04 f250 6.0 no crank??
Truck was running fine no problems, switched it off about two hours later when i was going to crank it, it barely turned over. New batteries and starter and now it will turn over 3-4 times and go to knocking. Local Ford dealer told me it needs a new motor because something locked up in it? Any suggestions? I dont see how it went from running fine to locked up with just a turn of the key.
It could be hydrolocking from a blown egr cooler or a failed injector/they can leak fuel into cylinder and cause this. To find out you can pull the glow plugs then crank it over to see if any fluid comes out of the cylinder. you can pull them without removing valve covers, only thing to remove is the wire harness "rail" for the glow plugs, they are located just below the bottom valve cover rail.
Also one thing i forgot to mention! After i put the new batteries and starter in it when i would try to crank it their was some smoke coming off the engine couldnt exactly pin point where but it was behind the alternator 6-8" and about middle ways of the engine
that could be th wire from the alternator to the battery, unwrap the cover on that wire to see if it is damaged, could be your whole problem. also check the ground wire to the block, it is going to be on front of motor on bottom to the right of the ac compressor, it will be a bolt coming straight off the front and may have another bracket on the same bolt for the trans lines.
I checked it wires and they looked good, i tried to crank it again and it cranked and now they is a bad rattleing and scrubbing, towards the bottom side of the motor close to the oil pan. To me it sounds like a bad baron or something
It could be hydrolocking from a blown egr cooler or a failed injector/they can leak fuel into cylinder and cause this. To find out you can pull the glow plugs then crank it over to see if any fluid comes out of the cylinder. you can pull them without removing valve covers, only thing to remove is the wire harness "rail" for the glow plugs, they are located just below the bottom valve cover rail.
It can be done for just under $1000 plus machine work if you do it yourself, make sure to use stock ford head gasket, they come with a new standpipe as well and are around $130 per side, $400 for studs, $250 for oil cooler,
Yup. I'm at around $1k even with an extra set of heads I scored dirt cheap and had machined up. I already had the studs though. Also got all the Ford updated parts etc.
I would say make sure you have your other issues resolved first though.
I would say make sure you have your other issues resolved first though.



