I just blew my headgaskets and cracked the head on the passenger side. I am a diesel tech and fabricator by trade. I have a 12V cummins out of a mid 90s f series bus. To do the 6.0 up correctly, it will cost more tham the fordcummins swap kit... Any advice is appreciated as to which is the better idea.

 

First piece of advice:

Stay away from fordcummins, and start looking on destroked's page. Destroked - THE Cummins Conversion Company : Home Page You will also want to talk to the guys at Beans Diesel Performance, they do these things for a living. I believe GOS performance to be gurus at this thing too. If you need to contact anyone that is...

I think it will be much cheaper and easier to just fix the 6.0 and bulletproof it the right way.

You can try to stuff the 12V in, it's been done. What trans would you use? What do you plan to do for power mods? That 12V will probably seem like a slouch pushing a super duty around compared to the 6.0 in it.

 

From all that I have heard and researched you will not be happy , Fix the 6.0 like I am doing. I have 2 cracked heads. I will post up some pics on my thread here soon.Trust me I feel the pocket book pain but in the end we will be happy campers again.

 

I know if I was going to do a cummins swap, it'd be a 5.9CR first choice, and possibly even a 6.7CR.

 

Would you really do a cummins swap? Or was that a really big If?

 

I would if I could afford it. It's a huge IF haha. I am going through this 6.0 and at least giving it a fair chance to hold together. I can easily blame all of the headgasket failures on the tech's who have touched it so far. I'm doing it myself this time and I have faith it will hold. If it doesn't, well then maybe that IF becomes a little smaller...

 

I have the 6 speed manual in my truck... the 6.0 power band is way too high... A 12v would do as well towing as the 6.0 in the situations i am towing in... To do arp studs, I gotta pull the engine, so i hate to risk junk.

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I do like my 6.0... 130k and only 3 injectors and egr delete... It would stay with my ex wife's 99 7.3 that I lightly built for her...

 

Why do you need to pull the engine for arp's? I'm going to be doing mine with the engine in place and the cab on. Unless I do decide to put the cam in, then it's coming out for cam replacement.

A stock 6.0 puts out 250-270 rwhp to the ground... a stock 12v is probably well under 200hp, probably closer to the 150hp mark. I'm sure the powerband is much different as the inline will be a torquey motor, but don't compare a 12V dodge truck to a 12V Ford truck. The Ford's are QUITE a bit heavier than an early Dodge. The 12V will likely need some power upgrades to satisfy you in the Ford. The ZF6 should be able to hold that power easily though.

Since you're a mechanic and fabricator, I'd buy the adapter plate for mating the 12V to the ZF6 and the motor mounts all directly from destroked. They've taken all the guess work and time out of what you're going to do, just make it easy on yourself with those two big items. You will probably also want to look into the tach kits they offer. Best bet is to call them up and talk to them about what will work. After that, you should be able to do the rest yourself.

 

I have never messed with major 6.0 repairs. I did my egr delete and the injectors were under warranty... i have been told by several dealers and a couple mod shops that to properly torque the stud nuts at the rear, the engine needs to come out, or the cab needs to be lifted. as i said in my post for arp headstuds, i really should kill all issues and do the clutch at the same time... By the way, i learned diesel engines on two stroke detroits, and my dream would be a 6V53 turbo motor shoehorned in...