94 suburban 6.5 turbo wont start
 

just quit driving down the highway wont start back up and has a pretty signifacant oil leak any suggestions it would be greatly appreaciated

Where's the leak at? Might be a low oil pressure shut down is why it quit. :humm:

well GM will not shut down do to oil leak it well just shut down if PMD is bad gave us little more info on what happen

i might be wrong but i dont think 6.5's have oil shutdown on them. kind of stupid since they only hold like 6-7 liters. i remember someone cooking a daily rental 3500hd after the turbo feed line broke when i used to work at ryder. i dont even think the buzzer comes on. (cant really blame the guy for not looking at the gauge constantly) kind of a stupid design. i know the ecm connectors (if a 94 is electronicly controlled) sometimes make a bad contact or something intermittantly and will cause it to die. how bad is the leak? how much oil is left in it? if it turned over right after it happened and sounded normal when cranking it probably didnt lock up and the leak could be a fluke.

no 6.5 's do not have oil shut down on them if you run it low you blow a motor

it ended up being the crank sensor but now my issue is gettin the sensor out of the block

did it break off ?

if so drill small hole in what left and screw in it pull it out

yea when i tried to pull it out the wires broke off is there a washer or o ring i need to worry about

think there a o-ring on it

wait, so that whole OPS and LP thing is false where if your oil pressure goes low the truck wont shut off?

No truck will not shut off it just tie in to one other in case off a roll over it shut off the LP but the injector pump will still suck fuel on it own and stay running a very poor set up from GM again


here little info read to gave idle why

What does the OPS have to do with the lift pump? Doesn’t sound right does it to have oil pressure tied to fuel does it? Well, some think that it is a fail safe that in case your engine ever lost oil pressure, it would shut off the lift pump so that engine would stall. Guess what? If you read a little bit ahead of this paragraph, you’ll find 'dat ain’t so'. The real reason why this circuit even exists is because of an accident. In case you should be in a wreck, the last thing you would need is to have your lift pump going to town pumping out that precious, expensive, fuel all over the accident scene. After all, should you be bleeding and having a thumpin’ head - the last thing you’ll be thinking is “Hey, I just paid $4.00 a gallon for that, somebody get a shop-vac!”

Why would the OPS not allow my lift pump to work? Well, from time to time, or shall we say in the corporate world, from dime to dime, some decisions get made. Some for the good, and some for the good of the keepers of the money. The OPS has a set of contacts inside to power the lift pump. This set of contacts are not heavy enough to carry the pathetic amount of current to the lift pump. Sad, I know, but true. So, what ends up happening is your lift pump works fine, but the OPS gets smoked, and then it quits. You think the pump is bad, but it’s not.

Can I just eliminate the OPS? Well, be careful, it is a safety device in some people’s eyes, and to the rest of us, a pain in the rump. Eyes, rump, pick your part. Anyway. If you just “jump past” the OPS, then your pump will run all the time. Not just all the time, but ALL THE TIME. Christmas and Easter included. It will stop when your batteries are dead. Because, while you are grocery shopping, that pump is running. While you are down for a long winter’s nap, it’s pumping. Doesn’t matter if the key is on or off, it’s pumping.

You can make up another circuit and repower it some other way, but be careful how you do it. Some methods have kept the truck running after the ignition is shut off and keys in pocket.

oh, so it will just work like as if the fuel pump was intermitting power