engine oil cooler lines
 

I was wondering if the lines I can buy at the parts store will last any time at all. I think my lines are leaking at the crimp there the rubber hose starts. Somewhere I thought I read on here that the new ones are not much better as far as leaking. They were not easy to get out so I would like to do this only once.

i was looking around to do the same thing,and i think i might end up making my own. i found a place called lubrication specialist and they have a kit. some of the sponsors here might a kit also,but i haven't gotten that far. i also read somewhere that you can cut off the crimped part and put a flare on the metal part and slip the hose with 2 clamps on each end.i might go this route for now.

yeah lubrication specialist and pmdcable.com both have good oil cooler line kits. i got pmdcable one and i enjoy it very much. a year its been on and no leaks so far

do like i did i kept my oil cooler put new fittings in it and had new lines made it was lot cheaper to do

just put plugs in and throw the factory oil cooler lines away thats what the radiators job is to cool down the pickup. cummins dont have oil cooler lines

i wouldn't throw away oil cooler on 6.5 it needs it

two totally different engine designs with different oiling systems. a 6.5 needs an oil cooler

I just took them apart and put new hose in them with double clamps at each end got that idea from ricansdiesel . started and ran for about twenty minutes no leaks have not run down road yet more pressure may make it leak ?? well see

hi i've just bought a gmc 6.5 td and i've got an oil leak at the same spot, the oil lines from the oil cooler. Im looking for the best way to replace / repair it. does somebody have some tips?

I have the same problem, I'm gonna take them to a local hydraulic shop and get new made. It really is a bad design by chevy to seal them up the way they do. My Hydraulic shop is going to make them like a O-ring sealed hyraulic fitting, the oring seals on the out side on flange of fitting. May cost more but garaunteed to never leak.

here good write up on how DIY


Reusing Your Stock Oil Cooler - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

does anyone have a list of the parts needed to diy. this write up is kind of incomplete and confusing, all i need is the list of fittings.

I can't help you with the fitting sizes. I removed the crimp at the rubber hose and replaced the hose with new hose clamps, not the best fix but it stoped it from leaking. Maybe I will get new ones made when my money tree starts bearing fruit again lol. Maybe you should start a new thread and ask Crazy about the fittings and where to get them. I am sure he will know.

From Frozen boost:

AN Male to Male Reducer, -12 AN to -10 AN Silver
2@ $7.98

Stainless Steel Line 45° Adaptor, -10 AN Black
2@ $25.98

PTFE Braided Stainless Steel Lines, -10 AN Black, per ft.
10@ $39.90

AN to NPT Adaptor, -10 AN to 1/2" NPT Black
2@ $7.98

Stainless Steel Line 90° Adaptor, -10 AN Black
2@ $25.98
Sub-Total: $107.82

Stainless Steel Teflon Fuel Lines

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Methanol Fuel Line

10AN Adaptor for Stainless Steel Lines

AN Braided Stainless Steel Lines


Nitrous Oxide Braided Stainless Steel Adaptor

Aluminum -10 AN Fittings

Thanks, this will save me a fair amount so i can afford more upgrades

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are these year specific?

oh i was just guessing at 10ft line you may need more or less

you wont need 10 feet a little less

The length for my truck comes out 50" and 53" so 103" so 8 1/2 feet, 10 feet gives you a little room for mistakes The best way to do it would be to cut them 5' each, Put a straight fitting on the line then thread them onto the Engine block 90s then you can route them about where they are going to go, I always wrap the braided line with tape then cut thru the tape and line leave the tape on until you are ready to put the fitting on, that keeps the line from coming unbraided
I used Adel clamps in place of the plastic clips that mount on the driver side Motor mountAttachment 42573