wvo
 

OK I have heard about the vegetable fryer oil has any one used waste corn oil from an ethanol plant we get several 5 gal buckets of this stuff daily I have wondered about using it as wvo

ps: I work in and ethanol plant

I see no issues using it, just filter/dewater it very well. You're not planning on putting it right in the diesel tank I hope...

check out WVO Diesel Conversion | SVO Grease Conversion | Ford Vegistroke Powerstroke | Biodiesel Conversion mostly a Ford site, some Dodge guys, but tons of good general info about WVO use.

huffie
 

would like to get some corn oil from ethanol plant do all plants have some extra oil

I run two idi fords on wvo runs great just make sure you filter the crap out of it, and never pull oil from the bottom of the barrel.

they all do some are now extruding the oil out that oil goes for bio diesel

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Why don't you just throw a shovel full of dirt in your tank and filter that?

That wvo crap is FULL of dirt. Use used oil instead!!!

splain this sir? how is wvo full of dirt?



speaking of corn oil. if you get a supply of lets say veg oil and peanut oil, can you mix them or keep them seperate?:humm:

:humm: My chicken wings or french fries never have dirt on them :humm:

If your french fries never had dirt on them, how did the potato grow? And dirt is the least of my concerns with chickens! Doesn't stop me from eating either when propperly prepared. Prepare your corn oil and truck propperly and it should work fine.

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Be sure to filter your waste motor oil down to two mircon before you put it in your truck also, as a general rule it'll have a lot worse stuff than wvo in it. Thinking wear metals and such. Filter it good and it'll be fine.

what is the flash point of corn oil? i know peanut oil is one of the higher ones at around 800 degrees and still burns in the engine, so corn should do great.

if you have a continuous supply i would recommend investing in a centrifuge to clean it. something like this:
in the warmer weather you may be able to run 100% but in the cooler weather you should process it into BIO, run it at a lower % or thin it.

there are tones of threads on running SVO or converting to BIO

I run 100% WVO year round, including in below freezing temps. WVO should ONLY be used in a proper heated two tank system. Regardless of weather/time of year. Or, make bio with it, but definitely do not run WVO in your stock tank in any truck. You're asking for problems.

The dirt comment made me laugh... most ridiculous thing I think I've heard yet about WVO.:pca1:

Let me put it to you this way and see if it make any sense to you....................

Ok - so you and the family go out to Joe's Diner tomorrow night and you each have a big ole burger and a huge order of fries - COOKED in vegetable oil - right?

And you don't think that oil is full of crap. Literally, parts and pieces off the fries dropped into the oil and now YOU'RE gonna have to filter it back iut, in order to run it in your truck?

Go for it pal, cause I'll take my used motor oil and hydraulic fluid any day!!!! I run it through a couple 2 micron filters and pump it in to my tank and drive down the road! I MIGHT change a filter once in 500 to 600 gallons just cause I fell sorry for it!!!!!

Do you think about what you're saying?

So there's nothing in used motor oil? I know when I send in for oil analysis my oil has always showed something, including but not limited to WEAR METAL PARTICLES. I'm sure those are good for injectors right?

No matter what you're using, it needs to be filtered, I don't think that's the question.

YOU said it was full of dirt? I would be more apt to think used motor oil has more dirt in it than any used WVO will. I run filtered WVO year round in my heated two tank system. I would however NEVER run used motor oil, though I know some guys do quite succesfully. I would take CF'd WVO over any sort of filtered WMO, any day. I wouldn't even run my WVO with your filtering method.

:c:

what about boiled and recondensed/cracked WMO? that would make it cleaner then any pump diesel or WVO out there

I'm sure there are ways to get it clean, I just wont use WMO anyways, just my own personal standing. I know guys use it and some quite successful. Success has quite a few different meanings in the alt fuel world I've learned though. I'm just sticking with what I believe to be the best PROVEN system out there for running something other than diesel. I prefer to keep my alt fuel system separate from my main diesel fuel system that came on the truck, and my kit allows me to do that. I can get home on either one if I need to.

i know what you mean. for some its being able to run their truck cheaper, as long as the cleaning process and the repair bills end up cheaper then when running on diesel alone than that to them is successful. for others it needs to work just as well as straight diesel and last just as long, otherwise it is a failure, even if they saved a bundle in the process.

i think most of us are the former but strive for the latter

Look - let's settle this stupid argument once and for all. I want you dto do TWO things:

1. Take an old broomstick with you and go to a local restaurant. Put the stick down the middle of the opening of their junk cooking oil tank. SEE!!! it's sitting there with NO support - STRAIGHT UP!! Thre's so much crap in the "oik" that it's supporting the broomstick!!!! Junk you're gonna have to filter out of it!!!!

2. Now - drain the oil out of your truck after 6,000 of hard towing. Put a toothpick (MUCH lighter than and broomstick - right?) and stand it up in the oil, the n let go. what happened? IT FELL OVER AND LAID FLAT IN THE OIL!!! Why? BECASUE THERE'S NOTHING IN IT TO SUPPORT THE TOOTHPICK - THAT'S WHY!!!

And cut with the "Well there's "something in the oil because a test detected ware particles", because I've said over and over and over that I filter my oil down to TWO measly microns!!

Do you realize how tiny a micron is?
Do you know how many microns a stock fuel filter is? Try 10, 20 and sometimes 30!!!!

Pal, If you like the idea of using 4 or 5 different filters to use that filthy wvo crap, then all I can say is go for it!!! If you do I won't have to worry abut MY sources drying up!!!!

If you can't see the difference in filth between used motor oil or hydraulic fluid and that crap that comes out of a french fry cooker I'm done trying to explain it to you!!!

After all the crap the refinery had to do to turn crude oil into diesel fuel and motor oil, filtering out a few french fry and hamburger bits out seems minor.

That might be the usual numbers for an oil filter.
I think you mean the 3 to 5 microns of a fuel filter, right?

I've seen primary fuel filters rated up to 50 microns for semi trucks, but they're always followed by a secondary filter rated closer to 3.

Do you have any pictures or manufacturer numbers?

I found pre filter arrangement only in old style manuals or in semi applications using huge filter arrangements suitable only for huge fuel flows. Most of them I found have a filter thread mount of 1" or bigger.

Maybe you have something in a usable common small size?

I forget the specific part number, but some of the filter cartridges using the Fuelpro 382 filter assembly are rated in the 30 to 50 micron range. I've seen these on large farm tractors and over the road semi trucks, probably be hard to package in a smaller application.

That's exactly the point. I would love to go with a pre-filter, but havn't one yet fitting into the engine bay.

As stated, applications using those cartridges also have a secondary filter that's much finer to protect the pump and injectors.




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That's why it's filtered before it goes into the vehicle.

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The wvo and wmo, that is.

After this post I realized I'm further bringing my own self down by even responding, since you clearly know very little about what you're talking about.

I know what a micron is, cause that's what my WVO gets filtered to, below what you are filtering. I filter to one micron, and am looking to go further, so yes I know what it is. That's one micron ABSOLUTE for the record. Centrifuging should put be down below 1/2 a micron absolute.

The broom stands up in WVO because of the viscosity. It has nothing to do with what is in there, that is absurd to even think that. Your own example could be demolished by using a dumpster of clean oil next to a dumpster of dirty oil, but do it in freezing temps. The broom will probably stand up about the same. I can't imagine a broom standing up in WVO anyways, and if the oil is that bad I wont use it, nor will I eat at that restaurant again.

Your example of WMO... try doing that with gear oil. It's just the viscosity, not the particles inside of it. Obviously a thicker oil will cause the broom to fall slower. I'm not sure what that has to do with your original comment of "dirt" being in it. Just further proves your lack of knowledge on the subject.

You're done trying to explain this, because you can not. You are talking above your comprehension now. What stock fuel filters are 20 or 30 microns? Last I knew my stock filter setup went from a 10 micron to a 2 micron absolute. Where did I say I use 4 or 5 filters to filter my oil? WTF? My filtration system has a 200 micron barrel lid the oil goes in, just to keep out those "chunks" then it gets heat/settled as anyone should do EVEN WITH WMO, then passes through a 5/1 micron absolute bag. Just one bag filter.... Then on to the truck it goes. Of course there is a filter on the system on the truck, but that's more of a safety net than anything, all the real filtering is done in the heating and settling process.

Do you know how tiny the orifices are inside of a powerstroke injector? I do. I've done my homework and my system is working. I've had to replace exactly ZERO parts of my factory truck due to an issue with my WVO system.

I hope your track record is as good with the way you like to point fingers. If you want to knock someone else's setup, at least get some facts to do so.

I'm done with this thread, if anyone wants to have a discussion about WVO, you know where to get in touch with me. :c:

Just as an reminder:

2 micron is the technical limit to measure particle size. Any filtration in this size must be done by a centrifugal filter to be effective as Mdub already mentioned.

Just to give you an idea about the size: bacteria like the dangerous cholera bacteria are in the 0.2 to 5 micron size.

Filters
 

Call these people and ask them to help you with their "Bio-Tek line. You're going to have to decide on length, diameter and the thread diameter.

Cim-Tek®Filtration: Petroleum

The ultimate filter is THIS centrifuge, which will take care of any particulates ANS water.............. WVO Designs - Engineering Waste Oil Solutions

And don't listen to all these naysayers because they've never ran any oil and you're not gonna get anything positive out of them.

BOTTOM LINE:
1. Filter your used oil to 2 microns, before it goes into your truck's fuel tank and AGAIN at the engine - using an aftermarket screw-on filter.
2. Make every effort to get only clean oil from a known source that's free from water and antifreeze.
3. Make up a draw tube from 1" PVC, so it draws 3" off the bottom of their tank or drums AND FILTER IT TO 10 MICRONS WHEN YOU'RE PUMPING!!
4th and probably most important - you HAVE to have an Airdog , Raptor, or FASS transfer pump on your truck to pump the thicker oil.
5. I also use a quart of Lucas injector cleaner in every 75 gallon tank I run. Look around - you can find it for about $8.50 if you look hard enough. It's good, cheap insurance.

All else is totally BS. 540 gallons and going strong!!!

A while back I saw a post saying a wvo system could be built for about $450. anyone remember this. I want to setup a system for year round use but need a place to source the parts.

I can't imagine building a quality system for that price. Even if you built most of it yourself. The tank alone is going to cost a bit to fab up (needs to be aluminum and needs to be heated) the pump alone is going to be close to that I'd imagine...

that was without a tank and pump.

Well I wouldn't consider it a "system" without those components.

I'm sure you can probably get some fittings and some bio/wvo friendly fuel lines for that cost.

Dave here has a lot of good quality components at good prices. He can probably walk you through building your own system: http://www.veggiegarage.com/

Thanks for the link. I'll either email him or give him a call. I have looked at complete kits but the cost is high and I'd like to go through the trial and error myself anyhow. When I first bought my truck a year ago the prior owner suggested for me to install an air dog or fass system on it. He never did say why but the lift pump was running for about 20+ seconds. I think I'm going to hook back up the OEM system (after looking at the lift pump) and use my air dog for wvo so I already have the pump. I have burned some wmo but I found the wmo source makes a big difference. Regular wmo has a high Btu so I got a slight increase in milage. About 1.2 mpg. I burned some synthetic oil and the mileage went the opposite way. A little worse than pump diesel. Because of the additives added to synthetic oil to keep it from breaking down I'm thinking it does not burn well. Plus I got a little worried about carbon buildup in the engine. It also smoked like hell but I'm running a straight exhaust without a cat so slightly smokes anyhow. The way I look at it wvo is the way to go. I'd rather filter it instead of dealing with wmo.

I'm glad I went the WVO way. Believe me, even with a top of the line kit, there is still trial and error involved. Beware of which pump you buy, most off the shelf FASS or AD units are not going to like pumping WVO. Give Dave a call and talk it over with him, he's done more conversions than anyone I know. He used a V3 vegistroke as his base for his system on his 12V cummins. Pretty smart guy.

Do you have a good source for WVO? What about filtration? My advice would be to build the filtration unit first and start collecting oil. That's a huge first step and will really tell you if you're up to doing this. You will have to play around getting the oil clean. Then once you've done that, you can start piecing together your system. By the time you get your system up and running, you should have a healthy supply of filtered WVO by then as well and can start burning it right away. :c:

Good advice. I had a wvo source but the restaurant closed so I have to find a new one. I did find another restaurant that said I can pull as much wvo out of their tank as long as I don't make a mess. I pulled a sample and the wvo was sour so I'm holding off until the tank gets emptied. For filtering I have two 55 gallon drums, a gear pump, 1/4 hp motor, 3/4 hp motor, and I'm working on setting up the heating on the drums. I was going to try and get a cheap centrifuge. I'll take your advice and hold off on the truck install until I get the wvo filter system setup. I have about 70 gallons of wvo that needs to be filtered in storage. I'm just need to get filter system up and running. What advice do you have for a filter system? Do you think I can forgo the filter sox and use just a centrifuge? Seems like if the centrifuge will do it all I can save on the cost of the socks not to mention the mess I'd make.

Centrifuge is probably the best way, but also the most expensive starting off. I did a frybrid still, there's a sticky at the top of the page with pictures and details. It was dirty cheap for me to get going, and will still filter VERY well, just more time consuming than a centrifuge. I have to rely on heat and gravity to get it filtered for the most part, then pass it through a bag filter on it's way to my tank. It only uses a single 1" clear water pump from norther tool. I probably only have about $100 into the filtering system (your price will vary based on how resourceful you can be!).

I was thinking centrifuge because I already have 1/4 and 3/4 hp electric motors and I just got my hands on a brass gear pump. Where's that link for your frybird? Can't seem to locate it

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Okay I found it. It would help if I scrolled to the top of the page

Using WVO for fuel is bad, dont do it.
But what would I know....:s: