how long does it take to regen ? truck has been runnning 5 hours and still regenerating.it said 90 percent full know it went down to 60 percent.man i need to take it on a road trip

 

For what its worth, the dealership told me to drive my rig at about 70 mph for the regen process to occur and complete. The first time I received the 90%-full message, I took my 2009 onto the highway and ran her for about 5 to 10 minutes at about 60 to 70 mph. That's all it took to complete the process.

 

You need to take it out and run it on the highway at a minimum of 55mph for 30 minutes straight. Preferably in 5th gear if it's an auto, to keep your rpms around 1800 or so. If you have a trailer you can drag with you even better. That will keep some load on the engine and allow it to generate more heat.
That should allow enough to complete the regen cycle. Factory says minimum of 30 minutes at 55mph +
If that doesn't do it, you'll need to take it to the dealer and have them run a forced regen with the star scan. Worst case scenario will be replacing the DPF.
Hope that helps.
If you're not in an area that does emissions inspections, I would seriously consider getting rid of the DPF and related emissions equipment. You will see a substantial gain in mileage both empty and towing.
Just another tip.. run with your exhaust brake on. That will help keep the nozzle in your turbo from caking with soot and sticking, which will throw the P2262 code(No Boost Detected-mechanical)
If you have any more questions, post back up and I'll see what I can do to help.
JB

 

Really? What exacty does the exhaust brake do in terms of keeping soot off of the nozzles?? Does the brake raise EGT's high enough to bake all that isht off of the valves and nozzles etc?

 

^^^^ He didnt mean that it keeps the inj. nozzles clean. He was talking about keeping the turbo clean. If you never use the ex. brake, then it gets all sooted up and it wont allow the vanes and other moving parts to work correctly. If you always use (turn on ) the ex. brake, it is always moving and sliding and allowing it to keep from sooting up.

 

Ya I'm a dummy. It was late.. didn't see the word 'turbo' after nozzles. These 6.7's use vgt's right? Because if thats what he's refering to, the thing with vgt's is you HAVE to romp on them to prevent them from sooting. You need to work them to redline at least once a day to keep the vanes free and from caking up.

 

Then I guess the Garetts in the vgt powerstrokes work different than the Garett vgt in my volkswagen. In my vw, the vanes are closed unless you hit a certain amount of boost, the wg opens them up. If you baby the car all the time, the vanes wont open up and therefore will soot up and begin sticking. Romping on the car cooks the soot and blasts it out of the tail pipel.

 

I was on deer lease last year when I got the 90% full alarm. I got on a road inside the lease put in Drive instead of a lower gear, within 5 min my was clear, no other issues, got on Highway no smoke all good on way home.

 

^I meant vgt cummins, not powerstrokes. And for some reason I dont have an edit button anymore :think: