Kicker Subs with a bose sound system in an 08 chevy will it work?
 

Ive got 2 kicker 12in CVR's and was wanting to put them into my new 08 Chevy, but it has a bose sound system alredy. Ive been told that this wont work any help is appritiated.

I would be concerned with the ohms differences... I have not researched Bose, but some factory systems use higher and lower ohm rates to run more speakers in the vehicle... And i'm sure just to make alterations difficult!

You can test the ohms on a specific speaker by using an ohm meter - terminal to terminal on the back of the speaker... I'm not sure if this would work with the lead wires or not (i would guess, no)... your reading should be a possitive number or the exact opposite negative number and typically will not be exactly 4 or 8, it will read for example 3.742 for 4 ohms ; 11.983 for 12 ohms, etc, etc... round up or down to the next whole number for the ohms...

Hope this helps in some way :pca1:

I know the ohms on my kickers are 4ohms. The bose however are 3.6 ohms. So it should work:w2:

Does the Bose system already have a sub amp ?

are you replacing the speaker(s) or adding to? replacing the speakers (as long as your ohms rates match) should do no damage... If you are adding to the system, then you run into problems... In these high-end factory systems, you might have a two or four channel amp pushing 8 or 10 speakers, controlled electronically within the amp/system...

I had a Monsoon system in my Firebird and the pro installers told me NOT to get new speakers... They said the speakers were designed for that specific set-up (air space, amperage, crossover points, vehicle road noice, and many other engineering points...) This has always stuck with me when upgrading... You can actually make things worse by trying to upgrade...

If you are adding subs, I personally would disconnect the factory sub(s) and test my ohms, IF they match the speakers ohms, then i would run them through and after-market amp... Chances are you have a single Bose subwoofer in the center console... It is probably ran as a bridged configuration, which means you have the power of both channels pushing the speaker... This can also make things difficult because it's an internal thing inside whatever is controlling the outputs...

Sorry to bring the bad news, but i just don't want to see you damage something designed to be the best it can possibly be within those parameters... Good luck! :pca1:

Airspace and crossover points are the ONLY real concerns. Crossover points will matter only if you use the existing crossovers.
But, if you add a component set for instance and it runs in the whole door volume, those concerns fly out the window.

The single most important thing is install. No matter what gear you buy, install will make all the difference. My install, in which I must have spent less than $1000 (half probably shipping costs) scored higher in sound quality than an install with very high end gear (=expensive). It's all in the install :)

Bose systems are mostly already electronic manipulated to sound "good".
Thats the main difficulty. "Does not work" is a cheap excuse for "not knowing" how to work with it.

Expensive systems can and will sound lousy with a lumpy, quick install. But an average system can sound excellent and will outperform a lot of way more expensive systems when knowledge and craftsmanship is combined.

Thanks For all the input. If you get any more info on the subject please message me.:tu:

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yes i has an amp with it but its not a monoblock.

Why not get a Monoblock amp that has high level inputs, and use the rear speakers as signals to the amp? Make sure the amp has a crossover or bass mode, and I think you should be set.