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-   -   Where to buy fuel lines (https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-6-2l-6-5l/120297-where-buy-fuel-lines.html)

JJ Diesel 04-06-2014 04:06 AM

Where to buy fuel lines
 
Going to replace my fuel lines coming from the tank on a 1995 chevy k2500 extended cab long bed.

Where is the best place to buy these from?

Should I use metal or rubber, what size.

Should I replace tank sending unit while doing lines. Also what about the tank sock, replace or do away with, if I do away with it what type of filter should I use.

Anything else I should do while doing this.:w2:

AdrenalineJunkie 04-06-2014 12:47 PM

I am assuming old lines were hard lines. I would replace with new stainless hard lines of same size. You can build your own if you can get hold of flaring/bending tools. For stainless lines, it is suggested to go with single flare. Take your time with stainless lines, and do a little research. Stainless is more difficult to work with, and is harder to get a proper seal, but is very durable. Make sure you are flaring to same specs as old lines (there are 37 and 45 degree flares as well as single and double angle). Definitely replace the sock if you are in the tank. They are a common restriction point. It really comes down to may factors though. Budget, time, and skill to name a few.


I plan on doing fuel cell to all stainless single flare lines to an airdog lift pump/filtration setup. Also, dont forget about the line from lift pump to motor. Return lines as well. It all depends on how far you want to go.

Hopefully this gives you some more stuff to look into. Just my 2 cents .

JJ Diesel 04-06-2014 05:17 PM

Yes they were hard lines. Plan on replacing all the lines, wasn't sure if I needed special lines for diesel. I have read where some people do away with the sock all together and wasn't sure if that was the way to go or not. Thanks for the reply.

Repomatt 04-07-2014 09:07 AM

I looked around a bit couldn't find any replacement lines for our diesels as I wanted to change mine cause the previous owner used rubber from the LP to the FFM...

If you swap sending unit make sure you use an AC Delco don't waste your time with aftermarket units. I used an airtex and the sick plugged up on less than 1 year. Also I removed the sock once I installed the AC Delco unit. I am running a screw on style filter before the fuel pump. It's all napa stuff, I can get you part numbers if you would like

JJ Diesel 04-08-2014 12:20 AM

Thanks, if you have part numbers that would be great. will probably remove my sock and put a filter in also. Are you having problems with your rubber lines.

Repomatt 04-08-2014 06:45 PM


Originally Posted by JJ Diesel (Post 1056991)
Thanks, if you have part numbers that would be great. will probably remove my sock and put a filter in also. Are you having problems with your rubber lines.

No I have not had any problems with the rubber lines. I just need things to be "right" so thats why I was looking to swap them out. They are fairly low pressure so I would not worry about that...

I will be down my shop tomorrow and I will get you the part number for the filter and mount. Would you like sending unit as well?

JJ Diesel 04-08-2014 08:18 PM

Yea that would be great.

racer55 04-09-2014 09:39 AM


Originally Posted by AdrenalineJunkie (Post 1056745)
I am assuming old lines were hard lines. I would replace with new stainless hard lines of same size. You can build your own if you can get hold of flaring/bending tools. For stainless lines, it is suggested to go with single flare. Take your time with stainless lines, and do a little research. Stainless is more difficult to work with, and is harder to get a proper seal, but is very durable. Make sure you are flaring to same specs as old lines (there are 37 and 45 degree flares as well as single and double angle). Definitely replace the sock if you are in the tank. They are a common restriction point. It really comes down to may factors though. Budget, time, and skill to name a few.


I plan on doing fuel cell to all stainless single flare lines to an airdog lift pump/filtration setup. Also, dont forget about the line from lift pump to motor. Return lines as well. It all depends on how far you want to go.

Hopefully this gives you some more stuff to look into. Just my 2 cents .

Stainless is meant to be flared to 37 degrees single flare and used with AN fittings.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Sending unit and LP o-ring barb style fittings for use with rubber diesel rated fuel line:
papco part number 905-352 =3/8*4 inches 16mm nut
papco part number 905-350 =5/16*4 inches 14mm nut

Dorman:
part #800-170 3/8" straight
part #800-231 5/16" -90 degree
__________________

AdrenalineJunkie 04-09-2014 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by racer55 (Post 1057161)
Stainless is meant to be flared to 37 degrees single flare and used with AN fittings.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Sending unit and LP o-ring barb style fittings for use with rubber diesel rated fuel line:
papco part number 905-352 =3/8*4 inches 16mm nut
papco part number 905-350 =5/16*4 inches 14mm nut

Dorman:
part #800-170 3/8" straight
part #800-231 5/16" -90 degree
__________________



Not trying to hijack your thread, but I'm confused??? Could you please explain why stainless must be flared to 37 degree? Yes 37 degree flares are for AN fittings(and hydraulic applications if I remember correctly), but stainless break lines are flared to 45 SAE fittings correct? It the 37 degree flare done to reduce stress on the stiff stainless lines? Please elaborate. Thanks

racer55 04-10-2014 01:54 PM

The stiffness/fatigue is the reason as you said for the 37 degree angle.

The 45 double flare and bubble flare are designed to compress when assembled,stainless is too hard to seal that way so the other parts needed along with the 37 degree single flare works better and is re usable.

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