6.5 issues
 

Ok guys, i am having really bad stalling issues with this thing. I have replaced the rubber fuel lines the go from the filter to the pump. and have replaced the lift pump. i have also got a heat sync for the PMD and have got a new PMD its self. I have replace the OPS switch and all 8 glow plugs and cold air filter. Please help!!! :scare2:

Where is the PMD kit located now?
Is the IP harness ground still on the IP where it must stay?
Does the instrument cluster die when stalling occurs but blower motor and radio still work fine?
Have you replaced the IP fuel return line with clear diesel rated line to monitor for bubbles?
Is the fuel shut off solenoid in proper working order?

i got the SS Diesel relocation heat sync and the ground wire is attach to the heat sync. the cluster will die and the blower will run and radio works, and i just got my lines bleed and the IP is supposely new but it looks rebuilt, and i dont know about the fuel shut off solenoid. how can you test the fuel shut off solenoid??

sounds like your ignition switch is on the fritz.

Hmmm, well thanks guys, u have helped me big time and help me narrow the part list down to 2 things
Fuel shut off solenoid
Ignition switch

If the cluster dies with the stall the Ignition switch is culprit # 1.

Hold the FSO and have a friend cycle the key-if you feel a strong click the FSO is likely OK-It has 2 wires on it and is on the frt of the IP looking like a stack of 50 cent pieces.

Get the IP harness ground off of the heatsink and back to the IP ASAP,use solder to extend the wire if need be,or better yet get a 6' extension harness and mount the PMD combo behind the grill on a rad support so yo the ground can go where it belongs on the IP and the PMD can have it's best chance at survival.

No matter what SS Diesel says-the intake is the worst possible location to mount a PMD/heatsink combo,take a picture for warranty purposes and then relocate it outside the underhood area.

Ok an update on it, I started it up today and ran just fine, and didn't shut down, and racer55 I don't have a manual, I have an automatic tranny, but it started right up so it's not ignition and warmed right up, I swear it has a mind of its own!! Do u think clogged fuel lines would caused this?? And also my tank hisses really bad but it's done that since the day I got it. Ik it's not a pressurized system but all of this started to occur after I straight piped it and put a 4 in to a 5 in stack.

No idea why you think the type of transmission is important?

The ignition switch can still be at fault,they are a multi contact switch with contacts carring power for different circuits:
1 carries power for the ECM,cluster,IP/PMD and a few other things-that 1 burns out and causes stalling.
another contact set powers the radio and blower motor as well as other accessories.
and another powers the starter when cranking.
You can have intermittent contact with a scorched set of contacts that will work then quit when they get heated up from high current flow.

Also sounds like you have a plugged vent in the fuel filler cap or the wrong type of cap if the tank hisses bad-you could be starving for fuel if the vacuum overcomes the ability of the LP to pull fuel-run with the cap looose or replace it with a diesel specific fuel cap.

My bad I thought u said clutch, but ok where is this ignition switch located at?? and I have replaced the cap like 3 times and it does it with ever single cap I get, so I just bought this vented cap from napa, so I'll see what it does!

IIRC the ignition switch is located on the lower end of the steering column.

The fuel cap should be clearly marked as a diesel cap,be it green in color or have a large D on it.