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Originally Posted by 2500HeavyDuty
(Post 148618)
Yeah you can change it from the underneath the hood going from the top, but this is the way i change mine, it is easier for me, its hard for me to reach down under there and do all that stuff, i have only full rotation in my right arm, the lefty is kinda bent :ouch:
Your more than welcome to post pics of how u change it from the top.:pca1: |
I mostly did it the way i did for people who want to try and do it them self for the first time and give them a lot of pictures and make it as easy as possible to remove he filter without bumping into anything and breaking it...
and not have to wait 2 hours for the dealer to do it :mad3: |
Not to mention the outrageous cost. :madd:
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Originally Posted by ajchuck
(Post 148623)
I would try to get some pics but I just replaced mine last month and don't feel like wasting fuel for some pictures:w2:. I would say do which ever one is easier for you to do. I prefer under the hood and others prefer going through the wheel well. As long as it gets changed thats all that matters. Just be careful when tightening down the bleeder screw that you don't break it! The truck will not start and it is a Dealer only part. Not cheap!!!!!!
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the bleed screw cost about $16 and i have a spare already i broke on off already never use a ratchet to tighten it :baby:
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1/2 inch or 13mm nut driver works perfectly on them, just be gentle. ima see if i can find a torque spec on it....
nope there isn't one, they don't even tell you to bleed the air out after replacing the filter in the service manual |
I tighten my stock unit with my fingers and I've never had a leak.:yeah:
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me neither
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But your running the risk of breaking yours. :dd:
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I never touch the bleeder screw. Just prime it, start it, it'll die, repump, restart, all is good. Never risk breaking the screw when it's never touched.
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