PMB???????
 

Ok i have a 1995 chevy 6.5TD. i have been on here a few times and everyone thinks it is the PMD. And i dont know alot about diesels yet so i m learning alot as i go. Before i spend the 300 buck this is what i tried. First the wait light only comes on for a split second when you turn the key. So that pointed me to the glow plug relay. I replaced it and it started right up. I htought it was fixed. It didnt stay running for long about a day and a half. I parked it and it wouldnt start again. Now before i did that it would start sometimes and sometimes wouldnt. So i dont know if the relay has something to do with why it started or it was just one of those times it desided to start. People was saying about checking the grounds i did all that. It has new batterys. And about a year ago i had a IP put on it. I just checked to see if there was any codes in the computer and this is what i got. DTC31-EGR Control/baro sensor circuit low(high Vacuum). DTC42-Fule Temperture Ciruit Low(high Temp). DTC57- PCM 5 Volt Shorted. DTC58-Tranmission Fluid Temp Circuit Low. DTC62-Turbo boost sensor Circuit Low. I dont know if any of these show what the problem is. I m kinda worrued i have alot of problem. If i could just get it going i could do all the little stuff as i go. When i try to start it there is no smoke or anything like it isnt even tring. The LP is pumping well it feels like it is. And if you crack open the top of the filter housing and turn the motor over it pumps the fuel right out. Thats al li can think of right now. Just dont want to spen the 300$ if i dont have to.

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PMD sorry typo

First ? is where is the PMD if it on the pump or in front bumper on heat sink and that where you want it if on the pump have to say it gone south on you

Second i would check all the grounds again with that many codes one time is most likey bad ground and clear all codes and see if they come back

Third check the LP out E- BRAKE then turn key to on only then put in drive then open the T-Valve and fuel should come out if not then have bad OPS or LP just cause hear the LP doesn't mine it working

there are grounds at rear right side engine should be 3 wires and should be ground strap from back engine on bell housing to fire wall and from the bell housing to the frame same side one ground on the inner fire wall right battery and each battery to the intake

It is still on the IP. I just learned about moving it a fe wweeks ago. I wish i would have know before i had a IP put on. I would have had it moved then and maybe saved all this. I redid the 2 grounds coming off the battery and the ones on the passenger side head back by the fire wall and the one going from the cab to the frame. and the one going to the IP and the one for the LP is there anymore i missed? I want to it to the bumper but havent found a long enough wire harness. They sell the kits to move it up above the motor but doesnt seen like that would help as much as the bumper.

think PMDCABLE.COM sell them or you make one

You said had new IP put around yr ago maybe it still under warrant

I didnt think of that. I will have to check thanks. I know it was around a year. i hope not any longer. If not it should still be then.

PMD?
 

Sounds like something similiar to my problems Started a couple of times from cold but mostly wouldn't once it was running it would start the rest of that day no problem and run like a charm. Next day almost fires but wont run Change PMD--same change IP, bleed pump and nothing changes The scantool identified most of those same error codes you mentioned The sensor errors can mostly be traced to the pressure sensor on top of the upper manifold. It seems to give three different signals depending on the conditions ( atmospheric pressure with key on but engine NOT running..... egr pressure with engine at idle.....boost pressure under load and GM at least in Canada list it as a boost sensor) and it greatly effects the timing if that sensor is out or wonky

PS If anybody knows how to reset the ecm after it has adjusted everything to the max trying to correct for a bad sensor I'd like to know

disconnect batteries for 5 mins and pull the ECM fuse that should clear all codes

Hey Crazy, if i want to move it from the intake to the front bumper do I have to buy a longer connection or do you have a way to make one

3rd one down on the side


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