Anyone Good With Carburetors?
 

I have a holley carb on my CJ7. It has an electronic choke. The idle when the choke is on and way too high. I know where the electronic unit is on the carb but not real familiar on how to adjust it. anyone have some good info or web sites to check out so I can understand how the electronic choke works?

thx

I'm assuming it's the factory carb? If I recall, I don't think there adjustable? I'd being looking for a vacuum leak if it's idling to high.

no its an aftermarket HOLLEY carb with an electronic choke

Holley Performance Technical Service Department

Howstuffworks "How does a carburetor work?"

Carburetor Tuning the Scientific Way


This should get you started. If I had more time this morning I could talk you thru it, but all the info (plus much more) is in these links.

Hope it helps,

Dan


QUESTION: How do I adjust the fast idle on my electric choke?

ANSWER: To adjust the fast idle you will need to hold the throttle wide open ( without the engine running) this will drop a lever under the choke housing with a 1/4" screw in it. To slow it down turn it counter clockwise, to speed it up turn it clockwise.

thank you radio. I found the tech stuff on the Holley page shortly before you posted and it is model specific so I will have to look the model number up.

PM RTToys or Leadfootduramax. They are both Jeep nuts and have quite a bit of knowledge.

well see thats the problem. the carb in all actual reality is probably too big for the motor. but it runs fine with it and wouldnt have been put on a jeep if the person knew any better.

it is a 4 barrel carb on a straight six motor. But if the choke is resolved it would run ten times better.

Am not :w2: I just have bad jabits that happen to say JEEP on the side

Yeah, that 4 barrel is def way to big for a straight 6 (assuming that is the motor in it). If it runs fine other than idle, just go with it and try to fix the idle. If you wheel the biggest problem is bogging when you hit the gas or it stumbling in and off camber situation. Holley's are usually pretty decent for that though.

Yeah it isnt for rock crawling and I did try a little crawling and got on a really steep part and the carb didnt like it too much. the only other time the carb acts up is when you hit the gas and let off real quick on concrete or something with lots of traction. other than that its just a property beater and does really well considering.

my friend said he has a smaller holley carb that he would trade me, so I might do that but right now the idle definitely has to come down.

I'll get the model number tonight and see if I can match up a carb on Holleys site.

now the only other thing I have to figure out is what frigin after market cap and rotor are on this thing as I went to replace it and the one that was on there is much larger than the one I got from NAPA. the rotor didnt fit either so they might have put a whole new ignition system in

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hey lead foot you dont happen to have any spare jeep parts do you?
I noticed that someone removed the rubber brake reservoir gasket out so now it leaks brake fluid when I take it out and beat on it.

you dont happen to have one of those do you? or a stock steering wheel? the tiny little GT steering wheel blows

you could always swap a 4bt cummins in and then you wouldn't have to worry about the carb ever again:U:

If someone donated a good running 4bt cummins I would do it. lol

If your carb has side-hung floats it'll never be any good off roading.

Best best are the center-hung floats.

Sounds like all yours needs are just simple adjustments.

yeah it just needs the choke adjusted.

There are many people running 4bbls on 232's, 258's, and 4 liter AMC/Jeep 6's without any problems.

Your floats are probably too high and with the already-known idle speed adjustments, you might find other things going on, too.

All simple stuff, just takes time to dial them (Holleys) in.

Its possible someone swapped a HEI on there or did a wrangler TFI upgrade. Those are pretty common. If you can snap a pic, I might be able to help you more.

I don't, but RTTOYs recently acquired a CJ5 he is parting out and he might have some parts available. I don't know if he needs the steering wheel or not, but there was one with it.

yeah I'll get a few pictures tonight

thx!

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heres one picture.
http://www.truckporn.com/pics/albums...ormal_jeep.JPG

I also noticed that the intake manifold is made by clifford? is that a good intake manifold?

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heres some more

http://www.truckporn.com/pics/albums...rmal_jeep2.JPG

http://www.truckporn.com/pics/albums...rmal_jeep3.JPG

That looks like the Motorcraft distributor with the TFI coil.

You should be able to interchange parts off the Ford 300 six with that distributor.

Typical Holley 4bbl...is there a tag on it anywhere?

Clifford makes a popular aluminum 4bbl manifold for the 258. Pretty good piece as long as it isn't warped.

Is your exhaust manifold flange cracked or is that just the heat shield?

Whats them things plugged into the round blue thing?
http://www.truckporn.com/pics/albums...rmal_jeep3.JPG


:D

I think its just a heat shield but it has headers to so they may have seperate pieces. I wouldnt put it past anything on this jeep I'm finding little things all over the place. lol

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the number on the carberator is

list 8007 0418

Radio Flyer is dead on. Motorcraft with TFI. I have never run this setup so I am no expert on how to get the parts guy to give you the correct parts. You can prob get more specific help at 4WDH Online Community - Powered by vBulletin

Your carb is the 8007 series 390cfm 4 barrel. Can't get much more perfect for this application.

FWIW the Buick 225 V6 in my Jeepster came stock with a Rochester 2GC that flowed about 300cfm box stock.....so your carb is pretty close to dead on for a fairly stock 232/258. Get it adjusted and it'll be the cat's meow.

On your distributor, the cap is actually two pieces. The silver section under the blue "cap" should be screwed down to the distributor housing and probably is made of aluminum....could be plastic, but at any rate.

Worst case scenario.....go to your friendly local (competent) parts house and ask for BOTH PIECES--top and bottom--of the distributor cap, and the rotor for either a 1981 or 1982 Ford 300 six...tell 'em it's in a F150. FoMoCo did a changeover in those years, but the main thing is make sure you get the cap that is screwed on not clipped on.

From there, get some plugs wires that'll fit the cap, pretty much like what you have already.

Actually, It kinda looks like the '81-'82 300 six conversion is already done. For later, you can put any 300 six cap & rotor on clear up into the mid 1990's...they're all the same. Try one of those and see what happens. :U:



Happy wheelin'.....hope this helps,

Dan

QUESTION How do I adjust the fast idle on my electric choke?

ANSWER To adjust the fast idle you will need to hold the throttle wide open ( without the engine running) this will drop a lever under the choke housing with a 1/4" screw in it to slow it down turn it counter clockwise to speed it up turn it clockwise.

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Or look here for a PDF file of adjustments.

Dave

yup got that

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well I noticed las night that I gad gas leaking out of the throttle lever after shut off but not when running and also noticed that gas is still flowing into the carb when the truck is shut off.

I read Holleys installation/adjustment manual and I decided to take a look at the float levels. well the float level in the bowl was way too high. as soon as I opened the site plug fuel started pouring out. so I adjusted the set screw on top and ran out of adjustment and the fuel still poured out. I checked the one in the rear and it was a little low so as soon as I adjusted the set screw fuel started pouring out of the set screw. that cant be right. so I adjusted it until fuel level was correct on the site plug.
I shut the truck off and noticed the fuel being poured into the 2 barrels with the choke butterfly. I am not sure if this had happened all along or not. but the leak on the throttle lever has been happening for a long time. cause it drips on the header wrap which doesn't make me happy (fire hazzard) and the paint is off on the wheel well.

I also noticed that the carb doesnt kick down when the gas is pressed so it stays idling high for a very long time.
I also didnt get a chance to do any of the other adjustments.
does it sound like the carb needs to be rebuilt?

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thank you muchly!

Just wanted to say I got the cap and rotor yesterday and it all fit

thanks a ton guys

still got to dink around with the carb though

Good. Once you get the carb fixed, it should run good.

I think I got it to idle good but for some reason it wont kick down like its supposed to unless it does it on its own. I'll have to run it to make sure the low idle isnt too high or low

I might be able to trade my holley for a motorcraft 2 barrel plus the guy will send me a few $$.
would a two barrel perform ok? does the 4 barrels provide that much more power? I just cant get the thing to adjust right.
the screw that adjusts high idle does absolutely nothing and I think the float adjustments are gone

A lot of people say the motorcraft 2100 is great on CJ's. I only know one person myself that has used one and it never ran right and always gave him fits. Hard for me to say. Hopefully, someone else here will chime in with more info.

its actually a model 2150