replacing the injection pump
 

i am having injection pump issues and am going to replace it, my question is can i just take out the old one and put the new one in place and go or is there more to it then that??? thanks for the help

are sure it IP and not PMD , LP and OPS most of time it not the IP

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should ask you why do think it a IP ?

well i replace my pump myself. it was a job but i got it all back together turned the key and it fired up and had no problems. but make sure your lp is also putting out the right psi. i didnt and i think thats why my pump just went out

i have also see bad LP burn out PMD are you getting any code most of the time bad IP will put out code but PMD won't

Is your PMD still on the IP

It is not a rocket science, and don't let mechanics scare you. Its not that bad, just take your time, make sure you don't drop the IP gear drive bolts into the timing cover when you're unbolting them and you'll be ok. Don't let any dirt to get into the injectors when you remove the lines. Plug the intake holes with some towels, and be careful not to drop them inn. But before you do that, like the guys mentioned above check your LP and the OPS. I also thought it was my pump, but bad LP and starter. Good Luck man.:c:

Here some info on swapping IP

6.5 TD Injection pump removal/instalation guide wtih pictures.
I figured id create a primer here telling you how to swap out your injection pump including photos on relavant steps along the way. Because yes, everyone likes pictures.

Pic1


First off you are going to have to remove the upper plenum and the intake manifold. You will want to seperate these pieces. If you are careful the gaskets will remain in tact, if not they are less than 5 bucks for the upper plenum, and less than 15 for the intake manifold, You arent going to blow your budjet on gaskets here.

The bolts for the upper plenum are 10mm, there are 6 of them. The Bolts for the Intake manifold are all 15mm YOU WILL NEED A DEEP SOCKET! As a precaution as you remove the bolts, place them in a zip lock bag so they do not disapear, I promise it will be no fun trying to find them if you do. As well when removing the intake manifold, be very cautious of dirt and debris that may have built up around the intake manifold, this FOD can be loosened as you remove the intake manifold and fall down into the ports on your head that if not retrieved will cause damage to your engine.

Once you have the intake manifold removed, if avalible take a shop vaccum and suck up all of the garbage around the ports, then stuff rags in them to keep anything from falling down them by accident. You do not wan to pull your head because a washer fell down the port!

Next it will be time to remove the hard lines running from the pump to the injectors. Before you break anything loose though you need to find and label the #1 injector line on your pump, and label each line as it comes out! Failure to do so will cause serious serious headaches later, and possibly hours of trying to make everything fit. Also be very careful not to bend the hard lines are you remove them, if you do, it will be very very difficult to reinstall them if not impossible.

All of the injector lines take a 3/4" wrench, I find that it is easier to use a standard open end as opposed to a proper tubing wrench that is less flexible.

Pic 2

Having both a drop light and a flash light will come in very handy when working on the hard lines at the injector on the turbo side, You will have to losten them from the top side of the engine as the turbo and exhaust pipe and manifold block all other avanues, if you have thick hands as I do, it may be advantageous to remove the heat shroud on the turbo, doing so will give you about another inch of room to work.

Be very careful when working on these lines at the injector not to damage the rubber return lines running from each. They are very difficult to replace if you do, you may find yourself having to pull the turbo.

Once you have the lines removed it is time to move on to removing the pump its self. First you will need to remove the Oil Filler neck from the front of the gear drive cover. The two bolts holding it in place take a 13mm socket, and the neck will then pop out with a little tugging and twisting.

NOTE: I find that the best approach here is to remove the upper fan shroud, fan, and the serpentine belt giving you plenty of room to work.

Once you have the oil filler neck out, you will need to use a 1/2" drive with a 18mm socket to turn the crank rotating the engine bringing each of the 3 bolts that go through the gear into the drive hub on the injection pump.

Be very careful when removing these bolts, if you drop one down inside the gear drive/timing cover, you will wind up having to pull the cover, or worse pulling your oil pan.

The best meathod is as I have pictured here, you remove the bolt but you keep a fair ammount of pressure on it keeping it in the hole through the gear, you then slip your finger in the hole and use it to hold the bolt into the socket as you pull it out. Installation is done in the same manner.

Pic 3&4


Once you have these bolts out, it will be time to remove the pump its self, before you do you will need to refereince the timing of the pump. The best spot I have found to do so is on the ridge along the top side of the pump mounting flange as pictured below, you can see the mark I made referenced by the orange arrow.

Pic 5


Once you have made this mark, start with the two lower bolts, This way you arent trying to hold the pump up while you remove these hard to reach bolts as it gets rather heavy. All 3 will require a 15mm wrench.

Once the pump is removed do not spin the drive hub at all!!!

You will want to set the old pump next to the new pump and turn the drive hub on the new pump so as that the dowel pin is in the same position as on the old pump, this will greatly aid instalation.

Pic 6


Also I take this opportunity to remove the factory mounted PMD and mark the number 1 port on the new pump with a zip tie.

Pic 7

When reinstalling the pump, put the top bolt in the pump mounting flange first, this will make the bottom two that are very difficult to reach much much easier. As well, be sure to lign the reference mark you scribed in the gear drive housing with the corner of the mounting flange on the pump.

Before you worry about hard lines, you want to put the bolts back in the pump drive gear, once again using the finger meathod to insert them, and using the 1/2" drive 18mm to roll the engine over. Failure to install these bolts properly, or at all for that matter can lead to a catostophic failure.

Next comes the hard lines. I find the best meathod is to start at #3 and work your way backwards, This way you put the lines on the bottom of the pump first, Make sure before you tigten one end of a hard line down that you have the other started, or getting them all back on may become impossible.

for reference, here is how the pump is laid out.

Pic 8


Once the hard lines are back in place and you are sure they are all properly tigtened, Make sure you remembered to hook up your electrical connections and the fuel line coming from the filter housing to the IP, then set the intake manifold back in place and put the bolts back in thier holes just barely finger tight, then start in the middle going side to side working your way out as you tighten them gradually so as that the ends of the manifold do not pigeon toe leaving a gap in the center.

Once you have done so, reinstall your upper manifold, serpentine belt, fan and shround and the truck should be ready to run.

To Crazy if you are still out there
 

I'm new to this type of mechanical networking but Crazy appears to know his stuff. My 1995 Chevy 6.5 I bought brand new. It has 135,000 miles. The dealer replaced 4 IP all under warranty. All 4 times the symtoms were the same, it limped home. This time was different. I went to the mini mart shut it off came back fired it up took off and died instantly. attempted restart but just cranked. I bled the top of filter, plenty of fuel flow. Called the tow truck. After waiting for the tow for 15 minutes tried starting and fired right up and ran till tow arrived, had it towed. Got up next day cranked but no start. Ordered brand new module from dealer installed and nothing. no fuel to the injectors. Ordered a new module harness installed no fuel to injectors. No one here to trouble shoot in my area but the dealer and i'm not doing that. The intake is still off and I guess I'll attempt a new injector pump myself with Crazy's instructions. Any advise on simple electric checks before I go any further? Best place to buy a replacement pump? Will I ever be able to trust this truck if I do get it running?

Crazy--Nice write up, Thank you, great job!! How long to do this appx for the first time at it? I do have some experience, but am not a mechanic by trade.

thanks.

wow checked out the site and ummm how come there prices are like half or more off then other places?

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and could you replace the pics.. the ones that are up dont show anything (they dont work) thanks

I have a 1999 with electronic injection pump.
The guy I ordered the pump says I need a so called "Tech II" computer in order to get the new pump running and calibrated. I am far from any professional workshop. Will the engine run, if I just replace the pump without computer calibration?

I was able to mark the location (scribed a line from the IP onto the timing cover) and put the replacement in the same location. Truck runs fine as far as timing. Even if you're a little off, you can adjust it fairly easily a degree or two either way. I would say that a Tech II is not an absolute requirement if you're careful about the location.

Just remember, clean, clean, clean, CLEAN!! A "mechanic" I work with was doing a IP on a 94 6.5l and was a slob bout it. some little piece of dirt got in the injector line and made injector 3 hang open and it leaked and now I'm rebuilding it only after 45miles of driving.. It's not hard. just be clean. don't be cheap, get new injector lines. but don't blow them out with shop air(shop air is filthy). I use WD-40 or PB Blaster to clean the lines. Even new ones must be cleaned.

Thanks. I'll try that. The instruction written by "CRAZY" should explain everything, I hope....

Any quality scan tool will work for timing setting provided it displays TDCO value.

A KOKO procedure will force a timing relearn on an OBDII truck.

I have found when using a snap on MT 2500 if you enter the model year as 2000 no matter what year the truck is gives a more accurate reading for the TDCO value.

Stock setting is -0.25 to -0.75
Performance setting is -1.50 to -1.94

Autoengiuity or Carcode are both laptop based scan tools that will allow a TDCO relearn on command and are worth having if you plan to do your own maintenance.

I do not believe it is worth the risk to think the scribed line is good enough on any electronic IP replacement,a proper TDCO relearn needs to be done.

Hi, that just made my day...:ouch: I don't have a MT2500... I have a smaller hand held scanner, but I don't know whether it "can do KOKO or TDCO" because actually I do not know what that is. Sorry, I'm not really a qualified mechanic ... The problem for me is that in the country I'm staying (Namibia), the next workshop that can do that kind of work is over 500 miles away. So if I do it with the scribed line, will I be able to drive that far and get it "calibrated" / TDCO-ed there?

My advice would be to get on ebay and buy a snap on mt2500 with a module good to 2000,or carcode or auto enginuity for your laptop/desktop.
EG:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

AutoEnginuity

OBD-2 Vehicle Explorer Scan Tool Browser

If you plan to do your own maintenance,you will really need a quality scanner.

KOKO is a procedure to make the ECM enter a relearn mode:
OBD2 KoKo procedure [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

TDCO is a a value assigned to the timing-Top Dead Center Offset,it is displayed in the scan tool data of a decent scan tool.

500 miles is a very long distance and depending on driving conditions could harm the engine.

Is there a US military base nearby where you could ask for help from the motor pool?

Do I have drain the coolant before taken the intake off a 6.5

No the intake is seperate from the frt coolant crossover manifold.

Just replaced the injector pump on a 93 gmc 6.5 and I am having a hard time starting the engine. I have blead the the fuel filter, cracked the lines at the injectors and still not geting fuel come out and yes I am cranking the engine over. I just was wondering how long dos it take take to bleed or am forget something Thanks

It can take a while.

Be sure that the electric lift pump is working-the oil pressure switch send power to it when oil pressure is high enough.

Thanks that was the problem it was plugged in but it wasn't making contact .The little black box on the side of the pump is that the positive possession sensor

The black box on the side of the electronic IP is the FSD/PMD.
fuel solenoid driver
pump mounted driver

The black box on the side of a mechanical IP is the TPS-throttle position sensor.

Thanks I just replaced my IP mechanical and now when I am driving the truck seems to go fast by it's self and or slow down like it looses power,then pick up power. It also jerks like the tps is cutting in and out . Can the tps be my problem.

I would look more into air getting into the fuel.
replace the IP fuel return line with clear diesel rated fuel line and with the engine idling safely-watch for bubbles.
Bubbles indicate air is getting into the fuel supply.

The TPS should only be an input for the trans computer.

Great write-up on installation of a replacement IP. Question I have is how does one install the DB2 injection pump so that it is in the right order for fuel delivery. Is it possible to have it 180 degrees out - still with pin in the slotted hole? My son put a new IP on his 1991 GM 6.2 but said he rotated the crank after he had IP off because he could not get holes to line up. Therefore if he rotated the lower crank 360 how does the IP pump know where it starts off? He has it all back together, has bleed fuel lines, filter, etc. Installed new fuel filter, and glow plugs. Also looked at return fuel line while pumping and there does not appear to be any air in the fuel. Truck just will not start. New IP was put on with the exact same place on timing line. Which happens to be basically the factory scribed line.

By the way the IP pump was originally changed because the diesel engine ran away on my son. He said it was crazy. He stopped it by stuffing a jacket into the intake. He got lucky and stopped it quickly. Local GM shop quoted us approx 3000 to fix and said IP pump was problem. SO we bought a rebuilt one and changed it ourselves.

Sorry for the dumb questions. I am new to working on diesels and my son is also just learning. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

Yes he likely has the IP 180 degrees out since the IP turns at 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft.

He would have been better off turning the IP drive flange to line up the holes.

He most likely needs to remove the balamcer,waterpump and timing cover to line up the timing marks properly now and maybey even inspect the timing chain while there,also inspect the balancer and drive pulley for deterioration and replace the timing cover oil seal and perhaps even the waterpump?

Google 6.5 diesel military manual,join the forum that has it online and download it for free for the detailed pictures and instructions.