904cc Yanmar Injection Pump Tuning
 

I have recently purchased a 2011 Polaris Ranger with the 904cc Yanmar Diesel. I am planning to turbo this motor for a lil more performance and giddy-up. I have already acquired the turbo but my problem is tuning the fuel side. The pump looks very similar to a P-pump but does not offer similar adjustments for more fuel. So my question is can I just tune the pump? Or am I going to need to have my injectors honed and hope that solves the fuel issue?

Any information on this motor is appreciated.

Can you get the pump number? and a pic?

Your polaris is way to new for this? Are you almost at the end of the warrantee? But if your going to modify it. You might want to try purchasing a technician manual for it, and learn everything you can on it. try talking to a tech that works on them? or try this forum I just checked it out they talk about the ranger but I seen no info on the diesel. Polaris Ranger Club LLC This forum has info, and I am sure somebody on here can help you.

Yea its new but thats never stopped me before. New is just a base for a bad ass build in my opinion. lol. As far as talking to someone the technicians at the dealer I bought it from are polaris techs, not diesel techs. So they didnt have any info on it. Infact they told me I was better off doing my own service on it rather then bringing it into them. And I searched online but found nothing. So that is why I am here. I am hopeing someone with some experience on this motor is on this site and can lend some info.


I will see if I can get some info of the pump directly tomorrow and some pics of the the motor and pump.

thats the truth too

Oh and a note on the torque... I have already completely sheered a rear axle shaft in half, blew out the rear diff, and bend a front axle shaft to the point that it destroyed the CV joint.

I think its got a little more toque than it can handle.

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but ya I have a Buddie that is into these things let me run this by him and I will get back to ya

As new as these polaris diesels are. I would find a service manual on the power-plant from Yanmar. That way you could learn where to turn the fuel up. especially if they have a blown view of the pump, it will put in perspective befor you actually start tearing into it. When you figure it out you will be schooling the next set of members on here! I herd that those Rangers are selling well. so there is going to be another niche in the diesel performance industry. I need to patten my thoughts before another person capitalizes over me again. What type of turbo are you planning on using?

I've tryed to find more info on the motor. Not sure where to look.

As far as the turbo I got an Older Air Research Garrett turbo. I'll get some pics up of that soon.

So does anyone have any info on tuning this pump? I'd really like to know if Im gonna have to have my injectors honed or not.

Bump...

Nothing on a Yanmar?

Ok, reading this post has just about talked me out of buying one of these.
I emailed you, but thought I would ask hear as others that read this may want to know.

HOW did you shear the rear shaft and blow the rear diff and bend the front shaft?
Jumping 10 trucks? All broke at one time? all broke at different times? Is this thing built that badly? Inquiring minds want to know. :humm:

Robbie, dont misunderstand me... I love this Ranger. It has far out performed when me and everyone around expected it to fail. I push this thing FAR past what it was designed for. BUT thats because while I have the factory warranty I am going to use it and abuse it. I have pulled full blown mud trucks on 2.5tons out of some serious holes with the Ranger. As well as pulled a broken down bronco on 40" bogger about 2miles through sugar sand. I've loaded it with 6 people and plowed through some deep trenches of mud with it. And never had a problem. It was just my shear stupidity when i broke the axle. I was climbing up the side of a tree with it locked in 4x4 and the front tires slipped. I slid down the tree and the front bumper got caught in a knot sticking out of the side of the tree. I then tryed to climb back up the tree and off of it. BUT my right rear tire started digging and then started hopping. And we all know that when you start getting traction hop that things break. And when that went it tore up the diff. So it wasnt so much failure on Polaris's part as much as it was me just beating the hell out of it. PLUS the ranger stock axles have never been anything to brag about. Im planning to run new Catvos axles when my warranty is up anyways. The front axle bent when I was snatching on a jeep. I didnt know the snatch rope was 60' long and with a 30' run at it I put a real hurtin on the ranger when I ran outta rope. So to the best of my knowledge thats when the front axle bent. But it took a little while to notice it and by that time the CV had already been destroyed.

The ONLY gripe I have about the ranger is the poor radiator design. As soon as it gets muddy you have nothing but over heating problems. Now that may just be a problem down here in FL with this shitty Peet Muck that we have. But I am always having over heating problems because of it. I will probably relocate the radiator as well when I do the turbo.

Thanks for the update on the broken parts
 

You are far tougher on it then I would ever be. I just want a side by side my wife and i can ride togeather when working on our little farm. The bed is perfect for hauling stuff around our 80 acres. Going diesel because I have diesel and if bad stuff ever happens, I'll have 100 gallons to run my tractor and polaris on.
I don't think I'd ever try to pull a vehicle out with it.

I'm back to buying one, should have one in a month or so.

thanks a bunch for the update. I'll keep checking for your posts. I want to follow your progress, thou I can't imagine that I would ever put a turbo on it.

Robbin:tu:

Yea you will not be disappointed. The diesel is nice cuz I swear by diesel and the ranger by far is the most versatile machine. So it works out great. But like you said, I am far tougher on it then im sure most people are. Thats why I am turboing it. I want a lil more giddy up and want it to black smoke like a diesel. I'll keep you posted as things change.

I know this is an old thread, but I happened to stumble across it and couldn't help responding.

This is a 3TNM72. 3 cylinders, 72mm bore. They're a durable little motor, and quiet as can be for a mechanical diesel. The thing to keep in mind with this motor is it's an IDI engine, so it's fueling and breathing capabilities are somewhat limited when compared to its DI cousins.

There's at least one company out there that offers a turbo kit for this engine. Its a fairly complete kit from what I've seen (reading through the installation instructions anyway).

If you don't want to spend that kind of money, a worthwhile upgrade is an EGT gauge.... Cause one can turn the fuel up pretty easy on these little motors.

If there's any interest in learning how to tweak a little, let me know and we'll keep the thread going.

I'm getting the ppe kit installed on mine

Page 7 https://www.pacificp.com/pdf/PolarisRangerTurbo_v10.pdf

Yanmar MC pump
 

I hate to bump a 3 year old thread, but it's still on the first page so here goes.

I have a Polaris Ranger diesel and a Polaris Brutus, both with the Yanmar 3TNM72 Minimax engine. I've put an IHI RHF3 turbo on the Brutus and turned up the fuel following the instructions for the PPE Ranger turbo kit, by turning the Rated Fuel Delivery screw out 1.25 turns. I'm making 6-7 psi boost and seeing 850 degrees max EGT at turbine inlet. I'm not sure it's making as much power as it could. I'm currently running 1.5 turns out on the screw. If I go 2 turns out I get lots of black smoke and no increase in EGT. Why am I seeing black smoke but not higher EGT? Should I be shooting for ~1200 EGT for maximum safe power?

I have the Yanmar service manual for the engine, it doesn't have any info on fuel adjustments but it does say it's an MC pump. I have a manual for the MP pump which looks similar. It talks about a Torque Fuel Delivery adjustment which is an integral part of the Rated Fuel Delivery screw. Can anyone explain exactly what this adjustment does and how it differs from the Rated Fuel Delivery adjustment? The manual shows how to set them up on a test bench, but no explanation of the actual functions.

Any help greatly appreciated.

I've attached a picture of the fuel delivery limit screw from the MC pump. The tip of the screw is spring loaded. The set screw on the outside end adjusts the travel of the plunger. This is what they are calling the Torque Fuel Delivery adjustment. I believe the main screw sets the basic fuel limit and the plunger allows additional fuel under load by allowing the internal linkage to compress the plunger. On my engine the screw was bottomed out from the factory, there was no plunger travel. I backed it out to allow a few mm of travel and didn't notice any difference. Anyone have any more info on this?