper where i had the new one an took it for a spin and the same things happened after a half hr ta 40 mins of drivin it just shut down. started back up run like crap got it home an let it cool down a bit and it did it again. if anyone has an idea of what i beed ta do ta fix it please let me know. im up for tryin whatevers left. thanks

sounds like a fuel issue

my truck did the same, but it was the fuel lines. is the fuel filter manager cracked? check for fuel in the valley. could have a leaking return line or a bad injector

oil sending unit bad?
 

I have had a bad run in (pun intended) with the oil pressure switch on back of driver side block. If it fails you will not hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds after shut down. I keep a set of jumper wires and a 3/4" wrench in the truck because after each failure especially on a low tank of fuel. I have had to pump the system back up, vent filter and release vaporlock by cracking loose an injector til it fires. I am thinking of wiring in an indicator light and an over ride switch to make sure fuel lift pump is running and injector pump is pre-primed.
We are just finishing up head gasket replacement and should be running this weekend.

ya i have a switch mounted on my dash running to my fuel pump i turn it on when i start it an off after i shut it off. i ordered new injectors for it two days ago. im gonna replace them and them with marine injectors and do the glow plugs at the same time and see what happens. and ill post back when i get it done. thanks for the help

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does anyone know what size the injector socket is ? ive heard that there longer than a deepwell. if i knew the size i can cut it an make one cheaper than buying one. that a way i have one made for when my injectors show up. thanks!

DONT PUT MARINE INJECTORS IN YOUR TRUCK

and its a special socket, you can call heath diesel they do a parts loan

why not marine injectors? ive got a monster exhaust on it. and 3" crossover

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whats wrong with marine injectors? are they bad ?

You can run marine injectors if you want.

They're not the best choice though.

You'll get little to no HP increase (as some less than ethical resellers claim) but you will get higher egt's.

Stock bosch injectors are the best choice in pretty much any street driven 6.5.

I'm just over the 200 RWHP point before hitting the WMI on stock injectors. Those are very respectable numbers for a 6.5 and getting anywhere near the 250RWHP mark is damned near impossible and would be prohibitively expensive.

Making more power in a 6.5 isn't as simple as dumping more fuel in. You have to manipulate everything from boost to timing to pressure. More fuel without adjusting the rest just gets higher egt's....

ive got a turbo master and hi flow air filter and 6 inch exhaust from turbo back with 3 inch crossover pipe and chip. and gauges. ill just keep an eye on it. the exhaust i put on it really helped it compared to the 4" that was on it. ive never got it even hot enough to really be too concerned about the new injectors. runs alot cooler with 6" exhaust. sounds good too

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ill put a picture of it if i can figure out how to post it

This should be interesting considering the exit on the turbo isn't even 3" and no one has been able to get a bigger downpipe in the space that's there.

I've got a 2.5 crossover also. That's about all that will fit in the manifold stud space.


6" turbo back and 3" crossover, eh?


Yes, pictures please.......:pca1:

Upload them to photobucket and then paste the [img] link here.

Works great.

ya its pretty neat the stuff you can make if you have your own machine shop and are a certified welder. lol. and if your a union millwright for over eleven years.

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its an mbrp for a duramax. you can order one for around 650-700 depending on the tip u want. mines a 7" tip. just takes sum time to cut and weld an make an adapter for your turbo it comes with a 4" down pipe just cut your turbo end off an weld it to your 4"-6" flare after u cut it off. an throw the 4" in scrap pile an take your 6" elbow cut it weld it solid to your 6" flare measure your degree down put that in your vise heat it with torch put a cold wet rag on the side u want to bend in a bit and itll pull the the bend wherever u want and if u cant get enough just cut out angles an weld it up. i posted pics of it. hard ta see its dark out