After spoending the morning looking for a replacement copper arm for the armature with no success I looked up the part number of the starter online and found an ebay link to original OEM starter for $119.98 with free shipping. Ordered her up this morning

 

After having a couple NON-OEM starters failing,I went the last time and bought a starter through Larry B's website.Did it cost more than your $120 starter,certainly,but a NEW starter with his good contacts already installed and it had been flawless ever since.It just goes to show that cheaper is not always better........Andy

LarryB's Dodge starting problems solved here.

 

very true thats why i will swap my larry B contacts into the new starter.

 

starter was junk..brand new junk...installed it and it cranked 4 times then click click click...took it apart and one of the 2 wires going to the small post was busted. took the motor assembly off and put it on my old starter..she works now.

 

Yeah Ebay...

Will they take it back?

 

they would have but i ripped it apart...i need to get my truck running before it gets any colder. this fuel problem has got me stumped..after i changed my fuel filter the truck ran,,,then stalled. the problem could be anywhere from the tank forward.

 

First prime the fuel system up to the fuel filter housing, then bleed injector lines 1, 3, and 4. If that doesnt get it going, replace all your fuel lines with diesel rated fuel line. 3/8" supply and 5/16" return. Other common problems are sucking air at the fuel heater, and dirty fuel prefilter, fuel shutdown solenoid problems as well..

 

k thanks...i think i ruled all but an air leak somewhere out...it will run now after i bleen the line running from the lift pump to the filter. runs a few minutes then dies. i was thinking to run larry B fuel lines from the tank all the way up...but first i want to find the primary cause. any easy ways to test the fuel lines from the tank forward? i have a piece of rubber line i can take off for testing ...an add on. how can test the lift pump without pulling it?

 

If your truck is a 96 and youve never changed the fuel lines - its time. They rot from the inside out and make tiny holes that make you lose prime and yet the lines dont leak.

You can test the lift pump by adding a fuel presure guage. Get a 0-60 psi guage. Pull the injector pump inlet banjo bolt and drill and tap it 1/8" not. add some fittings and hose hose or 1/8" brakeline and youve got a fuel pressure guage.

 

yeah i plan to change it....the 2 lines behind the block were changed at 10,000 after they started leaking...had some new line spliced in from the tank to by the door last year. when my friend spliced it to the tank he said it looked thin by the tank/line insert going into the tank. but it should still run with a leak at the top of the tank I would assume...or no. I could run a line into a 5 gallon can and check it that way. my funds are very limited for the next few months so i need to fix what i can to get on the road and fix the rest later.