So i did not see in the introduction area that you don't ask questions. So i did not see that right away. Sorry.

So ill start with one problem at a time.
Better millage and power.

I am just looking to tow with my 95 auto. my trailer and toy total is like 6500lbs. On the hills im at like 1100 temp, between 10-15psi, long hill, the truck just starts losing power.
I have 305/75/16s
Ive cleaned up a few issues and improved from 10mpg around town to 13.5 around town.
To get to this point, i've pin timed it. Was WAY out. So far that i had white smoke.
There was NO spring relief valve on the return line from the pump. Swear to you on this when i pulled the banjo bolt!
The last owner had already cut the lock bolt on the fuel plate. The AFC is centered now in the port, plate i think is centered, ive cleaned out the system and i have been just replacing stuff as i go and not even looking to diagnose anymore.

I am going to continue to upgrade things that i find busted or worn, but if i don't know what could be there in the first place, are there any markings on fuel plates, or injectors, to know what is in there and possibly causing me problems? Should i just get new nozzles or a better delivery valve and stop chasing down problems caused by the wrong parts put in?

I read people pulling more weight, getting better milage, and doing it all day long.
Alot of what i have done so far is listed in my into. Any help?

 

the fuel plate should have a number inprinted in it and for injectors you just need to found out the stock id numbers and match with the injectors in the truck if they dont match that means there not stock your delivery valves should be fine would not mess with them

 

If the fuel plate did not have any numbers, safe to say its orig?

Im eventually going to continue with the upgrades.
Im looking to rebuild/mod the AFC. New diaphram, I have a spring kit for it, and also seeing other things done. Anything else that i should do or NOT do to the AFC that have been discussed? OR maybe some hack already did it. There were some stickers under the hood of an alledged diesel shop. day i got the truck called to ask what they did since there sticker is on it. NOPE dont remember the truck. Did not even keep the vin or part of for there records.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-val...-afc-mods.html

Im sure there is more out there on modifying the AFC

 

yes proberly but there is one aftermarket plate that is not marked but i dout you have a 0 plate does the truck through black smoke if you get on it all. some people that want full fuel try to gut the afc and take the spring and everything out mabye someone tryed that on yours i think that would a good idea to put a new spring and stuff there. How far was your starcrew

 

Before i pin timed it, when it was cold, white smoke at idle.
Now no smoke even if i mash it. I had the star all the way forward, i think, then i centered it, and back again and back to center. No change. Star wheel does not seem to make any change. Why i got the diaphram and spring.
When i have it apart, anything else i should look for? i see people shaving the foot, other things? possibly something with that?


At a dead stop if i mash it, its a pig, boost rolls up slow to max 10psi. If i stall it for a second, i cannt get bost up past 5psi and still a pig. No smoke.

Rolling start, if i burry my foot in it, i get a tiny puff, boost sometimes hits 20-22psi but drops quick after it shifts from second to third. EGT hits a max 1000.
The BD waste gate is basically bottomed. factory i think they set it at 30psi?

I pulled the turbo when i did the WG and did not see any cracks in the plate or seat from what i could see. Dont know condition of the turbine.
I have an HX40 i was either going to go hybrid or just the 40 when i got the other things figured out.

Im need to get the fuel gauge on the pump and check pressure, and get the AFC apart.
Is it worth it to get a stock AFC to make sure it has not been shaved or messed with or just rebuild what i got?

 

on a stock 12v they come tuned to no more than 17psi and ya if that starscrew didnt seem to make a differents id put a nother one in there myself and i here stuff about grinding the foot and i honestly know nothing about that. did you put on the hx40 because those trucks were stock with hx35s and id try to rebuilt it my self if it were me if i could but its your truck and money

 

yeah with the AFC i have heard a lot of stupid hacks and chop this and mod this. Im going to try to do the AFC this weekend, look it all over and see if it was chopped up or bad diaphragm or whatever.

The 40 i have not installed yet. Still running the 35. Im piling up the parts to be able to run the 40 or possibly a hybrid, but not until i get some things un hacked. As i wait, i keep seeing other options for turbo upgrades.

When i got the 40, it was orig holset, t3 flange, low miles, good price! figured if i dont use it on the dodge, i have loads of other projects i could use it on.

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my priorities are easy for this truck.

#1, Usable, reliable power towing 6500lbs. Just dont want to have issues overheating, or turning on the hazards on the hills, turning off the AC or down shifting or melting the turbo with high EGT's. I towed the same load with a 1980 c10 2wd pickup a few times, with a worn SB350 and TH350 with 3.73 gears. Power wise, I really did not notice any difference when i first got this dodge towing the same exact hills, same load. just a increase in millage from 7mpg with the chevy to 13mpg with the dodge. I still have to pull to the right and slow down. It has gotten alot better but i know it can be way better.

#2, Price. This is a tough one. This my first diesel. I can set a price and budget for a car to run in the 10's in the 1/4 mile and i can budget a rock crawler to point and shoot any trail on the east coast. I DO know that no matter what budget, its very hard to get it to do street/strip or to work and to the trails AND do the 1/4 or red trails and not be fixing it every other day. Ill spend the money to get the right part the first time, just dont want to not know options. I have an hx40. I see the s300 is the new all around badass for what i MAY be looking for. My hx35 may be on its way out BUT i can build the 35/40 hybrid or just install the 40 if it will get be closer to the other goals.

#3, MPG: i know ive seen, herd guys doing 15mpg and better, towing like 10k lbs, at 65mph and faster, AC blowing cold, good EGT's, and truck does it all its life!! Ill set my goals a little lower to fit the price and live with 10mpg around town unloaded as long as highway fully loaded im getting 17mpg or better. Right now im at 13.5 around town side streets, NO unloaded highway, and 13-14 loaded on the highway.

Whats next??

 

im looking to get a he351cw turbo off a newer dodge for my 96 12v. for you id put a aftermarket 10 or 100 plate pushed up in the middle or all the way up that should up the power a bit and once you get your afc working correctly set that a little above the half way point

 

wow... my truck is slightly modified and I can pull 17 city and 19 hwy. no load ... I think your numbers are a bit low ...

What is your IP timing set at ? this could be a bit of a problem if set too advanced or retarded ... My engine is a stock 215 ( out of a 96 ) bumped timing to 15.5* 3 pc manifold and a 5" diamond eye w/straight pipe all the way... fuel plate FF and star wheel turned about 3 turns towards engine.....

not sure I understand .... where is the AFC ? Is that where the star wheel is ... I was not aware there were more things to adjust ... still learning my self ... know 8v92's and stuff but these 6bt's are a whole new ball game as I have learned... and am learning as we speek

 

afc is the big word for the home of the starscrew