While starting my truck for the first time after fixing kdp, replacing timing cover gasket ,crank seal, valve cover gaskets, and intake manifold gaskets, when I turned my key to wait to start my grid heater contacts sparked so I shut off the truck and made sure everything was alright. After deciding that everything is installed properly and should be working fine I tried a second time with no problems but as soon as my truck started one of the grid heater wires that goes to the positive on my battery popped and now is no longer a wire. What could have gone wrong, how can I fix this, and is it possible to get the new cables from the battery down?

 

:humm Sounds l;ike you have a hot wire grounding out possibly somthing you did doing the intake gaskets

 

A shorted heater (element shorted to intake directly after the connection to the stud) will cause it to do the same thing. If the wire looks good you might check the heater itself.

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Ya which is what I'm awfully confused about because everything is installed the way it was and everything looks good except a portion of this one wire to the battery that sparked and kinda just popped. Is there any chance it could be related to there being mouse **** on the wire? Lol

 

Ive seen folks not hold the bottom nut and turn the stud, shorting the heater.

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With that stud having a possibility of being loose would that wreck it? How do you hold the nut on the bottom of the stud to tighten it?

 

Its easy enough to check you grid heaters, just pull the covers off of it and check for resistance and you can also check the ampreage, should be close to 160 Amps, I dont think you can get the cables backwards?

 

yes there definitely not backwards, i'm thinking it could be the grid heater studs that are loose but I dont know a way to get a hold of the nuts on the bottom to tighten the studs? And how should I go about replacing these cables? And call me stupid but I can't seem to even get my grid heater off of my truck I have all the bolts removed and it wont budge...

 

You're intake heater may be one with entire plenum. If thats the case you'll have to remove it and hold the bottom of the terminal but there is a good chance that the heater has failed if the terminals are loose, their relatively inexpensive. I've seen them repaired with home fabricated studs but they commonly become boost leaks.

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I think thats a fuseable link, it's designed to burn out before the rest of the wire melts.