6.5L center turbo to side mounted
 

I have a 1986 K5 (M1009) with a 6.2L with banks turbo.

The truck runs great, has good power and is pretty quick relatively speaking. Only issue is the engine started weeping oil once I added the turbo; I have plans to pull the motor and reseal everything.

But I recently picked up a low mile 6.5L diesel out of a 2001 H1 that went in for a duramax/allison upgrade. I have a set of rebuild 6.5 heads that I was going to put on my 6.2 when I pulled it.

My questions is could I or should I pull the heads, intake and turbo from the center mounted from the 6.5 H1 engine and add the 6.5 heads with my J-code intake and banks turbo to that 6.5 block?

Has anyone done this? Is it worth doing? I know I have the oil passage at the back of the engine to block off, but is there value in 6.5 block/heads or the 6.2 block?

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How much room do you have to go side mounted, the 6.5 side mount turbo has a little more oomph than the center mounted one does, plus you then have ability to go with a better turbo than any GM offerings, I prefer the A Team turbo myself over any of the other options out there.

The truck already has the banks sidewinder kit on the 6.2, so fit isn't an issue.

I am figuring the 6.5 from the H1 with a new set of 6.5 turbo heads + my IP, j-code intake w/ the sidewinder kit would be solid.

I like the idea of swapping the turbo for a TE06H-24V from a 7.3 ford banks kit. But any other recommendations?

Just curious if anyone has done this. I have been searching the google and can't really find anyone making any reference to it.

Thanks and here is the truck sitting on 37's and 4.88s.

John


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Better would be a F code intake from the 6.5 I think, I don't recall anybody using the 7.3 turbo on the 6.5, ones I've seen used are the OEM GM-8 (best of the GMs for the 6.5 flow a little better than other GM turbos), possibly some fitment issues with the 7.3 turbo on the 6.5 exhaust manifold, most common conversion is Holset HX-35 or 40 but you have to make adapters and downpipe connector, als0 you need to figure how to manage boost/ wastegate control, some use a spring loaded lever attached to WG lever arm & set/adjusted to keep from overboosting

As before I prefer the ATT turbo A-Team Turbo | , reason it is a "plug and play install other than shortening the inlet tube on the upper intake, and lengthening the oil drain tube that is the only fabrication required.

it is a non waste-gated turbo, some site say it has too much lag...no it has a different spool up than the waste gated ones, ESPECIALLY IF using a factroy fueling program, all turbos regardless which one used have to be "matched" to the program electronically for optimized performance, or if running a mechanical IP fuel limiter adjustment needs to be turned up.

One side benefit of the ATT it flows enuff air to support 650 hp not that our 6.5s will get there, flow is what makes power not psi attained, in fact too much boost on an older 6.5 with TTY head bolts (ARP Studs highly recommended) can be bad Karma.

High boost also = high IAT requiring post turbo chage air cooling anything above 12psi boost needs and IC or WMI, wastgated turbos are internally more restrictive and tend to "peter out" for flow or create higher back-pressures on upper end or when towing where one works a Diesel, higher back-pressure =higher EGT and lower mpg.

I think the j code intake with A Team Turbo and your gearing will be a great match.

As far as the engine swap, a 6.5 block, new 6.5 heads, and gapless rings should work out good!

Thanks for the input.

Got the truck put back together and have some issues.

I ditched the center mounted turbo optimizer engine and found a 6.5 Navistar GEP engine. Pulled it apart and sent to the machine shop. Engine looked good so we reassembled with new heads, bearings, oil pump, timing chain, ect.

I kept the injectors off the H1 optimizer block. Just need to be pulled apart and cleaned. Used a new marine mechanical IP DB2833-6284 rated for 250-300 HP. I was searching for a 4911 but ended up with the marine pump. Got new steel IP lines as well.

Fab'd up a new steel metal upper intake mated to a ported low profile HMMV intake. New 4" 304 stainless straight pipes off the 3" down pipe.

I used the banks turbo off of the sidewinder kit. People don't like it but I thought that a smaller turbo with no waste gate might be worth a try.

That was interesting.

The turbo spooled so fast I had to take my foot off the pedal at 20 PSI. The truck was running lean as I had not turned up the IP or tuned it yet. I just put in the IP, got it fired up and took it for a few passes.


I need to find a bigger turbo as this turbo is working way too hard. A bigger turbo turning 20 PSI will push more air and have more HP.

Hoslet HX40 sounds like it could be my next choice. They made one with a T3 flange that should drop on the banks manifolds with some adjustments to the intake and downpipe flange.

I emailed the A Team Turbo people twice and have not gotten any else.

Any other ideas or recommendations?

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Intake


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4" exhaust

You emailed Leroy at leroydiesel.com and didn't get a response? That's very odd.

The banks turbo will over spool on a turned up 6.2 pump.

Suspect it will go to leaking oil soon enough again from the looks of the CDRV re-works.
Appears to be a draft tube thats hooked into the vented oil filler neck, most ineffective.
The CDRV needs a consistant vacuum signal to operate properly.

That's not even vented now that I see what you're talking about, it's just giving it a blow by reach around so to speak.

Now if one or both were a draft tube pointed to the ground then it would at least relieve the blow by pressure.

As said it works best if you can hook the CDR hose into the intake PRE turbo and have a provent to catch the oil as it passes through.