Any one know anything about Fanuc vac drives?
#11
The block number is A50l-0001-0109/M the other number on the block is EVL32-060d. It is a Fuji block and is rated at120A 600v. I am pretty sure they are trashed but would like to just make sure I am doing things correct because all this stuff can get pretty expensive quick.
I could be speaking of a HI-POT test. Not to talk dumb but the easiest way to explain it is you connect a small box that makes 1000v to each lead one at a time and it will tell you if you have no connection, a short, or how much it takes to pass power through it. You hope it doesn't spark buzz or shock the crap out of you. I know it should be hard to get shocked by it but most people aren't me. I could get shocked by a piece of wire laying in the middle of the room. So no its not fun to play with.
I could be speaking of a HI-POT test. Not to talk dumb but the easiest way to explain it is you connect a small box that makes 1000v to each lead one at a time and it will tell you if you have no connection, a short, or how much it takes to pass power through it. You hope it doesn't spark buzz or shock the crap out of you. I know it should be hard to get shocked by it but most people aren't me. I could get shocked by a piece of wire laying in the middle of the room. So no its not fun to play with.
#12
EVL32060D Photo: Enlarged
Ok. lets see how we can explain how to test it. first step is to disconnect it. (sorry, on a cell looking this up )
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
it's a half bridge darlington array, well 2 darlingtons used as a half bridge. usually when they fail they fail in grand fashion!
b1 and b2 are inputs from the controller thats the low voltage side.
I would leave em hooked up and use the meter to check for voltage at those 2 points to ground, if you have power there your controller is working!
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
solid state relays would wear out and go bad pretty fast switching at those speeds.
unfortunatly the diode test wont work for him on these blocks since they have the blocking diodes built in.
Ok. lets see how we can explain how to test it. first step is to disconnect it. (sorry, on a cell looking this up )
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
it's a half bridge darlington array, well 2 darlingtons used as a half bridge. usually when they fail they fail in grand fashion!
b1 and b2 are inputs from the controller thats the low voltage side.
I would leave em hooked up and use the meter to check for voltage at those 2 points to ground, if you have power there your controller is working!
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Could you just junk the transistor blocks entirely and use the control unit to energize solid state relays?
Using a meter with a "diode-test" feature is definitely the right way to check transistors, at least your common three-pin transistors. Most every meter nowadays has a "diode-test" feature.
Using a meter with a "diode-test" feature is definitely the right way to check transistors, at least your common three-pin transistors. Most every meter nowadays has a "diode-test" feature.
unfortunatly the diode test wont work for him on these blocks since they have the blocking diodes built in.
Last edited by Budgreen; 07-23-2010 at 09:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#13
Yep thats exactly what they look like. B1 and B2 are the inputs. So if I test for voltage there and all four of them have is would that pretty well insure the top board is good? If so that would be cool because I can pretty well test or figure out how to test anything else but that.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
#14
#15
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thatdude38
Diesel In Distress - Support Ticket
0
08-31-2015 05:22 PM