6.5TD black smoke and slow acceleration... help...
 

hey guys, last night i decided to change my valcover gaskets so i did . and reassembles the upper intake with new gaskets. this morning i took is out and i was accelerating really slow with alot of black smoke untill it reached a good rpm like 2500-3500 then it had like amazing power.. can this be a waiste gate issue. i went through all my vac lines and can figure it out....:/ i have a video bellow show the waiste gate actuator mouving when i rev it. i tried unplugging the waiste gate and seeing how much suction there was to see if the vAC PUMP was working and its like i can just to say feel the suction. let me know if its normal....


seems slow to me... let me know please! thanks:c:

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Just checked vaccum at waiste gate ... Getting 0 inhg... Tested it at vacuum
Line at silonoids and getting 2 inhg ..., bad vacuum pump?

could be, did you kink any fuel lines replacing it?

Nope lines werent bent at one spot. Its was a gradually bend, showing that i have no inhg coming from the vaccum can be causeing black smoke ... Im pree sure anyways lol

do you have boost? you could have a leak in the intake or turbo lines..

See at the beginning where you can move the wastegate arm by hand?

The gate is supposed to be hard shut at idle and there's no way you can move it by hand on a properly working system. The gate is mmoving when you rev the engine because the exhaust is pushing it open and bypassing the turbine.

So, you have "0" boost at all times.

With no boost, the truck will smoke like a battleship smokescreen as it is overfueling. You EGT's are also going to be through the roof as you end up with fuel still burning as it is pushed out on the exhaust stroke into the turbo exducer and exhaust

There are couple things that could be the issue:

1. Boost actuator solenoid
2. Vacuum pump
3. Wastegate vacuum pot
4. vacuum lines.

So assuming it worked before you took it apart and now not, it's probably something you removed/installed while doing the valve covers. With that in mind, here's my guesses:

You hooked the vacuum lines up backwards at the vacuum solenoid that's located above the drivers side valve cover on the bracket (see the connection to your valve cover job?). Especially easy to do if they're not the factory lines with the factory push on vacuum fitting (ie: lines have been replaced and they're not the orange and black plastic ones that GM originally installed)

Next guess would be the vacuum pump is on it's way out. A healthy pump pulls around 15-20 in/hg. According to your post, you're pulling 2 in/hg (ain't cheap, expect at least 100-150 bucks).

Last guess would be the vacuum solenoid has gone "tits up". This is the component located above the drivers side valve cover that the vacuum lines go to. This component is very prone to failure. There's a little check ball in it the the solenoid uses to control vacuum to the wastegate. they are prone to rusting and sticking or not sealing. Expect around 50 bucks.

Check that your vacuum lines are connected to the solenoid first. It's costs you nothing to check.

The other option to all this is to head on over to Heath Diesel and order up a 'turbo master". It takes the place of the entire vacuum system and makes the wastegate a mechanical system. You can remove the vacuum pot, the vacuum solenoid and the vacuum pump all together. Then the turbo works or it doesn't. No worrying about the vacuum system ever again....

Good luck.

Thanks for the amazing reply..:) i picked my self up a real vacuum gauge and tested right at the pump an its only pushing out 2inhg, im assuming the pumped failed at bad timming during my valve cover job. I went to buy a new pump and tried to turn the shaft on the new pump and couldnt . The old pump i was able to do it easily, soo im 99.9% the pump let go on me ..:p and as for replacingthe system with a mechanical waste gate... I cant , my truck is vin s and has egr.. I will be getting a mechanical waiste gate after the new pump is intalled so it can run egr . I know i can change the intake and pcm to remove egr but that money i doonot have atm:p will let u know how it all turn out tonighf when i change the pump , again thanks for the help:):jump:

True enough, an "s" will code without the egr unless reflashed.

I'd load up a standard "F" program for ya (I've got the software/hardware to flash OBDII 6.5's) but I rather doubt you're on the island of Newfoundland......

No im located in ontario canada haha

Close, but no ceegar.....:tttt:

Still, closer than most. Most guys are south of 49....

What is ur location..? And with ur flasher can u reflash a program into it ?