Got a set of gov springs and valve springs from Haisley Machine. Installed the springs and turned both nuts in at aprox .030 this was what it measured on the stock setting also. I can for sure tell a difference but when i first start it i have to give it fuel and keep my foot on pedal till it warms up a little or else rpms drop way low. After it runs for a while or just going down the road it doesnt die but still idle only at second notch on Rpms (670ish) im guessing. Throttle response is different but not extremely touchy like i have heard of in the past.

Question is. Should i open it back up and tighten up the nuts more or should i just adjust idle up more? Reason for me saying the throttle is not extremely touchy is im guessing i have room to tighten them up a little? any opinion would be appreciated.

 

I'd try bumping up the idle some, see if that helps. Sounds like it's running good otherwise.

 

I hesitate to say anything, because I haven't done gov. springs myself yet, but. In the reading I've done here on the subject, I've been given the impression that it isn't unusual to have to bump the idle up afterwards. I have no explanation, but is it possible that the extra resistance of the stronger valve springs would be enough to slow the rotating assembly? I doubt it, but it's my best guess.

Regardless, one thing I can say from experience is that these engines can do all sorts of weird things if the idle is too low. I agree, bump it up around 750rpm or so and see if it doesn't clear things up. I'd be surprised if it didn't.

 

tighten them down. i have a stock shim under my 4k springs and way tighter than .030. you should have to take the idle down when you are done. it is pretty typical you the truck to become a little bit harder to start but once it lights it should run and idle fine. and 4ks will make the throttle a little bit more touchy. what kind of rpms can you see in drive and in neutral? should be in the 3's under a load and high 3's just reving it.

 

Yeah what he said tighten up some. Should be .045 or .050

 

Wouldn't that be looser?

 

Thanks for the help so far yall. I still havent touched it kinda waiting for some more input(been driveing my rice burner. -For sale if anyone is interested haha- 99Honda Civic) But right now im thinking tighten it down a little more though i did call haisley and they said to turn idle up. Just something tells me tighten the gov spring nuts. Im thinkin both to about .040 or .050?.. What stock shim is under yours? i took ALL out unless there was another under the large outer stock spring that was not remove (just 3? i think* inners) and replaced with the 4k kit that came with a spacer for bottom. Its touchy yes but not as much as i had expected. Does get up to 3k rpms a lot quicker if ya stomp it haha.. Its a 5 speed so.. not really getting the question. In Neutral its about 670 if im figuring right and the gauge is accurate. but letting off the clutch ya gotta give it a lil more fuel to keep it from dying.(even after warm up) In reverse i have killed it like twice- gotta kinda hold brake and do a clutch brake and fuel combo? or not exactly brake but ease off clutch and give some fuel back kinda like not letting all the way out just where its grabbing a little. No idea if that makes sense.

Read your question again and maybe this will answer more.. Havent been past 3k and barely even hit 3k when i did. I still dont have overstock valve springs in it. TIME TIME TIME.. COLLEGE COLLEGE COLLEGE... But as far as getting to 3k yeah BIG difference.

THANKS EVERYONE FOR INPUT. Anything is appreciated.

 

I had to turn my idle up with the 4k springs made by pacbrake. It fires up just fine. Even when it's 32* outside

 

Did you experience the same thing before you turned you idle up as i did?

 

Mine only died when I would put it in gear when it was cold. Plus the overall idle was low. I adjust mine up to 850 in gear with the ac on when the motor is warm. Then it's slamming into gear but its idling high enough when it's cold out.