need some help 96 3500 chev 6.5 won't start
 

All right to start changed PMD to remote location put new injectors in new glow plugs I have bleed the the system got good spray out glow plug holes checked for voltage at glow plugs was good it tryst to start but just not quite some help here please I have checked the power to and from computer to Pmd was good

flyer;1081235]All right to start changed PMD to remote location put new injectors in new glow plugs I have bleed the the system got good spray out glow plug holes checked for voltage at glow plugs was good it tryst to start but just not quite some help here please I have checked the power to and from computer to Pmd was good. Now the PMD was calibrated number 9 I don't now if that would make it not start? If it was not the right calibrations

The PMD resistor is not your problem. #9 commands the most fuel of them all so you're good to go there.

How did you bleed the fuel system? I would check to make sure your lift pump is working. These engines are a real b!tch to start with air in the system and a dead LP. With a working LP, loosen an injector line and crank with the shifter in Drive (if automatic), or pull the Fuel Sol fuse and crank if a manual. Crank till you get a spray from the loose injector, repeat for the all the easy to get to injector lines. You can also make a LP jumper out of a paper clip if you want, search for it on dieselplace.com

Were you having any problems prior to replacing all those parts? Is it cranking over quickly? If it's not, check your battery cables, terminals, connections, and all grounds. Good luck!

How many psi is the lift pump supposed to have? The truck had motor rebuilt in California then pulled heavy trailer to Washington along the way when stopping for fuel it didn't want to start wait awhile it started up next fuel stop was worse took 2 hr before starting same thing again on 3 stop when got to Washington parked truck for night next day would not start truck ran good no loss of power

A stock LP should have around 7psi at idle. The hot start problem sounds like a worn IP, the trick is to pour cool water on the IP if it won't start hot and if it starts after that, you know the IP is on its way out.

If you have a hard spray out of your injector fittings you may have a bad injector or injectors causing your hard start. Loosen all injector lines at each nozzle one at a time and crank it over watching the line as fuel comes out. If any one sprays out harder then the others that nozzle is clogged or broken in side. If you have three of these your engine won't start just one will make it hard.

Does not make sense?

With injector lines loosened all fuel applied to the injector cones out around the threads no matter what unless an injector is struck wide open.
There will be no difference notable in fuel pressure or flow from any injector lines when loosened.

DO NOT USE EITHER on ANY diesel engine with working glow plugs!
is how that should read.

With glow plugs disabled small amount of either is ok.

Alternatively WD40 is an acceptable starting fluid with operational glow plugs.

To the OP
A worn injector pump is a good diagnosis of no start hot,as well as a failing PMD often is the case as well.

No start cold is usually slow cranking speed and/or non working glow plugs,but can also be PMD related or air intrusion in the fuel system..

I was not aware of the WD-40 thing.:humm: Thats good to know........

Non stick cooking spray is easy on a diesel as well.

Sorrywhen I said loosen them I should have said to jut crack them loose so the line is still thight on its nozzle seat. This will allow the pressureto build to the point of unseatting the poppet inside the nozzle but not enough to open the return. So if you have a hard spray you have a stuck injector nozzle. At least thats the way I have always checked them and when I found one spraing hard and sent it to be rebuilt they would tell me it was stuck and if you get no fuel keep loosening the line untell you do then you know its stuck open. All nozzle's will dribble when tested this way.you only loosen them just off their torque lock to start with.

I never heard of using cooking spray? as a starting aid.

Afraid I still can't accept what you are saying,the flow is miniscule from the IP and any place for liquid to escape is going to be less pressure than poping the injector.

The pop pressure for a 6.5td is over 2100psi,and over 1750psi for a non turbo,as soon as any fuel leaks past the line/nut there is no chance to unseat the poppet in my mind.

Afraid I still can't accept what you are saying,the flow is miniscule from the IP and any place for liquid to escape is going to be less pressure than poping the injector.

The pop pressure for a 6.5td is over 2100psi,and over 1750psi for a non turbo,as soon as any fuel leaks past the line/nut there is no chance to unset the poppet in my mind.