valve cover gasket replacement
 

I am working on a 97 chevy 6.5. The valve covers are leaking badly. I pulled the intake and loosened the injector lines at the pump and took them loose from the injectors and turned them up in the air. This is on the left side. Removed valve cover, so far so good. Now to the right side, the turbo is right in my way. Does this mean I am taking the turbo and what I believe to be the waste gate off? The left side was leaking badly. The right side is not so bad. I am thinking about leaving the right side alone. My first diesel, so I'm scared lol. Just wondering if someone can tell me if there is any way to change the right valve cover without taking exhaust turbo and waste gate off. :s:

sorry but your going to want take the exhaust manifold and turbo togetter it make so much easy also spray so lube on the cross over bolts so the don't break

don't put gasket back on they will be leaking with in few months go get some of that good black RTV from GM or some kind sealant that can handly high heat

Also be careful you don't bend the fuel injector lines

bleeding injectors
 

I just posted a message about changing valve covers and the need to remove turbo waste gate and exhaust. Thanks for the response Crazy. Just thought of something else. Is it necessary to bleed the injectors? If so, how is this done? Once the turbo is reinstalled, it is not possible to get to the injectors on the right side to crack the lines at the injectors for bleeding? Thanks alot, you guys are great.

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I just posted a message about changing valve covers and the need to remove turbo waste gate and exhaust. Thanks for the response Crazy. Just thought of something else. Is it necessary to bleed the injectors? If so, how is this done? Once the turbo is reinstalled, it is not possible to get to the injectors on the right side to crack the lines at the injectors for bleeding? Thanks alot, you guys are great.

Yeah, should've spent the extra time to REMOVE the injection pump. Bend the lines, then it's all day hunting them down, then the expense to buy them.

But use high temp black RTV as stated above.

just make sure you have good batteries it take some cranking to get started once it start you could do 1 or 2 thing

1 just let sit there idle it will bleed it self out

2 you can crack each line open at the injectors


if was me just let idle it don't take long bleed out

when i changed my injectors i just did bled the drivers side as that is the easiest. then i went to start it and after a few mins it idled like normal

From everything I have read, Permatex Right Stuff - Gray or Black, In the Cheez whiz can or caulking gun style is the best for this application. Beware the one minute working time. Also the working temp is something like 40 to 95 degrees.