ok I have 2 questions this time
 

First question, where exactly is the vacuum pump located on my 97 k3500 6.5? And is it very difficult to replace?

Second question, does someone make an egr delete for the the 6.5? Or do these motors have to have the egr?

Any help is greatly appreciated thanks to all

Vachuum pump is located lower passenger side front of engine and if that rig is vin code F it has no EGR Oh and that pump is not very hard if you have had any mechanical experience

The truck does has the f vin code so no egr and I do have quite a bit of mechanical experience just not on a diesel haha but thanks for all ur help ill definately have to look for it when I get the chance

Vacuum pump when looking straight at the engine is the lower left pulley. Its real simple to do, just need to get light down there. I was able to pull on off an engine just laying around and replace the one on my engine in about 2 hours not knowing really what I was doing. All it is, is three bolts that you have to move the pulley to get a good grab on and just take out and remove.

Like stated before F vins don't have egrs. Only some of the half tons had them.

Thanks for all the information everyone on this site has been very helpful, as for my truck I honestly haven't had time to look at it all I know is it's throwing 2 codes (PO236 and PO238) and someone once told me it could possibly be the vacuum pump so I was just trying to get everything figured out before I go spend the very hard to come by $ I do get haha on something I don't need

I had a problem with my vacuum pump, the pulley locked up and I cracked the housing, what can I say, it just all that 6.5 torque:rocking:. After replacing the p0236 code went away and has yet to come back. Usually the p0236 code means ya not getting vacuum to the turbo, pull the vac line off the wastegate and fell it it sucks, you should notice it at idle. if not there is a boost solenoid on the driver side of the "Turbo Power" cover with the vac line from the pump runnin to it. If you get suction at the solenoid but not after, then its usually the culprit. But if you're not getting vacuum at the solenoid, then your pump is bad or your vac line is leaking.

Depending on what you want there are two solutions for this (vacuum pump failure), you can get a new/used vacuum pump or make a mechanical wastegate. For better mileage go with the new pump but you can get a lot more boost and zip out of a mechanical wastegate but most people lose 1-2 mpg.

You should be able to make a mechanical wastegate out of your old one if you can cut it in the middle and put a spring in there to pull the little lever thing up, stronger the spring, more boost, less mpgs. For more threads on mechanical wastegate search DIY turbomaster.

I did some searches and I have came to the conclusion it'll be better for me in the long run just to replace the vacuum pump mainly because I'm not comfortable enough in my mechanical skills to make the turbomaster, I'm pretty sure I could do it but I'm just not comfortable trying it

Yeah, that's exactly what I did and notice that it takes hills better and overall performance is greatly improved. I was able to pickup an extra wastegate so I might try making a turbomaster with the extra once a get a boost gauge so I don't overboost.

As for mechanical skills, if you keep a hold of the 6.5 for a while, they will increase tremendously:tttt:.

Well good luck.

You can also buy a turbomaster from Heath Diesel for slightly more than the cost of a vac pump and eliminate the problem forever.

I would suggest you do some diagnosis first on your trouble codes before spending any money.

Get a vacuum gauge and start checking for vacuum at each stage along the route,if the pump is working but the lines are broken you get the same result.

The wastegate solenoid is a common failure as well-also check the actuator for it's function.