sooo, celticnonic, you have a hybrid??? lmao just kidding man... sounds fun to install to me...

lmao no... that's in my car, not my truck ;)

168dB with only 1800w ? What kind of competition ? Measuring style ? Sensor used ?
Unless you measure inside the box, I'm having a very hard time believing.

EDIT: with 180 amps drawn from the electrical system (I'm assuming it's the max current consumption) you are around 70% efficiency, which is a cool dream for a Class A amp.

Oh so this has turned into a flame forum?

AdrianD, 1825w is the continuous rating of my amps at a 4ohm load at 20-20,000hz (925w of that is per channel which would take it to 2750w continuous at a 4 ohm load)... I never said they were all running in a 4ohm config as I do have two .5 ohm stable amps

you are correct in the assumption that 180 amps is max current draw

I am not here to pound my chest or to say "mine is bigger/better than yours" etc etc as it really doesn't matter to me whether or not you believe me and I have absolutely nothing to prove to you

The topic here is about someone having dimming issues whenever they turn up their audio volume... as a solution some are saying to place caps in line and some are saying to fix charging issues. I merely used my audio and charging system setup as an example of the issues I had with using caps prior to upgrading my charging system...

although they do help, caps will NOT fix an overdrawn charging system

agreed... :tu:

That was far from a flame my friend. Things that don't add up make people ask questions...same goes for truck power claims, for instance.

/offtopic.

i just got a heavy duty alternator when that happened and everything works good now

Anyone think it'd be a bad idea to run a separate AGM or SLA battery for the stereo system, use a battery isolator and mount the battery back right near the amplifier?

It'd allow you to run the stereo without idling the truck and you won't have to worry about a dead battery stranding you. Great for tailgate parties or at the beach.

Although I'm sure there's a drawback to my idea... Things always "sounded like a good idea at the time" and then a fire breaks out.

im sure it wouldnt be a problem just the battery would go dead everyon else

Hmmm,
real Class A amplifiers have a maxium power efficiency of 7% to achieve a permanent non switching output. Transfered into a 1825W system output this equals into a neat power consumption of 26.000W or 26kW and gigantic cooling surfaces to get rid of the convection heat!

How do you provide the needed power, Mr. Scott? :pca1: