Hoping somebody can help me out with a description or picture of what the 1/2" wooden dowels used for cam removal look like. I am under the impression that you can just make a set to do the job. What I have read so far suggested that you cut 1/2" dowels into 12" lengths. Do you have to do anything special to the end of the dowel that contacts the lifters? I have to swap my timing case and plan to try the heating the gear method first, but in the event I can't get the gear back on with heat I will have to remove cam and press the gear back on. Never attempted this before so any help is appreciated! BTW the truck is a 2000 QCSB 4x4 24v with P pump.

 

I didnt't get any feedback on the wooden dowel specs but I did figure it out. For anybody that is planning to do this I would recommend cutting the 1/2" dowels to 12" lengths (except for 5 and 6, I cut those to about 9") lightly bevel the edges of the dowels to knock off burrs from the saw. I did not tape near the ends of my dowels but I think a wrap of good tape about a 1/2" from the base of the dowel would be a good idea to keep the dowel from splintering and dropping objects in your motor. To access 5 and 6 you need to pull the insulation down behing the motor on the firewall. Good ol' american engineering placed two holes in the cowl there that will allow you to remove the pushrods and insert your wooden dowels. I gave each of the dowels a firm tap with a hammer to seat them into the lifters. The job was not nearly as bad as I had expected it to be.

 

Sorry no one got back to you, but it sounds like you got it figured just fine! Sounds very similar to what I did when I did mine. I used thick zip ties to hold the dowels up. The zip ties would slide on the dowel when placement was needed, but wouldn't slip with the weight of the follower.