So I'm new here. I've been searching and reading, lot's of good info.

I have a few questions for the gurus.

I have a 98 12v auto 4x4. It's all stock. I've previously owned an '06 CTD. I'd like to get the power up to around where the '06 was running. I have a truck camper and tow about 5-6,000 #'s on the weekends. I drive it to work also.

I installed boost, pyro, trans gauges this weekend.

1. my fuel millage is only mid 13's right now. Need to get better

2. if anywhere above 45 mph, the trans won't downshift into 3rd. The TC stays locked and it just lugs and accelerates. I checked TPS readings and they looked good. It was weeks ago and can't remember the numbers but they were on par with the numbers I looked up here.

3. Stock gauge readings are just shy of 20#'s boost and a peak of 1000 degrees. Does this look right?

4. I'll do the BHAF, remove the silencer ring on the turbo and straight pipe the stock exhaust. I want to order a 4" kit for it but it'll be a month or so before I can.

5. What are safe mods for towing and millage. Are there dimensions somewhere to grind the fuel plate myself?

6. I'm going to pull the front cover off and check for the KDP fix. Is this the best time to bump the timing? 16 degrees best?

There's more questions I have but this should get started.

Thanks for your time guys.

Jason

 

If you plan on adjusting your timing you might as well do it while you have the cover off fixing the KDP. i would suggest grinding your plate yourself, sliding it full foward along with the housing, adjusting the star wheel, boost elbow, intake & exhaust, 3000 gsk, turbo, exhaust manifold... but just remember your auto wont hold up to a whole lot of power upgrades. i would upgrade valve bodies and a new TC and get a lock up switch, or a whole new tranny. but here is a post with a variety of fuel plates to choose from. https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-val...nd-useful.html Good luck

 

Thanks for the reply,

Those are in a round about way, all of the mods I want to do and then some.

On the plate, I've already seen the thread you referenced so I have an idea of what they look like. I'm more curious if anyone bothered to right any dimensions down as they did it?

take the #100 plate for instance. i can see the bulk of it comes down to the stock height. Is that little tip at the bottom the stock height as well? and I guess just a gradual blend in that corner?

I'm not sure how this plate actually works. I guess if I knew that, I could better judge how the grind should be.

 

hey sorry it took so long to get back to ya. ive been extremely busy working lately. but on the #100 plate i left the tip the same distance that it is on the factory plate. just ground it down and smoothed it out the best i could. well im prolly not the best to explain all the actual terminology on this stuff someone else can probably correct me but basically there is an arm that starts from the bottom of your fuel plate and works itself to the top. this is what dictates on how much fuel your motor is going to receive. for instance the #100 plate starts out fueling like a #10 plate and once it gets on the upper side it fuels like a #0 plate. i just marked my plate with a permanent marked until i was happy with the the shape of the plate and started grinding to match my markings. i slid my plate full foward and tuned my afc and have been very pleased with this plate. but i have heard that an auto doesnt see the same performance upgrades as a 5 speed does so you might talk to some of the auto guys to see what the best plate for you would be. hope this helps

 

It does thanks.

 

YOU REALLY WANT IT TO STAY LOCKED UP THAT'S WHERE IT MAKES THE MOST POWER.WHEN IT'S LOCKED IT REALLY MAKES THAT TURBO WORK.PLUS YOU DON'T HAVE THE CONVERTOR CREATING ALL THAT HEAT FROM SLIPPING AND NOT BEING LOCKED UP.