Getting Full Throttle Out of Your VE Pump
 

It seems odd to me (and almost anyone else) that you don't have full throttle swing on most of the VE pumps straight from the factory. So after a day of sipping on my favorite beverage and staring at my grinder I said... Why not!

So hang on as we try not to tear up the throttle linkage on my pump all in the search for more fuel!

I'm gonna start by saying this is not for the weak at heart... At all... You will be grinding on part of the pump and you wont be able to go back without buying new parts!

After cranking in my full power screw to the verge of runaway when you would snap the throttle it would hang there for a while before slowly coming down and the idle was about 1000 RPMS with the spring removed. It needs to idle warm at around 750-800.


Attachment 54588

I started by taking off the throttle linkage by removing the nut circled in green. After you take the top piece of the throttle linkage off you need to look at the how the bottom piece is attached to the shaft. You will see that it has a star shaped hole in it that indexes it to the throttle shaft. Note the position. Now take it off and rotate it one notch clockwise, Then grind off the tabs circled in red, teh make contact with the fuel line circled in blue before you get full travel. Then reassemble everything, put your return spring back on the linkage and start it up. Chances are you idle is gonna be REAL high! my truck idled about 2300 RPM :D

This is the point of no return. Take the linkage back off and go get your grinder and start cutting!

You need to start removing material

The linkage will make contact with the pump housing and that is your new idle adjustment. I cant say this enough. You can remove material (lower idle) but you cant put it back!!! After taking off a little put it back on and start the truck to check the idle. Keep repeating this till it gets down to that 750-800 mark

Here is about what I had to take off. The red line to the right shows were it was. The red line to the left is the tab we ground off earlier.
Attachment 54589

Here is how the linkage sits against the pump.
Attachment 54590

After you get the idle were it is you will notice a few things. First there will not be enough swing with the throttle pedal to achieve full throttle. All you need to do to fix this is swap the return spring and the linkage adjustment were they attach to the linkage. So the adjustment rod goes in the hole closest to the pump (just use two wrench's to remove it) and the spring goes in the hole farthest from he pump. Look at the first picture in this thread and the third to see the difference. Next when you go to hook the throttle linkage adjustment back up you might notice that it is to short. You need to loosen the jam nuts and rotate the shaft to lengthen it. Then remember how I was telling you that the throttle would hang for a few seconds before slowly coming down? No longer. You snap the throttle and it returns to idle right away! DO NOT SNAP THE THROTTLE WHEN THE IDLE IS HIGH!!!

Thats it! Get in and enjoy your new found fuel. I picked up a solid 3-4psi of boost and can drag my fuel pressure down to 0psi now with about half throttle. Before it would only get down to about 3psi at WOT. There is ALOT more smoke but it is easy to control. Also you will note the throttle is alot touchier.

ENJOY!!

Good write up Bobby. :U:

I thought switching the throttle linkage and the spring gave you full sweep of the throttle arm. What does all this grinding do compared to just swapping the spring and linkage?

if youpay close attention when you are messing with the linkage you will notice that it will hit the fuel line. Grinding the arm alittle will give it some more travel before it hit. Your clearancing it. If you take the arm off and clock it one tooth you will get even more travel and fuel. but it is gonna idle REAL high. That is when you need to start grinding on the idle stop to get the idle down.

heck it helps most trucks just to remove the throttle stop (piece of allthread that threads through 2 ears on the pump but has no use what so ever)......i took mine out and that made a world of difference, i also removed my entire idle screw and just let the linkage rest against the housing but if i would of went a step further and done all this im sure it would of helped immensely.....my truck also idled a little high cause of not doing this mod and let me tell you with no power brakes (vaccum system needs work) that plays hell in traffic on your right foot.....

Reckon i can get the truck in the shop and do this without the wife findin out? she kinda cringes when i get powertools out to work on "her" truck. :w2:

lol lol

Good write up. Very interesting. So it does make quite a bit of difference:humm: Faint of heart,:humm: never been one of those either:humm:

Sure You Can!

Bobby, after you grind off the back piece that hits the idle screw do you still have an idle adjustment is does that no longer exist and your stuck with what you've got. The reason I ask is the last time I tweaked my full power screw I had a lil bit of a high idle and needed to adjust it

You can lower the idle by grinding more off, if yuo want to raise the idle... Well break out the welder! :D

Also jason as Logan said above remove teh high idle screw (looks just like the idle screw except on drivers side of the pump. Just take it out and toss it in the garbage!

only screw i had in mine was the fuel screw....the idle and speed screws were taken out...hopefully my truck will be running alot better with the fresh injection and lift pumps and filter.....Kurt should be done with it.....

If you grind too much off you could probably put the idle screw back in and put a nut,a washer or two and another locking nut to hold the washers on there.:pca1:

Very True!

or couldnt you tighten up the linkage to make it idle higher

You could but that messes with he full travel again.

actually bobby; today i relocated my idle adjustment to the front side of the throttle lever and decided to index my throttle while i was at it; i believe you jumped two teeth; since i relocated my idle adjust i just went ahead and trimmed the whole back side of the lever off. i jumped one tooth and left my linkage where it was at factory; started the truck up and it was around 1500 rpm and full sweep of the throttle would make the lever hit the AFC housing, jump it another tooth (i never started it at this setting) but the throttle lever would actually bottom out internally as it was clearing the AFC housing by 1/8 to a 1/4 inch. i opted for a one notch adjust seeing as i dont have any major fuel mods or the 366 spring; i figure an extra notch will come in due time. also need a better boost gauge. no idea how hard i'm pushing the H!C anymore... before it looked like it pegged the gauge but now the needle slams the stop something fierce... gotta be over 30 psi now plus timing

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either way man; thanks for the post otherwise idk if i'd feel ballsy enough to do this mod :bombin: so far everything i've done to this truck fuel wise has been free and it keep sgetting closer and closer to the driveability of a p-pump truck. i dont even have to roll into the throttle anymore to maintain speed goin up a hill... i hate being broke the 366 and an airdog would be mighty sweet

if its hitting you need to take more off!

i believe it's hitting internally... say with a one notch index i'm able to sweep 110* (bs numbers) with the 2 notch index the pump bottoms out internally and you only get 90* (bs number) is the throttle shaft hitting the AFC lever and this where grinding the AFC lever comes to play?

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i clear everything with 1/16th clearance at the least; i'll get a pic of the new throttle set-up

i see in dp magazine how they put a washer on the throttle cable to get full throttle. does that help any?

sure does; there's alot of extra slack in the cable and the pedal sits a little low (close to the floorboard) if you pull the cable out and the throttle pedal up thats all your extra slack. i personally stacked washers behind the factory retainer; its abit heavy and causes the cable to droop; but you really dont notice. if i remember correctly your talking about the copper washer they crimp over the wire end? that works too :U:

If it's hitting internally then thats all it can do!

If you have slack then yes. This write up has more to do with getting full internal travel out of the pump. The dimmensions of teh stock lever wont allow that.

ok. where might i find one of those washers to crimp? lowes ore home depot i suppose? also what the heck is it called?:humm:

I think its just a crimp for some electrical wire.

ok thanks

i stacked 5 washers behind the retainer on the pedal and switched the holes in the lever, it came CLOSE to the fuel line but it wouldnt hit. i actually need to throw one more washer in the mix.

and yeah i figured if it was hitting internally there arent any modes for that :D although i do need that 366 spring and an upgraded fuel system. i'm pretty sure i'm taxing the stock fuel system as is. good nows is; its got a brand new LP. bad nes is it's still a diaphragm style. i like the low pressure piston pump idea but it's 1/2 the price of an airdog

looks like i need to get a fuel pressure guage for my truck, this is great stuff to know!!!!!:U::U::U::U::U:

any pics of the washer set up on the cable..

no pictures as of right now; but i can deffinately take afew and disect the cable lock... its easy enough to figure out; just a pain when it's the first time

i tinkered with my pedal to day. took off the to nuts to the go pedal bracket on the floor board. stuck washers behind that. lifted it up about a 1/2 inch.
then cut a nut with a hack saw to put behind the rubber washer on the cable. cremped it back. . took up about 1/4 of an inch.. so now i can hit full throttle. and still have a hair before it bottems out to the floor. so is there a way to bend the ear on the pump. for more max fuel.. be patient with me i am learnen.. about the ve

no bending needed; indexing the throttle and then grinding is the next step.