Fuel Plate Video
 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6722640631105426699&q=Cummins+12+valve&total=79&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=8

:U:

I think I might be slower in the head after lisening to him. Nice video we need more vids of the basics like that. I likd how they demonstrated the hp increase in the end.

if anyone could get a vidio on how to replace the governor spring from stock to a 4000GSK for a 94 cummins 12v that would be awsome

Not a Video but this may help
CAUTION:If you intend to operate the engine over 3200 rpm, you should replace the engine valve springs with a heavy-duty type. If you do not have heavy-duty exhaust springs installed please call PDR for further instructions.
Estimated completion time: (First time installer) 1.5 hours
Things you will need to complete this project:
1. 7/16" deep socket
2. 3/8" drive and ratchet
3. 10mm six point socket, 3/8" drive w/extensions
4. 8mm, 6-point 1/4" or 3/8" drive socket
5. Pliers and Pencil magnet
6. Medium to large flat-blade screwdriver
7. Slim, long, flat-blade screwdriver
8. Vernier Calipers
9. 8mm Allen wrench
10. 7/8" Socket
11. Tape or clean towel to block openings
12. Fender covers (optional)
Cleanliness counts! Clean engine to keep debris and foreign objects from entering engine.
1. READ all the directions before beginning the installation.
2. Set parking brake. Automatic transmissions must be in park, manual transmissions must be in neutral.
3. Protect paint and batteries with covering
4. Using a 7/16" deep socket, loosen lower clamp on upper intake connection hose and slide lower clamp off of hose and down the steel tube out of the way.
5. Remove the six bolts holding the air intake connection and dipstick tube in place using a 10mm 6-point socket. The bolts are different lengths. They must be replaced in the correct position.
6. Remove intake manifold connection and hose as a unit. The gasket must not be damaged in this process. It can be reused but must be replaced if damaged.
7. Cover the air tube and manifold openings to keep foreign objects from falling into them.
8. There are three bolts holding the fuel shutoff solenoid & bracket to the injection pump, two on top of the AFC housing & one at the back of the pump. Remove these three bolts & the hairpin that holds the solenoid rod to the pump linkage.
9. After removing solenoid you will see a plug nut, using a 7/8" socket, loosen this plug nut. You will have to hold the linkage over to one side so you can get enough clearance to totally remove plug nut.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image.../gov_spr01.jpg 10. Bar (roll) the engine over until the governor spring adjusting nut comes into view, center it in the hole. Note the position and mark it.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image.../gov_spr02.jpg 11. Using the Vernier calipers, measure the distance from the top of the governor stud to the top of the governor spring adjusting nut. Record this measurement for the reassembling.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image.../gov_spr03.jpg 12. Remove the spring retainer and all inner springs (leave large spring in place). Remove inner spring seat assembly at the bottom of the bore and remove any shims that are installed. Check for shims stuck to the springs or seats. Do not reinstall shims as are they are no longer required. Use only the springs contained in your new kit. Do not reuse any of your original springs other than the large spring left in place at the beginning of this step.
13. Install new lower spring seat and springs. Install upper spring seat and adjusting nut. Adjust to the measurement noted at disassembly.
14. Bar engine over until opposite governor spring set is in position. Repeat steps 12-13.
15. Reinstall plugnut, fuel solenoid and bracket.
16. Remove air tube and manifold coverings.
17. Reinstall intake manifold connection and hose.

18. Start engine and check idle speed. A variation of plus or minus 50-60 RPM is normal and we recommend that this be adjusted using the idle screw. Go for a test drive and enjoy!



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Here's the dust cover that needs to be removed to access the governor springs

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image.../gov_spr04.jpg Once the dust cover is removed you'll need to turn the motor over till a set of springs is lined up perfectly in the opening ... there are 2 sets of springs they are mounted opposite of each other

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image.../gov_spr05.jpg Here's how you can turn the engine over

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image.../gov_spr06.jpg Here's A Good Look at one of the Governor Springs when its lined up

wow that helped alot better than those damn instructions the kit came with i have a fealling it will be a pain in the but to do

Its a piece of cake. be sure to keep track how many turns the retainers are on exactly. And its easier to use the alternator nut to turn the engine over. I think its a 7/8 socket and go backwards..

I have a stock fuel plate on my 98 12v 3500 auto tranny. Just had my P7100 pump rebuilt. I would like to get a little more power out of it. My question is, does the stock fuel plate have those slots so it can be slid forward a little or do i need to go purchase an aftermarket plate?

They took a #5 plate out and put a #8 plate in and it increased hp? Some people should just go back to fixing lawnmowers.

i was thinking the same thing. i was like thats not a stock plate. what a handy-tard