hey yall i havent posted much on here but i check in when i get a chance....i had a '91 1/2 3/4 ton 3.54 gears with auto trans and i had pods,3200 gov spring,afc lever ground,no fuel pin,fuel screw turned in to runaway,pump moved 1/8",stock turbo with 21cm housing and it would go to 36psi and max the pyro witch i know aint good....now i have a '92 1 ton with 4.10 gears and auto trans thats in my sig. and iv done the same mods to it except on the 92 it has a wastegated exhaust housing with a hood stack. i ground the fuel pin and pushed the pump to the head...before i moved the pump it would go to 37psi of boost and the pyro would not go past 1200* id get a cloud of smoke and then a light haze at wot.....now that i pushed the pump to the head it will make 32psi and runs alot better but it seems like it aint got the power that the 91 did cuz i was at the same boost with a smaller housing and if im thinkin right a smaller housing will make more boost......my question is when i put in the pods i used the thick washers sould i have used the thin washers? and would the different sized washers make a difference in the performance?

sorry for the long post.

the way it is set up now...i can give chipped 3rd gens a run for there money

 

timing (pushing the pump to the head) advances the flow to spray more before the piston reaches TDC ( i think ) this will increase performance lower EGTS = less heat
more times than not less boost psi too
making 36psi with the stock injectors is not unheard of but with those PODS you should be making alot more than that even with the stock H1C
**** i make 64psi in the truck in my sig stock 1990 injectors and stock H1C with the 60mm upgrade the washers could have a little to do with it you could be spraying the cylinder with fule instead of the pre cub bowl how thick are the washers?

Brice

 

when id hit 36 with my 91 at wot it would POUR smoke and wouldnt stop pourin out till i let off...i had pods in it but i cant remember what washers i used on that truck.....on the 92 it wont pour out the smoke....i know all that smoke is wasted fuel and i dont drive like a bat outa hell like i use to but i still like to have it when the time calls for it and cuz im gonna hook on the sled with the 92....im not sure how thick they are but they sent me real thin ones then some that were alittle thicker and the thick ones that i used and of corse now i cant find any of the extras.

 

Use the thinnest washers you have as that will aid in getting more of the fuel into the bowl of the piston.

 

wat are pods an ya cause im tryin to turn the pump up on my 91 so it pulles better and its a lil more exciting to drive

 

when selecting washers for the injectors, check the protrusion on the face of the head.

a typical piston will protrude about 0.012 past the block.


measure the gasket thickness then minus the injector protrusion and the piston protrusion to get distance between piston and injector. there are four sets in a gasket kit.
I believe the ones that Cummins put in the factory are at 0.020

the only reason for all the difference sizes, when someone surfaces the head, they can just add the correct washer to how much they removed when surfacing.

so if your head has not been surfaced and you used the thicker washers, YES, you will notice a bad spray pattern, because you have backed the injector away from the piston.

I was always taught injectors should be about +0.010 protruding, not sure, but will find the book and post it up

 

PDR Diesel Performance: Lucas POD injectors

 

 

While very good advice for stock injectors, you can tose that out with aftermarket ones... Different spary angles.

Use thin as you can. Advance the timing as far as you dare.

 

I will go with what Bobby says, and add that a retorque on the stock head bolts is a great idea, if you can't go to studs. While you are there, adjust your valves.