I have a stock 93 12v with turned up fuel screw (stock spring and pin). I'm using the 93 h1c with a hx35 exh. housing. I have no problem with this setup, spools quick and makes around 30psi pulling hard with low egt's. Not looking to upgrade now but if I need a turbo in the future I was thinking of the he351ve, I love the low rpm whistle that thing has. I've seen video and threads on other forums saying boost will open the vanes on it's own, but I wonder how many psi it takes to open up. I don't want to spend $700 on a fleece controller. My biggest concern is overboost (if possible with stock fueling) and egt's. The reason I would go with the he351ve is the price and the option to have an exh. brake. I don't tow much, the truck is more of a wood hauler and fuelmizer, but if I do tow a lot of wieght I don't want any issues with the turbo. I guess a guy could always put a backup choke cable setup in the cab to pull if the boost and egt's get to high. Just chewin on some ideas for a later time, any input is appreciated

 

Well, ended up buying a cheap vgt and in the process of the retro fit. I'm going to use a spring like the video but also am using a cable to allow full manual adjustment of the vanes, including exh brake (need 60# valve springs though) and also to manualy cycle the vanes for cleaning. I found a 8ft military engine-kill cable that has a ratcheting locking mechanism. I'll take pics and hopefully a video.

 

Have fun

 

Got the truck runnin yesterday with the vgt, so far so good. The spring I have might not be quite strong enough but at least it won't overboost. It didn't spool as fast as I thought, but then I noticed how dirty the stock airfilter was, so stopped by Amsoil after work and got a cone filter (EAau4610, $70) and it spools quicker, not to mention the jet engine I now have under the hood! Not as much exhaust whistle as I thought, except fully closed. I do have a muffler on it though. Goin to take some pics now, try to post them ASAP

 

Sorry about the poor pics, it's a start. For the spring setup, I used a 5" piece of 1/4" threaded rod and welded a 1/4" pipe nipple to one end so it can rotate on the 1/4" stainless stud. The other end of the threaded rod sticks through the bracket I made to hold the cable in place. I had to use a fine rat tail file on the hole so the threaded rod wouldn't bind up when the actuator opened. The threaded rod had to be ground and sanded smooth where it slides also. You can get an idea on how the cable is hooked up, pretty simple. As far as holding the outer cable in place, I just used a 1/2" x 1" piece of 14ga steel and welded the 1" side perpendicular to the back side of the bracket and drilled 2 1/4" holes. Then made another 1/2" x 1" piece with matching holes and used some small machined screws and nuts to pinch the cable in place. Hope this makes sense

 

Drove some more today, hauled 2000lbs of lumber in the box and worked great. Still gettin used to the xtra noise of the amsoil filter. Do have one problem though, the EB doesn't work as planed. Since the actuator can still move via the spring, even with the cable in the closed position, drive pressure opens the vane a little bit when I close the cable at higher rpm's. Have to figure a way to lock the actuator closed when the cable is fully closed, I have time to figure somthin out till I get my 60# valve springs in. Anyone know of a 12 volt plunger solonoid that can handle extended periods of on time?