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-   -   94 K2500 6.5 Turbo diesel (https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-6-2l-6-5l/55307-94-k2500-6-5-turbo-diesel.html)

DuramaxBen 07-26-2010 10:12 PM

94 K2500 6.5 Turbo diesel
 
Hey guys I found a truck w/in 30 miles of me that is a diesel.Has a few things that need fixed and I'm kind of worried about how the guy who owns it installed the PMD himself he also installed a new block heater. What are some common problems or things to look for on the PMD problems? He says it has a u-joint going out on the drive shaft but that isn't to hard to replace I don't think. Well here it is. I offered him $2,000 as is.

http://siouxcity.craigslist.org/cto/1862970206.html

Any input would be appreciated.

purcell87 07-27-2010 01:06 PM

I like it. :jump::jump::jump:

Woody35 07-27-2010 05:07 PM

pmd problems usually start out as a "fishbite" where it seems like its misfiring. sometimes they will just stall. then you can start them right up again. some have also reported that the truck will accerlate at full throttle. sometimes they just stop working. thats the syptoms i have heard of. for 2k it sounds like a nice deal as long there isnt a ton of problems.

DuramaxBen 07-27-2010 06:26 PM

He installed the PMD on the firewall so I was told in an e-mail from him.

purcell87 07-27-2010 07:07 PM

The best place for the PMD to be installed is out of the engine bay. Perferably right behind the front bumper....

Woody35 07-27-2010 11:19 PM


Originally Posted by purcell87 (Post 595756)
The best place for the PMD to be installed is out of the engine bay. Perferably right behind the front bumper....

x2 thats where mine is

DieselSlug 07-28-2010 08:12 AM

Its all about general maintenance. Move the pmd like woody said. It will be the cheapest diesel you will ever own parts wise vs other diesels out there. Not to bad looking, u joints arent that bad.

highmilage 09-18-2010 07:23 PM

u joints are easy, as soon as i bought mine i replaced and relocated the PMD and its been a great truck, 260k miles and still goin strong, id say as long as its a moderatly clean truck and not too many issues 2 grand isnt that bad

rocketdeere 09-18-2010 07:37 PM

injector pump on 94 6.5.. its been while since i did one on 6.5, hard?

2MuchJunk 09-19-2010 09:56 AM

Its not the worst thing to do but you better dedicate at least one full day to it.

Woody35 09-19-2010 10:02 AM

need a scanner for this and special pump wrenches


CAUTION: Never engage the starter motor to rotate the engine when the injection pump is removed as severe engine damage will occur. With the injection pump removed the pump driven gear could jam in the front housing by engaging the starter motor, resulting in a sheared crankshaft or camshaft gear key and possible valve train damage. Always bar the engine over by hand to avoid internal damage.

NOTE : Removing the fuel injection pump and injection lines requires removing the intake manifold.

Removal Procedure


1.Remove the negative battery cables.
2.Remove the intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Removal .
3.Remove the injection lines. Refer to Injection Lines . See: Fuel Injector Line\Service and Repair
4.Remove the fuel inlet line from the injection pump.
5.Remove all necessary harness connectors and hoses from the injection pump.
6.Remove the fuel return line at the top of the injection pump.
7.Remove the oil fill tube.
8.Remove the grommet for oil filler tube.
9.Rotate the engine to gain access to the bolts (1) that hold the driven gear to the injection pump. Access is gained through the oil filler neck hole.
10.Remove the driven gear bolts.
11.Remove the injection pump flange nuts. Use wrench J 41069.
12.Remove the injection pump.
13.Cap all open lines and nozzles.
14.Remove the flange gasket.
Installation Procedure


1.Install the new flange gasket on the injection pump.
2.Adjust locating stud (1) to proper position to match with the slotted/elongated hole in driven gear.
Important: Be sure the locating stud (1) on the injection pump hub goes into the slotted/elongated hole in the driven gear.



3.Install the injection pump making sure the locating stud is positioned within the slotted/elongated hole (3) in the driven gear.
4.Install the injection pump flange nuts. Tighten
Tighten nuts to 40 Nm (30 lb. ft) .

Important: All driven gear bolts should not be torqued until all bolts are installed. This will allow for proper alignment of all bolt holes.



5.Install the driven gear bolts (1). Tighten
•Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb. ft) .
6.Install the grommet for oil filler tube.
7.Install the oil filler tube.
8.Install the fuel feed line at the injection pump.
9.Install the fuel return line to the top of the injection pump.
10.Install all necessary harness and connectors.
11.Install the injection lines. Refer to tags on lines. Refer to Injection Lines . See: Fuel Injector Line\Service and Repair
12.Install intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Installation .
13.Install negative battery cables.
14.Adjust injection timing. Refer to Checking/Adjust Injection Timing . See: Adjustments


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