6.2 heads vs. 6.5 heads
 

Do the heads on a 6.5 flow more air than the heads on a 6.2? If not, is one better than the other? I have both, and idk which to put on my engine.:humm:

i think the first couple years of the 6.2 the heads were the best flowing after that i dont know. what year are both your heads

6.2 glow plugs will hit the 6.5 turbo setup on some trucks........

i think the 6.5 is a 94. idk about the 6.2, theyre millitary

6.2 civvy and 6.2 mil-spec stuff is the same.......

6.2 Heads are the better flowing ones. Pull out the old Die Grinder and you can make them flow some more.

Agreed, but even stock they flow better, so I'd use the 6.2 heads if they are in good shape which I'm assuming they are

Well Yeah they are stock to stock the better heads. But just saying if you have the Time even Gasket match the ports get some better flow. :rocking:

yeah might as well do it right if you're gonna do it!:rocking::ok1::c: these smilies on here are so much better than other places haha

HAHA Yeah the are. If you checked the last Diesel Power Mag they had the .5 with Sequential Twins that is using Ported 6.2 Heads So goes to show yo that 6.2 is the better way to go. Next thing to worry about is the 6.5 block it's not exactly the strongest. :argh:

both of the blocks are junk......those engines make really good boat anchors.....leave it fairly stock or your gonna shoot the crank out the bottom of the block......

well id proably ruin them if i tried to port them...but thats what machinist friends are for, right?:c: ive heard the newer the block the better...true, not true? the best ive come up with so far, is ARP main studs, head studs, and rod bolts.:argh:

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so ive heard. which was why im blueprinting it, i.e. my hopes is itll fight itself a bit less. and i could leave it stock...but wheres the fun in that?:booo: besides, being most folks agree with you that they are boat anchors, i got 1 6.5 and 2 6.2's for free

sweet...that should be enough weight to keep a good size boat from drifting off.......

I have no idea who makes them but they make a whole new 6.5 6.2 block that doesn't crack and you can get the whole short block for like 3 grand Means New Crank New Rods New Pistons Cam and Gear. Ill look it up see if I can find it again.

sweet, thanks. granted thats 3k more than i have now...but that gives me time to blow a couple of these up and get a job

i know a guy that has 10 rebuilt 6.2's setting in crates at 300 a piece........rebuilt at Fort Polk in Louisiana.......THE best army rebuild shop......comes with injection pumps and lines......

heck for 3 grand you can put a p-pumped cummins in it and never look back, allthough my first diesel was a 83 chevy 4x4 4 speed and i put a full banks turbo kit and rigged in an intercooler and WOW!!! what a differance well worth the money, truck is still running w/ over 300k and trust me as a rodeo wagon it has had no easy life, :U: it still pulls its weight as a back up wagon,

thats not a bad price at all, but i want to build the engine myself. then when the block breaks and throws the crank, ill be like "hell yea, i built that" lol

6.2 heads also have tighter chambers (more compression) since they were a naturally aspirated engine! Also DSG makes a stud girdle kit for these engines (DSG 65SG-12mm) that dramatically reduces the chance of lower block failure!

I realized this is a old thread,but does anyone have the part numbers for the arp main studs and rod bolts for the 6.2 diesel?I'm rebuilding a 6.2 and I would like to have the part numbers for the arp fasteners if this is possible.I see that Patches has used the arp fasteners so if anyone can help,i'd surely appreciate it.

Thanks.

I built mine with 6.2 block and 6.5 heads. Works great!

6.5

Trans upgrade?
 

Just bought this 82 suburban 2x4 with a 6.2 106,000 miles,,think i have the turbo 400 trans (D L1 L2) Do I want the turbo 700 with overdrive?

no i would swap in a 4l80e for the most strength. 700r4s are known to be kinda weak

HOW DO I FIGURE OUT WHAT TRANS IS IN THE TRUCK? IS IT IN THE VIN CODE?

rpo codes in the glovebox

Ok got my Suburban to run finally,Had to do street mechanics in the freezing cold for the 3rd consecutive day,The final fix for the air in my fuel lines headache today was ,,,,,,,A small 5" piece of fuel hose connecting the output side of secondary filter to the injector pump inlet,,,,What a fkd up place to find a worn-out piece of tubing ,directly under the intake manifold,,,,,SO NOW MY NEXT QUESTION!!!!!
WHY ARE THERE EXHAUST FUMES IN THE CABIN?
NO HOLES IN FIREWALL OR FLOOR,,,,(TRUCK IS 95% RUST FREE)
NO LEAKS IN EXHAUST MANIFOLDS OR PIPES

POSSIBLE CAUSES THAT I HAVE COME UP WITH
1)IVE HAD TO PUT QUITE A BIT OF FUEL ADDITIVE IN THE TANK TO CLEAR UP THE FUEL SO IT WOULD BURN,,(TRUCK WAS LEFT WITH A 3/4 FULL TANK FOR 8 MONTHS BY THE MORONIC OWNER WITH OPEN FUEL LINE'S) COULDNT DRAIN 30 GAL ONTO STREET,,,LOL SO I TRIED TO PUT A BAND-AID ON THE SITUATION BY PUTTING IN 2 QUARTS OF THE LUCAS ADDITIVE (INJECTOR CONDITIONER ,1 QUART OF 911 AND 3 SMALL BOTTLES OF HEAT,,,,,NOT ALL AT ONCE BUT OVER 3 DAYS OF STARTING AND RUNNING THE ENGINE
(ALSO SPRAYED SOME STARTING FLUID IN INTAKE,,,,JUST A MIST TO START MOTOR A COUPLE OF TIMES,,DID I HURT MY MOTOR?

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HEY LOGANSFORTH! I THINK I WANT ONE OF THOSE CRATE MOTORS,,WHO DO I NEED TO CALL?

Check the exhaust pipes, if they are rusted out fumes will get into the cabin.